PC Products PC-7 Epoxy Adhesive Paste, Two-Part Heavy Duty, 1/2lb in Two Cans, Charcoal Gray 87770

This is a much more affordable replacement for JB Weld. It has a long 1 hour working time. It does take a good 24 hours to cure solidly. The first hour it is still malleable by using a alcohol to smooth out the surface. It cures rock hard if you mix it in the right proportions and is mixed thoroughly. It sands very easily. I use this for creating fillets on high powered rocket fins, both plywood or fiberglass. Its easy to work with. It does not run/slide like thinner epoxies which allows you to apply it to multiple locations on your project at the same time. It is pretty thick to mix but is a great product overall. It is super strong. Use tape to mask off the area you don't want it to come in contact with.

Used this stuff to repair a pitted, rusty bulkhead door. Cleaned the rust to shiny bare metal (important!) with a grinder then smeared the epoxy on with a putty knife. Worked great. I highly recommend wearing disposable gloves cuz this stuff is thick and sticky. 50/50 mix makes measuring simple. Use a stiff knife on a board or other stiff surface. A paper cup won’t cut it! Mix well. Hardens in 24 hours if 70 degrees.

I thought I'd already had left a positive review for this, but Amazon keeps asking me to do one so here it is. Pros/Cons: I used this to repair my20 year old vase shaped with a small basin fountain that had developed leaks, and cracks. Also used an easy to cut screen patch (also left a review on that a month ago) that this product enabled me to adhere the screen. Adhesive quality has been great so far, very easy to use with a disposable glove, no tools needed. Important to apply it only after the water has been drained out completely. first and no moisture is left on the area you want to patch. Allow it to dry for two full days to cure before lightly sanding any rough edges. I gently removed the sanding dust with a wet paper towel and then refilled the fountain with water. My fountain had faded from the original dark black color to a fairly light gray over the 20 years in the sunlight. I had assumed the black color of this adhesive would stand out like crazy, but once I started the fountain again it darkened the vase fountain to black again and the product remained exactly the same color as before so it blended very well! Personally, there are no cons, only pros for how I used it and the results! Highly recommend it for small projects!

I used PC7 as a filler to level an uneven tile that had shifted about 1/4 inch lower than the rest. The product worked really well—it's thick, easy to mold into place, and hardens solid. I left it to cure for about 48 hours to ensure maximum strength, and it held up perfectly. Highly recommend for similar leveling or repair jobs. Only down side is sanding after if needed. It leave the finish very rough and may want to paint after

I find a lot of excellent and helpful reviews here that all acknowledge that this is a demanding and challenging material to work with UNLESS you know what you are doing and THEN it is a very strong and long lasting material with many uses. Xylene is practically necessary. The value of being able to clean mixing surfaces and application tools INSTANTLY can't be overstated. This is probably the most difficult mixing I've seen with any material but it always works with the right tools and a little patience and the result is a heavy thick paste that gravity can sag before it fully sets hours later. That elastic strength is why it is one CRITICAL step in many demanding situations. I often like to use a thinner penetrating mixture first and follow it with this before fully cured until almost flush. Then I will usually finish with a finishing mix skim coat. Works great for me. I recommend every handy man or woman that doesn't know this stuff to get some to experiment with. Then you'll know what you're doing and what you can do with it. It lasts for years, even half used. I won't be without some on hand. Note: don't try to work this before it is half cured when you can scrape and carve it beautifully with different tools. Sanding shouldn't be attempted before full cured. Once cured, a lot of rocks wish they were this strong and the bond will be crazy good if you follow the easy steps.

Excellent product - I used this to reattach some stone masonry. Was able to sand once cured. Worked great.

I had a very unusual project. My son has a pet moray eel that is extremely friendly, but needed a home in the aquarium. As you can imagine, a moray eel is not a small pet so the home had to be large and durable. The home is a maze constructed from 4" PVC pipe and many elbows to create tunnels for the eel. There several openings within the maze for the eel to escape or enter the maze. Once the maze was built we wanted to disguise the maze a a rock cliff. Florida base rock (A very porous rock, that is cream in color) seemed like the best choice to make the bottom of the tank and back of the tank look like the ocean floor. The issue is that the what every epoxy we selected to bind the rocks to the PVC would have to hold up to the harsh elements in a saltwater aquarium and the abuse from a moray eel. In addition to being able to bond rock to PVC. I watched a video from a website where another individual used PC-7 to bond rock in his saltwater aquarium. The PC-7 was very easy to work with. It is a two part epoxy. Simply mix can A with can B. It gives you plenty of time to work with the epoxy before it sets. Once set, the bond is permanent. Even the harsh elements of being in saltwater does not influence the bond. The eel loves his new home and darts through the maze like a small fish, even though he is several feet long. The home is very realistic, and as a SCUBA diver, I can say it looks like the bottom of the ocean. I would highly recommend this product to anyone that needs a permanent bond that will hold up through any harsh conditions.

This is not like spot putty or bondo, but it works pretty easily. I bought it knowing the drawbacks but it did okay. I feathered in some kevlar skid plates with it on a canoe before I painted it. It goes on too stiff to tool but a low setting on a heat gun make it smooth and workable. I just cut disposable spreaders out of an empty thick gallon jug and I was able to contort them to the canoe shape and feather it nicely. I know they make a marine grade whit product as well but this is less expensive and I had another task for the leftover product. Fun stuff...I could find many uses for it.