Powerbuilt Front End Vehicle Service Kit, Tie Rod End Puller, Car and Truck Ball Joint Remover, Pitman Arm puller 6 Piece 648626, Black

Good

I used this tool successfully to change the 22-year old upper (and lower) control arm bushings on my 1998 Toyota Tacoma 2wd 5-lug. The tool is designed for older American cars with the "A-arm" style upper control arm with a shaft through the bushings. I took a chance and got lucky one size of the included adaptors fit perfectly for my truck.The quality of the tool is good, better than expected. I torqued on the C-frame pretty hard (with hand tools, no impact) to remove the old factory bushings and it never flexed or deformed. I considered a few cheaper no-name versions but am glad I spent the extra $20 for the Powerbuilt.The C-shaped adaptor that goes around the shaft to push out the bushing was too short to fully remove the Toyota bushing so I cut a section out of an old bushing to stack inside and extend the reach. (See photos.)Note the Toyota design requires removal of the the outside end of the bushing to allow this or any removal tool to fit against the end of the control-arm tube. The factory service manual just says cut. I used an air hammer and chisel to bend up the lip for clearance then cut with a reciprocating saw. That was the most difficult part of the job.Installation was easy. Used the same c-adaptor with the push cup to get the new bushing started. Replaced it with a flat bar to seat the last few millimeters.Bonus - I did not get pictures but I was able to use the adaptors in various combinations to remove and install the lower control arm and strut bar bushings as well, no burning or drilling the bushings. The C-frame was not helpful for the lowers so I used some all-thread and grade-8 hardware to press the bushings out and in, but the included cups and adaptors made this easy with a little head scratching and a couple sockets to get the setups just right. If I had had access to a standard Ball Joint removal kit with a larger collection of adaptors and cups it would have been faster to set up but I was able to make it go right with the included parts.I removed one bushing from the UCA via the caveman method (drilling the rubber, heating with a torch, hammer and punches, lots of swearing) before I found this tool. A couple of hours caveman versus under 10 minutes and no swearing using the tool... I am happy with this purchase even if I don't use it again for years.

Used on my 2005 Odyssey Touring minivan at 265k miles to replace my OEM inner tie rods. Will-update this review w/ any issues. For my Odyssey there's a retention washer bent in-place that has to be unbent before you can slide the wrench on to use.The wrench comes w/ a nice carrying case which is great. 4-star because I wish it was slightly cheaper.

It worked well with the upper control arms on my 83 Lincoln

Ok I used it toady. You do disturb alignment. You have to take 22mm nuts off bolts holding upper control arm on and swing arm out to remove 24mm nuts/washers/press bushings out. You can mark frame and try to mount control back on frame close to original location. Bushings press out from inside out arm. A receiving adapter goes on outside of control arm. It's supposed to sit over/around bushing on control arm(not bushing-it straddles bushing) but bushing was a little bit too big in diameter so it sat a little off center. A adapter goes on the inside to push bushing out. A c clamp w/ a treaded rod pulls the receiver and adaper together via a threaded rod tightened by a 22mm socket. I had to use a 17 inch long gearwrench flex head 1/2 inch ratchet to get enough torque to pop bushings. To press in new bushing,it is the opposite. The bushing is pressed in from the outside using a insert that matches bushing diameter. The other end of c clamp goes inside of arm w/o any attachements.Plenty of krano kroil was used to press out and press in bushings. I discovered that you really have to line insert up w/ bushing during press in and pay attention that it stays centered and doesn't slip to outside. This happened on first bushing and it slipped off bushing bent the metal lip of bushing and put a dent in outside corner of rubber. This was minor and since bushing was half pressed in I recentered insert and pushed it in the rest of the way. It looks ok in. Just a slightly bent lip on one side. The bushing on other side pressed in fine. Removal ,however ,involved the bushing being pressed out of arm but it remained seized on shaft. I removed shaft and put it in a vise. I removed w/ knipex pliers. Tommorow or wednesday i'll do the passenger side of my '99 dakota club cab R/T. Please note that this truck was garage kept w/ 50,000 orignal miles. Tool works well but I wish it would straddle outside of bushing better. I don't like pressing bushing out at a slight angle. I'm having trouble getting the upper control arm remounted. I think I will have to loosen bottom shock mounts so upper arm can be pulled back over the bolts on frame. I got arm back on frame. Brake line wouldn't mount. It was off by a 1/2 inch from the holes in arm.I inadvertently bent brake line swing arm back into position to remount on frame. Brake line got caught. After carefully rebending brake line,it went into place.

really helped doing my ball joints

C3 corvette owners would love this to use on the rear shock mount bolt. Apply's constant pressure while soaking the bolt with lubricant and then it breaks free. Also works when replacing control arm bushings. Great tool!

Works ok on c3 corvette front upper control arms, does not work on front lower control arms