what is the difference between the p4400 and the p4460?

This device, the P4400, will reset all of its timed measurement values to zero if power is lost or the device is unplugged. The P4460 has "non volatile" memory, using a battery to provide the necessary voltage to power the (S)RAM memory, which means that it will not lose the data if power to the 4460 is lost. The P4460 also will let you input the cost per KWH from your provider to calculate the cost to operate the appliance over a week, month and year (assuming that your use is the same during the extrapolated period as it was during the measurement period). For me the data retention feature is well worth the extra $4 since I want to keep track of the energy used by a window air conditioner which will vary by the outdoor temperature, the sun hitting the building, the humidity, etc.

.most of my outlets are 20 amps or more, the killawatt is only 15 amps does that make a difference in calculations, the garage is 40 amp.

This will only plug into a 120 VAC outlet. The standard 120 VAC outlet in almost all homes is only rated 15A continuous duty, but can take more for a second like when a room air conditioner compressor starts up. This is probably following those same rules. If the wiring is 12 gauge or thicker, it can be hooked to a 20 amp breaker even though all of the outlets in the average house are rated 15A, at least in most states. The reality of the matter is that wiring and outlets can always take somewhat more than the ratings and everything is oversized for safety. But is is always considered unsafe to plug in any device that uses more than 15 amps into a typical house outlet. An exception is commercial outlets that fit both home devices and heavier duty commercial device plugs and those outlets are usually rated at 20 amp. Those outlets are more common in businesses and uncommon in homes. An air conditioner or commercial refrigerator that uses more than about 10 continuous amps will normally be a 240 volt appliance and require different type of outlet designed for 240 volts, same is true of typical electric clothes dryer and this device would not adapt to those.

Will this work with two prong (non-grounded) outlets?

Be Careful- defeating a polarized plug can be dangerous. The wide prong is neutral and connected to ground. The narrow prong is "hot" (energized) compared to ground. Some devices such as tools, chargers, and others use polarization to reduce the chance of electrical shock. If the device, such as most lamps, doesn't have a polarized plug then there is no concern, an adapter or extension cord is fine. If a device has a polarized 2 prong plug and you decide to use an adapter anyway, make sure the KillaWatt's plug's small slot on front is aligned with the wall plugs small slot and the larger slot on front aligns with the larger slot on the wall plug to maintain polarity. It is impossible to reliably maintain polarity using an extension cord so I would never attempt it. I would never cut off the ground prong, the blade prongs on the KillaWatt are the same size because the ground prong aligns the correct prongs with the wall plug so they do not need to be different sizes. Once you cut off the ground prong the odds are 50/50 of dangerously reversing the polarity of the plug on the front of the KillaWatt since it may, or may not, be plugged in correctly. Similarly if the wall plug slots are both the same size you are once again at 50/50 odds of plugging the KillaWatt in incorrectly with an adapter making the KillaWatt itself an "adapter" permitting you to plug polarized plugs into unpolarized wall plugs. Once again if the lamp etc doesn't have a polarized plug this is not an issue. (If you want to know more about why polarization makes things safer just ask)

Hi, is this unit able to capture peak current draw? I want to see if my audio amplifier ever gets close to tripping my breaker.

I don't have it but from what I know about it is that you can measure watts for long period of time, So - reset meter, set it to continuously measure watt*hour (WH, watt for 1 hour=60 minutes*60=for 3600 seconds), connect your turned off amp, turn it on and immediately turn it off exactly after 1/2 second. Meter SHOULD show wattage consumed for 1/2 second because they say it measures power FEW TIMES PER Second (though still will be measuring after amp will be turned off, but it is ALMOST not consuming power) - that will be your surge power - multiply it by 3600 and by 2 (because 3600 for hour and for whole 1 sec it would be twice higher) and divide it on 115, or whatever voltage will be during measurements (put voltmeter to measure voltage, or just measure voltage before starting test, though voltage can can change fast). And you will get average current for first 1/2 sec. If you manage to turn it off exactly after 1/4 sec (but don't forget to multiply measured WattHour by 3600 and by 4, because 3600 higher for 1 hour and for whole 1 sec it would be 4 times higher) then measuring current surge will be more accurate. This calculation imitates WattHours consumed by amp as if it worked with average current equal to surge current for 1 hour, and that is why you divide those WattHours on voltage to get average current equal to surge current (which actually happened only during part of first second). So, if meter accurate enough to measure small power consumption then all this will work.But remember: amp MAY not like it, though SHOULD Tolerate such thing - anyway, don't blame me if something happens to it. I would do that myself, i believe this is not unusual for amp.

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Descripción

🔌 Power Up Your Savings!

TRACK YOUR ENERGY - Monitor usage by day, week, month, or year.
COST SAVING INSIGHTS - Calculate expenses effortlessly.
PRECISION MONITORING - Accurate readings within 0.2-2% range.
USER FRIENDLY INTERFACE - Easy-to-read LCD screen for quick insights.
VERSATILE COMPATIBILITY - Works seamlessly with AC 115V appliances.

The P3P4400 Kill A Watt Electricity Usage Monitor is a portable device designed to help you track and manage your electrical consumption. With its large LCD display, it provides real-time data on energy usage, costs, and efficiency for your appliances, ensuring you stay informed and save on your electricity bills.

Presupuesto

Manufacturer	P3
Part Number	P4400
Item Weight	5.6 ounces
Product Dimensions	8.4 x 2.1 x 6.1 inches
Item model number	LGP4400
Batteries	1 CR123A batteries required.
Is Discontinued By Manufacturer	No
Size	Original version
Color	No Color
Style	1 Pack - Model P4400
Material	Other
Pattern	Monitor
Power Source	air-powered
Voltage	115 Volts
Amperage Capacity	15 Amps
Item Package Quantity	1
Number Of Pieces	1
Display Style	LCD
Certification	No
Special Features	Portable
Usage	personal
Included Components	usage monitor
Batteries Included?	No
Batteries Required?	No
Warranty Description	1 Year Limited

Reseñas

A**S

Good product, do the expected work.

This product works as expected. I purchased this unit to make an analisis about parasit power consumption in my electronic appliances in home.I discover the following:- the lcd requires 180 ~ 230 watts. After going to standby or shutdown, the tv use 60 watts for 3 minutes. This is to cool down the lcd lamp for protection (fans and additional circuit works for this time). Can be a mistake if I remove the AC cable power or enterely shutdown the tv without allow this process to finish. Good discover. After this 3 minutes, the standby mode on the monitor only requires 05. to 1w.- my motorola cable system requires the same ammount of power (27 ~ 30 watts) no matter if this unit is ON or off!!!!... all the time is fully powered (because have an internal hard drive). But I believe (wrong!) this unit must save about 50% if is off.. but no!!!!- the blackberry / sony ericson chargers do not drain any power (0W) from AC if the phone itself is not connected. I DON't need to disconect this chargers from the outlets.- My APC Smart UPS 1500 drain 30 WATTS! even when is completely turned off!!!Is better to disconnect this unit from the ac cable!!! amazing!...- My pc (dimension 9150) is a power hungry pc. Because have pentium D (first edition) who requires a lot of power. This pc requires 230 watts but when I play Command Conquer (3D real time strategy) and because I have a HD2900 ATI High Definition card who requires 650 watts PSU. Interesting: when I play the game the power rise from 230 to 300~320 watts!!!!This unit is very usefull to understand how the electronic systems works and if are energy efficient and how you must manage this units to save power and money.Highly recommended, is cheap and you can check your ac freq and exact voltage (i have 128 volts from 127 expected in the ac line)......enjoy and sorry my english

9.11.2008

D**E

Does the job and build quality seems okay

This meter works as expected. I used it to test both standby usage of appliances and devices (TV's not turned on, laptop chargers not plugged in, etc.) and active appliance usage (electric kettle that draws about 12 amps, Microwave, plugged in computer/monitors). The build seems reasonable, but not sure if it will hold up to repeated plug-unplug cycles. So far it has not been an issue.

21.07.2025

N**T

Extremely Useful

Don't bother buying the more expensive models of the Kill-A-Watt. The P3 model is more than enough. It will give you how many watts your device is drawing, as well as the number of amps, number of volts (at the outlet), and frequency (60 hertz). It also keeps track of the total number of kilowatts hours your device has used during the length of time you have been monitoring the device. To calculate how many kilowatt hours your device will use in a month, you just need a bit of simple math:(Watts/1000) x (number of hours device is turned on per day) x (31 days) = Kilowatt hours per monthExample for a 100 watt light bulb that is left on continuously for a month:(100/1000) x 24 x 31 = 74.4 kwh per monthNote that a kilowatt is 1000 watts and 1 kilowatt hour is the equivalent of ten 100 watt light bulbs burning for 1 hour.Electricity is billed in kilowatt hours so you can find out how much each kilowatt hour costs by contacting your electric company or looking on their website. Your electric bill should tell you how many kilowatt hours you used in a given month. It is easy to calculate how many tons of CO2 your electricity use produces. The EPA website estimates 6.8956 x 10-4 metric tons of CO2 per Kilowatt hour. I pay for 100% wind power through my utility, which only adds about $1.80 per month to my electric bill and we use a lot of electricity (about 1200 kwh per month). Part of this large number is the fact the landlord installed an electric water heater (a gas water heater would be much more efficient).I finally ordered a P3 Kill-A-Watt and wish I had ordered one 10 years ago because it would have paid for itself many times over. If you check various items in your home, you will be surprised at how much electricity things use. Many electrical devices draw 2 to 5 watts or more when they are turned off but left plugged in! When you count how many things you have plugged in in you home, this adds up. I now unplug things I am not using.One of the biggest energy wasters is the common light bulb, which wastes 98% of its energy as unwanted heat. For comparison, I have an old style Sony 32 inch TV (picture tube, not flat panel) that draws 150 watts. A single reading lamp with a common 150 watt bulb uses the same amount of electricity as this large TV. You are much better off using compact fluorescent bulbs which use FAR LESS electricity. Amazon sells GE compact florescent 100 watt (equivalent) bulbs that actually use only 26 watts. (Type "compact fluorescent 100 watt" into Amazon search). The compact florescent GE 60 watt (equivalent) bulbs actually use only 13 watts. These bulbs screw right into your existing lamps and light fixtures and will pay for themselves many times over. The downside of compact florescent bulbs is that they contain a significant amount of mercury (about 5 grams). There are special cleanup procedures you should follow if you accidentally break one inside--open a window, do NOT vacuum--see the EPA's "Cleaning Up a Broken CFL" article for the full procedure [...]Because compact florescent bulbs contain mercury, they must not be disposed of in regular trash. Call your local municipality to learn how to dispose of items that contain mercury--many municipalities have recycling programs for mercury containing items. A much better alternative to compact florescent bulbs are LED bulbs (do not contain mercury) which are a new technology and consequently expensive at the moment but prices will come down with time.A final note on the Kill-A-Watt regarding computer power supplies. I build computers and, prior to owning a Kill-A-Watt, ended up buying much larger (and more expensive) power supplies than I really needed because of some misleading information on the web. For example, the computer I am typing this on with a good Intel CPU and an expensive video card draws 130 watts at idle and 270 watts with both CPU and video card fully loaded (running Prime95 and 3DMark simultaneously). Unfortunately, I put a 750 watt power supply in this computer, which was totally unnecessary. It is important to purchase a high quality power supply, but you definitely don't need a 750 watt power supply for a computer that draws 270 watts at full load.

20.09.2012

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