KOOBOOK 1Pcs 1.44MB 3.5" Floppy Drive Connector 34 PIN 34P to USB Cable Adapter PCB Board with Power Cable

Oh this product works SOOO good btw don't buy the usb floppy disks buy this and buy a floppy from eBay or an e-waste store or a thrift store and extract it and use it trust me please this won't disappoint make sure the solder is good and if not resolder it watch videos if you don't know how but don't not get this, I'm being repetitive

I built a new i9 Windows 11 PC in an old ATX case and decided to keep the old floppy drive that was in there. Since my new Gigabyte MB has no connector for floppy drives, I decided to try this floppy to USB adapter. I read all of the reviews here, so the first thing I did upon receiving the item was secure the USB cord to the module to make sure there would be no added stress on the fragile glue-covered solder connections. I carefully plugged the board into my floppy drive, making sure it was not upside down or offset. Then I plugged the USB cord into an internal USB 3.2 Gen 1 port on the motherboard via a USB 3.0 to 19-pin MB adapter cable. My floppy drive was already powered from the power supply, so I did not use the short power cable that came with this adapter. Now I have Floppy Disk Drive A in Windows and it works as good it ever did 30 yeas ago. Be aware that if the floppy disk is not write-protected, any modern version of Windows will create the hidden System Volume Information directory on the floppy disk. If you don't want Windows to modify your disk, be sure to write-lock it before inserting it. I only wish I could change the drive letter, but this adapter adds the drive to Windows as the internal drive A, which cannot be mapped to a different letter. I would have preferred that the drive appear in Windows like any other USB drive, which can be mapped to any drive letter. That's not a big issue though. Overall I'm happy to be able to read my old floppies on my new PC now.

This product arrived promptly, was packaged appropriately, and was sloppily built. While inspecting it, I noticed that the #34 pin was bent (see photo). All the other pins are 90° but this one isn't. It looked like it was making contact & soldered, though, so I proceeded with the installation. By the way, there are no instructions. The power cable loops back to whatever 3.5" drive you're using. In my case, it was a salvaged 25-year old Panasonic drive.I plugged it into my lab laptop & the light flickered. So it powers the drive from USB fine. I inserted a diskette. The light stayed solid. And... after several minutes of circling rings on the screen & various soft sounds, I got a message that it couldn't read the disk. I'll try another drive -- I have a couple more in the "junkyard" -- and amend this review as necessary. But this is a quickie build job. Even if it worked, I'm not sure I could rate it more than a "3." A simple plastic box with strain relief would be a major improvement, but then I wouldn't have seen the bent pin.

I installed an old floppy disk in an old tower with new build (SATA drives). I have been working with older OS's (USB bootables & VirtualBox) and wanted it for boot disks. I have a USB external floppy, but this was partly nostalgic and the drive was from this old case. This adapter works well for that.Here is what I noted:1) No instructions. A brief instruction card would have been good. I had hooked a connector from the power supply to the board before figuring out the jumper from the CCA was for providing power to the drive.2) This adapter makes the drive stick back further into the case. The power connector made it longer yet. I had to bend the connector to keep the wire out of my cooling fan. Either a straight connector, or just hardwire the power jumper to the board would be better. Especially if you have a big processor fan that makes funny noises if a wire sticks in it.3) The logic connector does not have a key. This is not unusual as some old ribbon cables also did not have it. The CCA is marked for pins numbers, so check your drive.4) There is no lock for the logic connector. There are some through holes in the board that a small zip tie can be fed through to secure both the connector to the drive and tie up cables.5) I have a PCIe USB card I had in an old machine that I moved to this new one. It has a USB connector at the back of the board that worked well for this adapter. Otherwise I would have had to route a USB extension cable outside the case, or see if there is an adapter available to one of the USB ports inside the case.6) My old drive sits there and 'ticks' (searching) if there is no floppy disk in it. I suspect it may be my drive, so I'll just keep a blank disk in it rather than buying a new one.All told, this could be improved, but it does what I wanted.Hope this helps anyone interested in a little retro looking build.

You just simply connect the device to the connector on your floppy drive, connect the power cable between the device and the drive and you're good to go. The drive is powered over USB, no external power needed. Worked with my 3.5" 1.44 MB drive and was able to read/write 1.44 MB and 720 KB disks.I do wish the connector on the device had a notch to help properly connect it to the drive. Pin 1 (where the red stripe is on a normal floppy cable) is marked, but you should still check against a picture of a floppy cable to make sure you connect it the right way. Generally, pin 1 is facing the power connector on the drive (usually with the notch down, pin 1 is on the left), but just double check before connecting it.Personally, I am using this inside of a machine, not externally. I have the floppy drive screwed into the case, this device connected to the drive (I am using my computer's PSU to power the drive instead of the device) and the USB connected to an internal USB port. It works perfectly in Windows 10 :-)