EternaBond RoofSeal White 4" x50' MicroSealant UV Stable RV Roof Seal Repair Tape | 35 mil Total Thickness - EB-RW040-50R - One-Step Durable, Waterproof and Airtight Sealant

Had a minor leak on my RV roof and could see it was were there was slight cracking of the sealant around the air conditioner. I used this roofing tape and the leak is gone. Just be aware this stuff is so good that once you put it down it will not come up so make sure it is where you want it because once it is put down you are not going to pull it up and move it but that is what makes this tape so good and solves the leak because it does have such a strong sealant. It is very solid and thick tape and looks great once applied.

I found this tape is an excellent solution to repair holes or tears in the rubber membrane roof covering of our travel trailer. I have tried other caulking materials with only fair results. When we got a bad tear after driving the trailer under a low-hanging branch at the campground, I repaired the tear with this tape. Is was so impressed with it that I ordered more to replace the caulking seal on the ends of the roof where it meets the aluminum siding. I'd twice had leaks in this area. After re-sealing with this tape, all is nice and dry.This tape is about the most sticky stuff I've ever worked with, but the adhesion is not fully activated until pressure is applied. This makes it a little easily to work with than the world's most sticky material. You peel the clear film off the gray side of the tape to expose the adhesive putty. When applying, know first that any air bubbles that get trapped under the tape cannot be pushed out - that's how strong the adhesion.Before application, I scrubbed the area with acetone on a rag.When applying to anything but a tiny area, I found that it works very well to have another person align the long piece of tape while I would slowly peel away the clear film and simultaneously applied pressure in a way to assure all of the air is forced out from under the tape. When applied, the go over the tape with any kind of pressure. The pressure can be hand pressure, or a roller, but a small roller is very handy for large seams. If you repair area is larger than 3 inches wide, just overlap successive strips of tape with 1 inch of overlap. This tape sticks well to Dicor lap sealant caulk, but you can get a smoother result by removing most of the old caulking material. I removed a thick layer of old caulk with by careful application of a wire brush spinning in a 4-inch hand grinder. The wire brush didn't seem to damage the rubber membrane when used with care.This tape will not stick to silicone, so any seams or joints previously repaired with silicone caulk need to be cleaned carefully of the old silicone.I think this tape would be great for seams in many devices or constructions that you wanted to make water-proof.

This tape is strong & sticks extremely well. This is a very good tape for camper seams.

Awesome stuff! Available in different sizes. Great value. Just the right thickness. Easy to apply.Looks good and works great.

WORKS GOOD

Great for sealing up the cracks in my camper. You get a ton of material which is worth the money. Perfect thickness so it easily fits under plastic trim. Cuts easily with scissors and it matches my white paint close enough so it doesn't stick out like a sore thumb.

UPDATE: It is March 2018. The eternabond has been on my trailer for about two years now and all the areas where I applied eternabond are holding up very well. No breaches or leaks. I have raised this rating from 4 to 5 stars because of how practical this stuff is.I have a 1999 Northwood Nash travel trailer. It has no leaks that I know of but I can see there are some parts of the roof, notably the front and rear seams and around the front and back corners that look problematic.I researched various ways to deal with this. Most pros would probably say to take the seam apart, etc., and reseal it. That's not realistic for me right now. There are no current leaks and I am looking to shore up these problematic old caulk jobs that look about ready to fail along the front and rear seams and near the gutter.I first looked at a lot of pictures at what other people had done with Eternabond tape. That helped. There was also a youtube video made by the Eternabond company about how to apply it. That also helped because it gave me the idea to use the utility knife. And to use my fingers instead of the roller. The guy in the Eternabond video uses his fingers to apply pressure (not the roller) and he uses a utility knife to cut the tape. There is not a lot of great info out there about using it but there are a lot of pictures and some decent youtube videos. None address the issue of lancing as well as they should in my opinion.Something else about the utility knife is important which is that it can be used to easily lance any air bubbles or "tents" that occur has you apply the Eternabond. Using you fingers to smoothly apply pressure helps to identify these air pockets that can be lanced so that the microsealant can fully apply. The Eternabond website says to use a pin to pop air bubbles and describes the procedure for what to do for "tenting" and I found that also very helpful. As it shows that where it tents or bubbles, the important thing is only to lance it and smooth it over and apply another layer if necessary or to make it prettier.I am totally new to this and could be doing it wrong so I'm just going to get to the pictures ...First I noticed the trouble spot by the back rear where the caulking was breaking down and this looked like an area where it was possible for water to pool. So I made this area a priority. It is around the gutter and the gutter and the rubber strip along the gutter are in very good shape so I didn't want to cover them up.I prepared and primed the area. (Disclosure: I have some Eternaprime brand primer on order but until then I decided to prime it the old fashioned way.) So I washed the area thoroughly with dishsoap until it was about as clean as it gets with dishsoap. then I marked the area lightly where I would be applying the tape and used a little sandpaper to rough up the area. then I quickly applied and wiped off some acetone over the area. this is especially good for priming the old caulk. it is good to expose a "sticky" layer of the old caulk which if you scrape or prime some away, does appear. Note that the acetone will remove the paint also off your trailer. then I pre-meaured the strips I was going to use and planned exactly where I would place them and pre-cut the strips. I took my time and used no strips longer than 8 inches. I find that more than that is difficult to handle and to focus on applying pressure on every little bit.When I applied the eternabond tape, I pretty much put it above where I wanted it (with back peeled off) and let it kind of fall into place by gravity as I guided it laying it as flat as possible. then when it was flat, I went about applying pressure from the middle out and working out all the tents and air bubbles and I pressed on the sealant. It was very helpful to have a clean and sharp utility knife to lance tents and air bubbles. You have to really be careful with that utility knife because remember if you go just a little bit too much, you will cut into your rubber roof. Nevertheless, I used one because it worked the best.*UPDATE: I got the eternaprime primer and it was by far the best way to prime the area for the tape.This is not a how to guide because I am not sure if I am doing this correctly but by using some logic and watching some videos about how to use this, it seems pretty good. In areas where I had to lance tents or air bubbles and more tape was needed, I simply applied more tape over that area as Eternabond says to do on their website.I used:pair of nice, sharp scissors to cut the tape (clean scissors as necessary with acetone if they get gunked)utility knife (clean with acetone if it gets gunked)acetone as described abovedishsoap as described abovemy fingers to press down to ensure surface adherence (not the roller)On purpose here I did not use the tape over the black rubber or the gutter because both are in good condition with no breaches so I wanted to leave them as-is.I plan to do the three other corners of the trailer and all along the front and rear seams although for going along the entire seam, I am going to wait for the Eternaprime. I wanted to get going with this corner just to see if it would be a viable method to deal with the deteriorating caulk around this area.