Waterlox Original, Sealer/Finish, 1qt. Net 946 ml

I love this stuff. I’ve been using this and the satin finish on my butcher block counter and shelves and they’re turning out great. The amount of coats you need and time in between coats is a bit of a hop in the hiney, but worth it for the ease of application and overall finish. I’ve been finding the need to LIGHTLY sand with 400 grit in between each coat, but that’s about it. Just used an old t-shirt to apply it and threw it away when done.

IF you apply it decently, it is easy to apply to obtain a great look. I've used such "tung" oils for many years. I even did a waterlox finish on my new hardwood floors years back, (I wouldn't do it again as unless your floors are absolutely flat, then it can puddle). It has held up admirably well on the floors.Yes, it is not a nice smell, because of the petroleum distillates. But if you can apply in a place where the smell won't bother you for a few days, it is fine. (dispose of rags carefully).Sand to 180 or so. Apply the finish liberally! keep it refreshed and wet for 15 minutes or so, then wipe off moat of the finish. You don't want to let it dry completely with wet spots on it. This first coat will saturate pretty deeply. Apply additional coats, and you dont have to let it absorb so deeply. The 2nd, 3rd and even 4th coat doesn't change much. But on the 5th coat, you start to get a really deep finish. The 5th or 6th coat, apply the finish with something like a 500 or so grit paper, sanding it basically while wet. When you have sanded it this way, then wipe off the wet. Now you should have a professional looking finish! Is it waterproof? No, it is not, but it IS actually more durable than many other finishes, even to water. It is for interior work though. Shellac for instance is another beautiful finish, and is also easily renovated. But Shellac is not good if any alcohol (as in a drink) is spilled on it.

Made my own bathroom countertop from a live edge slab of birch and needed a good, waterproof sealer. Waterlox was the only one I found that actually said it is absorbed in the wood to make it waterproof. Looks great!

Applied 4 coats to my birch butcher block countertops. Waiting 24 hours between coats is kind of a pain in the butt, but the results were worth it. My counter is totally waterproof and it looks awesome. Resin modified ting oil semi gloss is what I used. I will use again.

The media could not be loaded. I applied this on our new butcher block countertops and it’s stunning. I was really worried about how water resistant it would be but after a few coats I’m not worried at all. It cleans easily. None of the finish pulled up after applying painters tape to it. We opted to go with the satin finish over top of this. This product applies much thinner than the satin finish and does require several coats. It was easy to get a uniform amount on. The smell is bad so just be mindful to work in a well ventilated area for application. We ended up buying more than we needed and couldn’t return the extra so just purchase on the lighter end and get more as needed. Less than 1 can finished several shelves (36 inches) and 90 sq feet of counter top with several coats.

Used for butcher block countertop in a camper Van. Hands down best product I ever used on a counter top.

Used it on our butcher block counter. It looks and feels great.

I love Waterlox. It creates a great looking but durable finish. This item is the sealer. I use it in conjunction with Waterlox Tung Oil Varnish in my work. The sealer is thinner than the varnish so it will penetrate the wood a little more. You can build a film with the sealer, but the Waterlox varnishes (in matte, satin or gloss) have more body so you can build a little body faster.I start with this sealer. I put on a lot at first and keep adding more until it seems the wood won't absorb any more, then wipe off most of the excess. The next day you can wipe on a second coat, or start applying coats of Waterlox's companion varnishes.If I opt for a oil finish look I would stick with the sealer for a 2nd coat. Then sand with 320 grit until the surface is uniform. Then apply a final coat extremely thin. The wiping pad should not be wet. If you see wiping marks, you're too wet.As you can tell I enjoy finishing with Waterlox. And I'm pleased with the results.Waterlox creates a polymer as it dries on exposure to oxygen. Unfortunately the air in a partly used container will create a dry crust on top or turns some or all the oil into a jelly. I use Stop Loss Bags where I can squeeze all the air out before tightening the cap. The expensive finish stays fresh forever.