UTG New Gen 4-Point Locking Deluxe M14/M1A Scope Mount , Black

Fits tightly.

I would first like to say that I read a lot of reviews on this. I was worried because some people mentioned concerns about quality. However this thing works awesome. Pretty dang solid especially for the price. Designed well. It has 4 points of contact and when secured correctly is the proverbial rock of Gibraltar. Instructions are clear and easy to follow. For those who were complaining about it coming lose... there was an incredible invention made about 50 years ago... called.... blue loctite.. does wonders for keeping things solid and immovable. I put some of the smurf goo on it and has lasted 1000 rounds without budging or letting my scope slip even a 1/4 inch out of zero. I am confident it will last until take it off. Fantastic quality. So if you are on the fence, get it. Try it out. Cheaper than paying $200 for the next best option. Quit sweating and get it. If you have a problem, send it back to Amazon oooooorrrrr.... use the lifetime warranty and get one from the company themselves. Again key take aways. Use some loctite.

I gave this 4-stars, but was tempted to give it three. The ad reads, in part, “Installs easily, no gunsmithing required;” I am a retired engineer and owned a gunsmithing shop for 35-years. This is not a product that you unbox and bolt together – at least not for me. 1. The receiver threads for the scope mount on the M1A are 12 x 34 (possibly 36). I did not have that now obsolete SAE standard tap on hand, even back in the 1950s it was avoided as the entire #12 series was being phased out of unified product design. Anyhow, when the M1A is being Parkerized, some of that coating settles on the threads and the screw supplied with scope mount will probably not want to go in. I applied thread cutting fluid and cranked the screw in to “snug”. Then backed off and repeated. It is tempting to torque the screw due to its big, slotted head – DON'T DO THAT! Just kind of work it in and out until it seats as normally – be patient. 2. The instructions state: “Drive out the clip guide with a roll pin punch.” First, be sure to use a roll pin punch, because a drive pin punch will mushroom the pin and you'll really be in the soup. On most M1As I've seen, the pin needs to be driven out from the bottom since there is more room for the punch to be guided in the hole. Most cases where I needed to remove the clip guide I needed to tap the actual dove tailed guide from side-to-side to unseat any corrosion or Parkerizing bleed. Again, be patient – tap the pin, tap the guide left and right, repeat. Use a plastic headed hammer or a block of wood to protect the finish. 3. Drive out the stripper clip with a plastic punch and hammer. This may take a while since it is a line-to-line, usually tight fit. 4. A word about alignment. If the finished and assembled mount is not in alignment with the bore, you may be a victim of “extrusion warp.” I think this part is extruded and, if so, note that the beginning of an extrusion and the end of the extrusion bar will likely be warped – usually due to heat distortion. If my assumption is correct and this is not a cast part, the you may be at the mercy of the QA inspector who packed your scope mount. I am not absolutely sure about this, but have had enough experience with this phenomenon to be suspicious. Mine was fine. All said and done, after 1-hour in my Gunsmith shop, I have a very nice looking, stable and (seemingly) strong scope mount for a very reasonable price. I just wanted to caution you kitchen table gunsmiths, this may not be a walk in the park for you, Hopefully, you'll do just fine, but I felt morally bound to write this and the frustrations you may (possibly) have. Addendum from yesterday: All rifles are going to be different. Some older ones may not present any install problems. The one I explained (above) was brand new. But what I wanted to say is that the UTG is well designed and thought out. Once you get it secured you should be happy with a quality product.

Easy install on my M-14 and it works great!

The product itself is great, finish is good for the price. Mounts very solid to my SA-NM. However as previously stated the instructions are cryptic at best. I ended up on youtube to get some help. In addition to the Allen wrenches included you will need duct tape, a bench vice, a 3/32 punch, a rubber mallet and a hammer. Throw some duct tape on the vice jaws to save your rifle finish. Drop the magazine and clear the rifle to ensure safety. Remove the stock and set it aside. Clamp the rifle reciever in the vice upside down, barrel pointing at the floor. Use the punch to tap the pin holding the rifles stripper clip guide in place out. To make tapping it out easier, I angled the rifle so that the position of the pin channel would be vertical. You'll be working at it from the interior of the rifle. The pin will pop out the top of the guide body. Not much force is needed but it isn't a bad idea to cover the top of the guide with a loose strip of tape to catch the pin when it comes out. Once the pin is out, you'll slide the guide off to the left of the rifle from the perspective of if you were looking from the butt stock to the front sight. I needed the rubber mallet to "motivate" the guide off as it was on fairly tight. Now the rifle is ready for the scope mount to be installed. Remove the mount from its packaging along with the bag of hardware. Use the larger Allen wrench to remove the screw holding the dove tail guide to the mount. Slide the dove tail guide into the slot from where you removed the vlip guide and line the hole up with the hole the pin was in. Now slide the dovetail into the guide and use the allen screw to secure the mount to the guide. Thread the thumbscrew on the side of the mount into the hole in the left side of the receiver and screw it down. Mount your scope and rings and zero the rifle. Hope this helps and clarifies things.

This mount is strongly made but the side screw and bridge dimensions are off and will need mods to work right. First, there is no way the bridge will clear the handguard. I am only using the scope for ammo testing so I just removed the handguard temporararly. For a permanent install you will have to mill the bottom front of the bridge back about another 3/16". My side screw was very soft and too short. Only about two threads engaged and they pulled out easily. I cut the shoulder back about .1" and it was ok, but this screw should be hardened. All this being said, this is a serviceable mount at a very cheap price when installed properly. Unfortunately the scant instructions can't cover the needed mods and don't really guide a tyro through a regular installation well. Unless you are handy and own some machine tools, you might want to give this a miss. For me, it will serve well for occasional use.

Works well and looks nice, went on easily. The instructions aren't the best though and wanted to drop some tips: -Removing your stock stripper clip guide is the hardest part. There is a little pin that holds it to the receiver. The instructions say to punch it out with a 3/32nds punch bottom to top. However the punch is a little too big and the pin is REALLY in there. I broke two punches trying to remove it. Also, it should be driven out top to bottom, if you can. If yours is stuck like mine, I simply punched out the guide itself with the pin still in. Those roll pins are very soft and mine sheared easily when I just punched the guide out. When you punch the guide out, drive it from right to left (op rod side to bolt catch side). This was way easier and any punch will work really. -Use loctite!!! -Beware that you may have to modify the mount if you are running an aftermarket handguard, especially one with rails. I have a tri-rail cover so I cut a small section of the front off to make it fit and used flat black paint to restore the look. I didn't need the extra 2-3 rail slots. Hard to beat for the price!

The good: Price seemed too good to be true, but I couldn’t justify $250+ on a steel mount from another manufacturer. Instructions and all the parts that should be there were there. Hardest part was removing the clip guide, but once that was done it was installed in minutes. Now the bad part. Once I was ready to mount a scope, I noticed the rail was visibly misaligned with the iron sights. Using a rod laid in the Picatinny groove, it was off at the front sight by nearly a quarter inch. No matter how much monkeying I tried with it, I knew even if I got it aligned, it would never hold zero. It blows my mind that with today’s tolerances and machining, a mount made for a specific rifle could be so far off spec. I guess I’m stuck spending the big money to find another, but at least I’ll know it will work. Worst part is I never even mounted an optic to it, and I can’t in good conscience sell it to someone else.