Siraya TechFast ABS-Like 3D Printer Resin 405nm UV-Curing Non-Brittle High Precision 3D Printing Liquid Standard Photopolymer Resin for 8K Capable LCD DLP 3D Printing (Navy Grey, 1kg)

Best resin I have used since I've started printing, especially for the price. With my printed 10mm figures, this resin has good flexibility, preventing the small parts from snapping off, and works well when fine detail is needed.

The transparency is spot on, a good value for the money, has good adhesion to the build plate, and has a good texture and feel to the finished prints.

I'm in the middle of an engineering project (basically a custom RC plane), and needed some small, precise parts that still need to take decently significant loads. Of course print quality and resolution is a more a matter of what printer you have, but I can say this stuff printed fantastically on my Photon Mono S with the settings recommended by Siraya Tech (you can find a spreadsheet on their website). The parts that I got are incredibly strong. I know this is an ABS-like filament, but I've legitimately gotten better performance out of these than actual ABS from an FDM printer. That is most likely because printing orientation does not matter nearly as much, so the parts turn out mostly isotropic (equal strength in all directions). I'll describe some of the cases I used this for below.MY USE CASES:One of the parts was a stepper motor gear (28BYJ-48) that needed to deal with up to 0.1N*m of torque. I can tell after a lot of use, the section that meshes with the stepper pin has worn down from perfectly tight, to having maybe 3-5 degrees of slack, but it's still perfectly usable.Many of the parts require linkages between them, so I printed 5mm pins. In my case, I had to reduce the size of the pins to about 95% to avoid clearance issues, but once they were in place the pins had very little friction while still providing very tight joints. Additionally, those pins could handle a surprising amount of shear force. I tested with a 5kg weight, so statically that's about 2.5MPa, but I also drop tested with that rig, so it could have easily reached 25MPa at one point.CLEANING:Specifically regarding this resin, you have to empty and clean your vat within 2 days if you don't plan on printing again. This stuff will separate into layers in about that time and becomes harder to clean off the vat. Also, water curing has yielded good results for me.If you've never resin printed before this part is for you, otherwise move along:Cleaning the prints is quite a hassle. They come out coated in liquid uncured resin which is, in the case of this resin, definitely a nasty skin irritant and potentially toxic if ingested (most resins are). You'll need LOTS of isopropyl or denatured alcohol, at least like 2 or 3 tubs or large tupperware containers, lots of paper towels, definitely more gloves than your printer comes with, and some way to get rid of the fumes. The alcohol is smelly enough, but this resin is definitely nasty stuff to be around. You have to be very careful not to get it on your skin or other surfaces (as it is quite drippy off the printer). With this resin, I got the best results by cleaning with alcohol from a spray bottle, then rinsing in water for 30 seconds, and then submerging in a cleaner tub of water before leaving in the sun (for 45 minutes) or shining with a bright UV light (1 minute or more, flipping the part with tweezers). I tend to keep one tupperware container for the alcohol cleaning process, which is very thick with uncured resin, one container for dirty rinse water, and one for clean water (and a bonus extra container to place all my contaminated tools and paper towels). I can usually run with this setup for several prints without changing out the liquids, which is nice because you CANNOT wash this stuff down the drain (unless you want even more micro-plastics in the ocean), and it absolutely has to be cured before you dispose of it. I typically save my 2-liter bottles and old mouthwash bottles, dump everything into those, and leave them out in the sun for a day before putting in the trash.CONCLUSION:If you can deal with the hassle of cleaning and PROPERLY discarding of the waste, then this resin produces results that you simply cannot get with other printing methods. Sure, FDM printing is less toxic and usually easier to get larger prints with, but the precision and speed of resin printing is unmatched. Usually that comes at the cost of poor physical proteries, but with this resin, you can get really small, precise parts with fantastic physical properties.

Best resin for models I've used! I can't complain but when you open a bottle use it don't let it sit for months after you open it. The sooner you use it the better tge results will be.

Great resin, easy to work with. Shows great detail even when using a standard fast profile.

Great for detail! I used this a lot for miniatures and the detail is always spot on. The down side is the small parts are brittle and can snap off easily. For larger models i don't have this issue.

Out of all the resins I have tried this one is the most reliable. Mix it with some Tenacious and you can't go wrong.

Using Siraya Tech fast grey with my Uniformation GK2 and Phrozen Sonic Mini 8kS and it’s printing perfectly 100% of the time.It cleans very easily and the surfaces have a beautiful look after curingThe only thing to be aware of is, it’s very thin and it drips off the build plate very easily. I find if I let it sit for about 15-20 minutes before taking it off the build plate it’ll drain.