Flexible Bendable Ceiling Curtain Track, Curved Ceiling Track for Curtains, Room Divider Ceiling Track Rail System 16.5 FT / 5 Meters

I needed a flexible track to install on an existing antique cast iron elevator roof used at my pub's entry way. The hardware easily screwed into existing holes on the metal roof...(without these pre-drilled existing holes, installation would have been a nightmare). The flexible track pops into the hardware easily. I took the hooks off of metal drapery rings and placed them in the sliding holes to attach to my curtains to form a wind barrier upon entry. I spray painting the entire set up a hammered metal color because the white was too noticeable. That would be my recommendation to the company, would be to please add a dark color of this product as well. Also, some instructions would be nice although its pretty straight forward. We shall see how long this product lasts, but I think it will stand the test of time.

As like many others, my family is now using Zoom every week. We had a cluttered background opposite our tv which we like to use as our screen. We didn’t have any place for a regular curtain rod. This track fixed the problem and was easy to install. We also got curtain hooks and some cheap queen sheets in a neutral color and it works wonderfully. We leave them pulled back until we need and then just slide them into place.The only tips I can give are to unroll and allow the track to relax before even trying to bend it straight. It comes coiled fairly tightly and needs a bit of time to be willing to straighten fully. It does do curves great which we have at one end so if you need to go around something it should be fine. Second tip is to use all the clips to hold it to the ceiling. Measure your length carefully making sure you don’t cut it short, then divide your length by 16 so you can have them evenly spaced with one at each end.

Overall I like this, it's a much more stable solution than the metal rings that only attach in a couple places. Plus, I was able to get a really symmetrical, smooth run in an oval shape that matches my tub almost exactly... no kinks or wavy sections!Pros: the metal band inside makes it much easier to do curves and make it symmetrical. It's inexpensive.Cons: The hardware isn't the greatest, but it works. The wall anchors aren't very good, they're made for thicker material than our typical sheet rock so they can spin if you're not careful. When butting 2 ends together to make a circle they should have added a joint connector. As others noted, the screw heads block the spring clip, but there's an easy fix for that.Here's how I did it. I'm sure there are other ways, maybe some that are easier, but since I'd never worked with this before I wanted to ensure that it hung properly with smooth, symmetrical curves.1 Let the track come to room temperature. Lay it out on a FLAT floor, with the arch rising above the floor. Use books or light chair legs to hold it down. Using a hair dryer, move it back and forth over a 2' section at a time, as it warms it will lay flatter. It takes maybe 1-2 minutes per 2' section. When it's all pretty flat, let it stay there a few hours or more. If there are still areas that arne't flat or have little kinks go over it again with the hair dryer until it's pretty flat. When mine was done there were still a couple areas where it arched about 1" above the floor, but that was close enough.2 Using a plumb line, hold it on the ceiling so the line touches the outer edge of the tub. Make about 20 marks or so on the ceiling... the more the better. Try to make them symmetrical so a mark on one side is mirrored by a mark on the other side in roughly the same place. On my tub the outer edge is about 3" wider than the inside edge... so having the track match the outer edge means the liner will be 3" outside the inner wall of the tub, so it will slant inwards and will cling better to the inside of the tub and will billow a bit less.3. Using a piece of string, carefully measure the outer edge of the tub to get the circumference. Just get close, the final track length will be a little off from that.4. Add a couple feet to that measurement, and cut the track using a hacksaw. I trimmed it to exact length when it almost up, using a dremel and a cutting wheel.5. On all the brackets, on the hole that is covered by the spring clip, drill out the hole so it's jsut a tiny bit larger... I used a 3/16" drill bit. This will allow the screw head to clear the spring clip.6. Figure out where your brackets will go, and mark them about 12" apart, no more than 40 cm. Again, try to make your bracket marks symmetrical. I decided my track ends would butt together in the midpoint of the tub on the side that people step into. There, and only there, mark holes for 2 brackets... each one about 1/2" away from the midpoint. So you'll have 2 brackets just 1" apart to tightly hold the butt ends together. Now drill a 3/16" hole for the wall anchors for JUST ONE OF THOSE BRACKETS. You'll do the other one last. Tap the wall anchors in carefully with a hammer. Attach the bracket so that the hole closest to the spring clip lines up with your wall anchor and screw it in. Notice the 2nd screw will be inside the track, and the track will be just about 1/8"-1/4" inside your marks... close enough.7. Now install 3 more brackets... one at each end, and another at the midpoint opposite where you determined your butt joint will be.8. Now drill just ONE hole for the other brackets, the hole closest the spring clip. If you anchor both holes now, you may have problems with the angle of the bracket on curves. My method takes longer and is trickier, but I didn't have to redrill a single hole.9. Attach the rest of the brackets, using jsut the one screw. I ended up doing 3 brackets at each end of the tub, and 3 along the far long side, and 4 along the entry side (1 more because of the 2 at the butt joint).10. Starting at the butt joint, clip one end in, lining up the cut end with your midpoint mark. Get this exact. Then keep working your way around the track.11. The key to clipping it in is to insert the track into the slots in the metal first. Pull back the clip with a pair of pliers, or a flat blade screwdriver carefully slipped in the crack... then twist the track inward a little (toward the center of the tub) until it snaps. Some you have to fiddle with... on some I had to carefully grab the center of the track with pliers to twist it. Careful though, you can easily chew up the track.12. A helper can hold the excess track in position... or jsut tie a string to the butt end bracket and make a big loop, to keep the excess track from flopping around.13. At first, I just put the track in the metal slots and didn't clip it... it held enough for me to "dry fit" it and see how it was shaping up. In one problem spot I used a piece of tape to help hold it. This allowed me to adjust the track as needed, sliding the track until my curves and straight runs were good. But note that it probably won't match your marks exactly... there's a natural bending radius to it, and I opted to use that which resulted in smoother curves, rather than making it conform exactly to my tub's outline. There's a lot of trial and error here... take your time. But if you marked everything symmetrically, you'll find that a few millimeters of sliding the track will give you smooth runs without kinks.14. Mark the cut point on the other end exactly. Don't cut it yet.15. Once your track is how you want it, mark the 2nd hole on each bracket and install a wall anchor for each one. To do that, you can either pull the whole track down easily since it's not fully clipped, or just work in place, which is what I did; just carefully twist the track a little to release it from the metal slots, rotate the bracket out of the way, push the track out of the way, and install the wall anchor. Do this for every bracket... but don't drill for the very last butt joint bracket yet.16. Starting at the butt end bracket, now re-clip the track in place, again being careful to slide it a tiny bit as needed, and watch for smooth runs. On the bracket closest to the "missing butt join bracket", don't clip it yet, but rest it in the slots.17. Check your cut mark at the butt joint, adjsut as needed. Cut it with a dremel tool (wear safety gear!)... cut a tiny bit long at first and gradually take a little off until it's a smooth fit. If you don't have a dremel or similar method to cut it in place, you'll have to take it all down and cut it with a hacksaw, you can do that at step 14. but beware, if you're off a tiny bit you won't have a good butt joint.18. Now install the last bracket. The reason we waited until now is that this is when you can adjust the bracket position for a good, smooth butt joint.That's it!

I spend a ton of time on virtual meetings where I am sharing video.I have a pair of webcams at my desk - one on my monitor and one on my laptop. I found it frustrating that if I stood or sat, shared my laptop of external camera, what others on the meeting saw varied widely. I wanted to project a more professional and consistent view.This simple mechanism gives me a quick and easy way of showing a consistent background (I chose a company logo flag, but it could be anything) to be behind me no matter which camera I share.One final note, I adapted my installation to using magnets instead of the included hardware. In my office, I have a dropped ceiling using metal strips and tiles. The attached pic shows how I have used simple round magnets (4 or 6 per hanger) to anchor it to the metal strips and do so in a non-marring, movable way.

Used to add a privacy curtain to our travel trailer. No Instructions included but very easy to figure out. Only negative is that it was a bit hard to get straight because the track comes coiled up. I noticed that this was the biggest problem for most people who were putting this up, to get around this problem I laid the track out curl side facing the floor, I set table chair legs on the track about every 3 ft. to keep it from curling back up, you may need someone to help with this because you almost need 4 hands to keep it laying flat. When I had it all laid out I got my wife's hair dryer out and on highest heat setting went along the whole length of the track warming the plastic up, as I worked my way along the plastic you could see the curl coming out of the track as it warmed up. This took me about 15 minutes but when I was done I took the chairs off the rail and the track laid completely flat.