CURT55567 Vehicle-Side Custom 4-Pin Trailer Wiring Harness, Fits Select Mazda 3, 6, CX-7, Toyota Camry, Corolla, FJ Cruiser

It was easy to snap in the connections in the trunk area, but keep in mind that you will have to route a thick power wire (included) from the battery terminal back to the powered unit box in the trunk. In my Corolla, it looked daunting. There are no instructions on how to route it other than general statements about keeping it away from moving parts.So I can help you with this. Just go straight back from the battery around the fuse box and along the firewall. Straighten out the wire and tape it along a slim stick to help if you need to. The gaps are narrow. I was able to straighten the wire enough to be able to push it alone. But it took a few tries. Then be sure it goes over the axle and drive stuff. I grabbed the wire under the car at that point and wrapped it once around a non moving frame support — this anchors it and makes it easier to run along the underside of the car.I poked out a rubber plug in the bottom left of the trunk and after wrapping the wire around another frame support to anchor it in the back, I made a hole in the rubber plug and ran the wire through that as a grommet. Then I put the round plug with wire back.I used one zip tie and some duct tape to be sure the wire wouldn’t snag or drag or be vibrating from wind or anything under the car.So doing it this way, there is no need to drill through the car anywhere and it will still be sealed where it enters the trunk. No need for a grommet either.Give yourself a good hour to do this and don’t put the fuse in the red holder thingy by the battery until you are completely done.I saved about $400.00 using a trailer instead of a truck to move and doing this myself. Even using a 5x8 uhaul trailer and making 2 600-mile round trips!! Including gas!!! Totally worth it and everything works perfectly. So for about 90 minutes install and 1 extra day driving = 400.00. And now I can use a trailer whenever I want and not just a bike rack as I was previously doing.Good luck and happy trailering!!

Super high quality and the hook up in the trunk was easy and well tailored.

fit properly and worked, yay

Thank you

With today's car electronics I decided to buy a powered adaptor for my 2017 Camry rather than a less expensive unit that uses the taillight 12v to power the trailer lights as well as the electrical isolation in the event of a trailer wiring issue. The challenge was running the 12v wire from the battery since I did not have a lift. The issue is trying to snake/secure the wire through the no-room engine compartment/firewall and around the suspension and steering components. Yes,, we have lots of moving parts to stay clear of...Then it was simply tying the wire to the metal brake lines to the rear and around the rear suspension. Found a small plugged hole in the trunk to bring the wire up into the trunk. Other issue was the video did not explain how to remove the cargo net tie down posts and only discussed the pop out fasteners for the rear scuff and side panels.

Though Amazon claimed this Curt 55567 trailer wiring harness wouldn't fit my 2018 Mexico-built Mazda 3 hatchback (2.5L engine and manual transmission- but I don't think those two features matter either way), the tail light plugs were all "plug-n-play". The one thing I did differently was rather than run the power wire all the way from the rear (where the module resides) to the vehicle's battery up front, I decided to purchase a small 12V rechargeable battery (think: RC car or similar) and hook it with Anderson power pole plugs, to mate with the module's matching plugs I installed on it. The module doesn't require external power for your vehicle's tail lights, it only requires power to amplify the signals to the trailer's lights. And since I very rarely tow a trailer with my Mazda, using a small rechargeable battery works quite well for my limited needs without having to deal with running the module's power wire to the vehicle's battery. But my solution works great, the unit plugs perfectly to the Mazda's tail lights, and yes, I would recommend this Curt trailer wiring adapter.

I ordered this product on Sunday night and it arrived Wednesday afternoon. The directions are basic and customer support for "curt" was a phone call away and very helpful. I had only one question for customer support, whether I could install the converter on the inside of the vehicle, which I found out I could, and I did. I ran the 4 plug and hot wire down through an existing weather proof grommet, I then zip tied the 4 plug along the hitch itself and ran the hot wire along the top of the frame rail (drivers side) to the battery. After taking off the rear plastic skid plate and pulling the access panels off, it took about 90 minutes to plug everything in and run the hot wire. As some of the other reviews state, make sure you give yourself 30-45 extra minutes to run the hot wire to the battery. Overall, installation was simple and easy to understand. Keep in mind, the way this product was designed, the 4 plug would normally be stored inside the rear of the vehicle until you needed it. When needed, you would run it out the rear door. As stated above, I chose to run it through the all weather rubber grommet so that it is always accessible from the outside of the vehicle, just like if it were factory installed. I would highly recommend this product. Anyone who pays someone else to wire their hitch is simply throwing away money!!

07 FJ cruiser install, watched a video on YouTube how to install, very easy 👍 a tip though, instead of running the hot wire through the frame underneath the vehicle, run the wire through the fire wall under the door sills and the rear side panels where you will probably install the converter unit anyway.