8 Pcs 3" Black Steel Floating Shelf Bracket Blind Shelf Supports - Hidden Brackets for Floating Wood Shelves - Concealed Blind Shelf Support – Screws and Wall Plugs Included

I installed these every couple feet along a drink ledge on a 12 foot long piece of walnut. It turned out really nice and I am happy to not see any brackets under the shelf supporting it. I’ve done a few installations like this now and this one went smoother than any other, despite being the most challenging installation to read on if you want some advice…A quick note of the one bit of weirdness going on here… The holes to mount the bracket to the wall are not aligned with the rod that goes in the shelf so just keep that in mind when you’re choosing your mounting locations. It’s not any issue if you plan for it, but if you drilled your holes in your shelf before you recognize that, you might end up frustratedA half inch diameter bit with a simple drill block to ensure perpendicularity worked fine for making the holes in the shelf. I used painters, tape going up on the front of the bracket and down on the back of the bracket. The back being the part towards the wall. A few inches of painters, tape sticking up is enough to ultimately support the bracket after you position, the shelf, but we’ll get to that in a minute. The second piece of painters, tape stuck on the back of the bracket going down is so that you can insert the bracket into the shelf, rotate it to be in the right position, and then tape the lower piece of tape onto the bottom of the shelf to hold it from rotating. After you’ve done that, with all the brackets, get someone to help you position the shelf against the wall, ensuring that it’s level and use the upper tape to stick to the wall to locate the right position, then remove the tape from the bottom of the shelf. After you do that, with all of the brackets, you can gently slide the shelf away from the wall and the brackets will be stuck to the wall in the right locations. Then it’s just a matter of mounting the brackets to the wall and sliding the shelf back over. In my case, my shelf was 12 feet long, making it pretty cumbersome to handle. So I took a board on either end that was cut to length so that the shelf would be at the right height and use that to temporarily support it which helped a lot.I’m not saying it isn’t still tricky but the other times I’ve done this with shorter and lighter shelves, the alignment hasn’t been as good and it made it very hard to push onto the wall so I think this is a pretty good approach. Maybe if I do this again, I’ll make a little video because that’s always clearer than a write up.

Received very quickly and they appear to be very nice. Need to get working on my shelves

As described. Happy with purchase.

Worked well for a customer that I built these shelfs for

Excelente calidad! Útil para mis tareas!

I used these to build a floating book shelf. The screw holes are a bit wider than the 2x4 studs. So, I just screwed at an angle to make sure and it worked great. These do a great job in supporting very heavy 2x8x84” planks. The bookshelves look amazing and the proxy is sturdy. Highly recommended

For the bulk pack I bought, I shouldn’t complain. The mounting plate spans wider than a 2x4 but its very close. I did not look but if they had a version that had the mounting plate in a vertical situation would have be a better option for me. That mistake rests with me.Overall a very solid product and as long as you aren’t putting a lot of weight on it if it’s only being stuck on drywall with no support behind it. Be careful which wall anchors you choose if you plan to put any weight on these shelf hangers.

These are sturdy and easy to screw into the wall, no problem. But building floating shelves that will sit level and support weight requires more.Making the shelves sit flat and level requires carefully selecting the wood, taking care in the placement of the brackets on the walls, being precise about the placement of the holes in the shelves, and, most critically, keeping those holes very, very straight. If you are handy with a level, good with a drill, and a bit too obsessive with measuring, then you shouldn't have a problem. Otherwise, be prepared to put a bunch of holes in your walls and/or live with some crooked shelves.There is one big issue with these brackets, and its the spacing of the screw holes. They are spread out across the bracket for stability and so the supports don't get in the way of getting the screws in. The problem is that they are just far enough apart that, if centered on a stud, both screws will fail to catch the stud.Putting the screws in at an angle will catch the stud, but this can move the bracket that you so carefully measured and placed. I suppose you could use drywall anchors, but I really don't like those for any more weight than a picture. The best practice is to cut out the drywall, put in a cross beam, redo the drywall, and then attach the bracket to the cross beam.Yeah, I didn't want to do all that either.I ended up lining up the bracket so that one screw could go straight into the stud, then using a super long deck screw at an angle to catch the stud, and going very, very slowly so that the bracket stayed where I wanted it to stay. It worked, but I'm not proud of it.So if you read all that and this still seems like a good idea, then I have a couple of other quick tips.One, you will need long drill bits to bore the holes. I guess 8 inch bits could work, but I like to have a little wiggle room, so I used 10" long bits. The diameter you need for the support to fit snuggly is a 1/2" bit. A twist bit makes a nice clean hole and so does a paddle bit, so the shelf should slide on and off the support with very little resistance if you use a 1/2" bit. I wanted them to be a teeeensy bit tighter, so I used a 3/8" bit paddle bit to bore the hole, then used a 1/2" bit to bore it again (basically just running it in and out real quick). This makes the hole just a little uneven on the inside instead of clean, so it grabs on to the support with more clutch.Second, if you want the things to be truly flush then you will need to chisel out a little cavity for the plate to slide in. I decided to put a couple shelves up without doing that. I used 2X6 for my shelves, and with them that thick, the gap created by the bracket plate is barely noticeable. If you use anything smaller than 2X6, then you will probably need to hide the plates.