Alpine PDX-M6 Mono Power Density Digital Amplifier

I am so impressed with this amp. If you are reading this, you are probably where I was: hoping that there was a decent sub amp that would fit your application, but wary of all the misleading hype. When I had owned a Soundstream Reference 200 about twenty years ago, I realized there was a wide range in quality to be had. In '02, I was searching for an amp for my two Rockford 8" DVC's, and found a Sony ES that was rated at 1000 watts into one ohm, 600 into two and 300 into four. I had learned that when the power output doubles as the load is halved, it is a good sign that an amp has enough headroom to sound good. I was happy with this Sony from their `ES' audiophile line. When I bought a little Subaru Impreza in '03, I decided to stuff three 12's into it from the same Rockford line which had the same fiber-lock cones as their Power series. I bought a Rockford Power series amp rated at 300 into four and 600 into two ohms. I run the voice coils in series and then run the three eight's parallel for a 2 & 2/3 ohm load to the amp. I figured that an amp that doubles output as you cut the load from four to two ohms would put out 450 watts with adequate headroom halfway between two and four ohms. (I have a math degree from Indiana University, Bloomington with a minor in physics.) What a disappointment; I quickly realized that the `gate' meant to protect the amp from excess input was making this - would be awesome - American made behemoth sound like crap, and so I switched in the Sony ES. The Sony was having a `howl' issue that I kept remedying by cleaning the RCA inputs, but recently it had grown bad enough for me to try to send it in to Sony for service. It turned out to be a `bait and switch' routine; they tried to sell me the new version which no longer doubled in power for a ridiculously cheap price. Why bother if it meant losing the sound I was so satisfied with! I have always wanted my car audio to match my home's Conrad Johnson amp and pre-amp running Martin Logan electrostatic speakers, which have the best, fastest, deepest 10's I have ever heard. So, I spent an inordinate amount of time trying to find a replacement for the Sony ES. Along the way, I considered the new Soundtream Reference 500; but when I asked if it would be OK to run it at 2 & 2/3 ohms, they responded to my question as if they did not know (it is also high current stable design similar to the M6, the same output from two to one ohm). My Ref 200 had only lasted a few years, anyway. Out of desperation, I bought into the hype(?) on the Alpine webpage and ordered the M6. I then found a discontinued 1,000 watt Alpine real cheap, but it did not quite double in power from four to two ohms. I figured I might have made a mistake getting the m6 and almost ordered the 1000 watt one also so that I could compare and then dump the looser on ebay. I am so glad I didn't bother. The pulse width modulated (PWM)Alpine PDX-M6 is incredible. The sound is so accurate, that it totally blows the old Sony ES away. I also have (PWM) amps (two Precision Power) running my front, and this M6 matches their sound quality. At first, I wondered why it is so very much louder, more that just 650 (the certificate said 649) compared to 450 watts, then realized it is because the frequency response is so much lower. Burn-In: They don't tell you to in the owners manual, but I agreed with a customer feedback I had read and did as all my home equipment had advised: I burned it in for 6 hours straight at what I thought was 75%. But what is 75%? I just kept turning it up slowly as I drove around all night with my cruise set at 32 MPH. When I tried to set the gain, I ended up resetting my entire system because the sound had changed so much with this new amp. After I bottomed out the gain switched to the high range of inputs and still was not satisfied that I was getting it all, I switched to the low input range and turned it all the way down. I had read issues about the input, that people had purchased the remote to fix them, but I am OK now just using the bass on my head. I had an amp with a maximum input voltage of only two volts, but when I switched rear door speaker amps so that my lowest max input is now 2.5 volts, I was able to switch back to the high range and turn the gain all the way up. So, from what I found, I recommend not being afraid to turn up the gain a whole lot. Another install tip: I found that removing the plastic trim ring was best accomplished by popping out the edge over the inputs first where the two tabs are, and then running a screwdriver under the trim piece to either side to lift it up. Not only is the low frequency extension incredible, but the response is so fast and accurate that listening can be brutal. Some CD's, like the Basement Jaxx "Rooty", are hard to listen to cranked. Pop in a Reggae CD, and it sounds soft and musical. So be warned, this amp will reproduce whatever you feed it - good, bad or ugly. I finally found the maximum output, wherein it just wouldn't get any louder (the `chip' thingy seems to curb the output at max without any audible change in sound), but I COULD NOT GET THIS AMP HOT!!! Near this max it sure does bob the headlights, though. How can it drop the voltage so much more than my old Sony when it only has ~45% more power and is absolutely, incredibly efficient? The only answer I can come up with is that, because of its low frequency extension, it is putting out so much more power. Even though it is so efficient, I am adding what I call the Triple Bypass, extra four gauge wires on the battery and alternator. I already had a one farad capacitor. The Sony ES would dim the lights only the tiniest bit on occasion, but I am satisfied that at least the extra current draw with the M6 is not being wasted. I only own two tracks that would make noise at the seal on my hatchback, which I have built up with strips of cheap sound dampening, but now anything with an aggressive bass tone `blows' it. I added two more layers of vinyl sound dampening material and am awaiting three more sheets to try another strip at the rubber gasket to get it to withstand harder notes. Let me say that again, the volume level is not `blowing the seal' as much as the tonality of the bass riff. This amp is that accurate. With my clothes flapping at Gnarles Barkley's `Transformer,' it won't go 'ghetto' on me; but the Jaxx are constantly `blowing it' at a lower volume. I doubt I can ever get the seal to contain track 10 on `Rooty.' Another issue is that the speaker outputs are not even labeled (+) and (-). They say phase doesn't matter. (I wonder if Alpine even realizes how incredible this product is.) I had checked my system for correct phase long ago (my Eclipse head has a phase switch in its digital signal processor) and was able to clearly tell that my system is indeed in phase as wired. I flipped the speaker wire jack a few times on the M6 when I found a track with a pronounced bass transient, and I have found that in MY system the positive output seems to be the one on the bottom. I recommend you do the same. It makes a big difference. (My home speakers are wired opposite: red to black, because one piece of equipment 'inverts' the signal path.) Do I recommend this amp? Unequivocally!!! I have tended to veer away from the big brands, looking for better sound quality, but this amp rivals all comers. Don't freak out, like I did, when you open the package and find such a small product. Now, I love showing it to people first, before I blow them away, so I can hear them say "Is that all you got?!" At first I was put off by the `chip' running the amp, but now I don't think it's compromising performance. My hope is, with it running so cool, it should last a long time. I feel I owe Alpine so much respect, that I have spent time I do not have to try to convey the extraordinary experience I have had. Wow! A PWM, class D sub amp! What a concept!THIS IS WHY I STUFFED THREE 12'S IN MY LITTLE CAR!

The media could not be loaded.  Crutchfield has 60 day warranty but being under manufacturer warranty of 1 year by only 3 days, I pay to ship back (of course since I didnt buy extended warranty which is expected) and they are going to see if it can be refurbished.Thanks crutchfield, they are a solid company since this is now putting out over 34 volts without rca even connected, fired my type R sub.I had the v power 500 watts pushing a 12 type r b4 switching to this. The extra 100 watts makes a difference. The power adaptor has clips that broke after touching it 2 times but it still sticks in. The 4 gauge size seems a bit small but I have nvx cables so their oversized. I just clipped a little wire off. This thing is great, digital power so instead of ruining a weak electrical system it rolls power consumption back. Connections (besides one clip breaking) are great. Alpine is my choice (a Macintosh amp would be my 1st choice but too expensive) while some still sell this for $450 , the deal at $300 was something I could not pass even though my other amp is less then a year old. And a 4 gauge wire reducer adapter will not fit. I checked various specs on other brands after the one I had didn't fit.

I got this amp 2 weeks ago to power a JL Audio 12W3-2 in a custom sealed box. Instead of using the crappy terminals that come with a sub box, we hardwired Monster 402 XLN Extreme speaker cable to the woofer and used the Alpine connectors for the amp. I don't like boomy bass and don't listen to rap so I was going for SQ, not SPL, and after burning in the new sub for 40 hours, I started tweaking my system. The sub is rated to 500w so I called JL Audio and the Tech told me this amp is a good match at 600 w into 2 ohms. At first the sub seemed UNDER-powered, listless and lifeless, but with good kick drum quality. It just didn't pound enough. Then I tweaked the system with a professional installer and what a difference that made! He ended up turning the gain all the way to max, and I set the sub output in the JVC KW-XR-810 to plus 6 and use the Alpine RUX-KNOB to control the output. We crossed over the Alpine SPR-17S and SPR-69C's at 85 Hz on the JL XD400/4 amp that powers them. Then we used the parametric EQ in the head unit to augment the midbass (plus 2 db at 100hz-medium band) of the Alpine speakers, set the tweeter crossover to minus 3db, and slightly increased frequencies at 1Khz and 10 Khz, narrow band on the parametric EQ. After some experimentation using the Sheffield Drum Track reference DVD, we dialed in the sub, and the rest of the system with tremendous results. The amp provides PLENTY of real hard kick to the drums, and it sounds so clean and lifelike. I'm a professional drummer and I must say I am amazed at the bass quality. I've heard Morel and JL W7 subs that don't sound as good as what I've got in the trunk of a 2007 Impala!! I should add that I Dynamated the doors and trunk completely and then covered the Dynamat with second skin Damplifier Pro and Luxury Liner Pro. Interconnects are Streetwires 7N's. The sub sounds absolutely fantastic powered by the Alpine amp!! I goes DEEP and LOUD without distortion and sounds like a 1000 watt amp!! Congratulations to Alpine for correcting the noise and heat issues with the first series of PDX amps and for producing a tremendous product in such a small but efficient design. I don't even need a cap with this setup. I am in my 50's and listen to progressive rock from the 70's and 80's and the Seconds Out CD from Genesis has some of the best recorded low bass ever, courtesy of Mike Rutherford's Taurus bass pedals which go down to 18hz. My car literally shakes with the energy from this JL/Alpine combo, yet is not boomy or distorted, just powerful and lifelike. No matter how far I turn up the volume, the sound remains clear, detailed, and undistorted. My friend who has the JL W7-13-3 sub is so impressed, he's ditching his JL 1000/1 amp for A PAIR of PDX-M6's (they're stackable); one amp to power each voice coil of his monster sub. He has an extra battery, gi-normous alternator, 4 farad capacitor, "the big three" with 0 gauge wires, etc. and yet my sub sounds BETTER. This is the best Alpine product I have ever owned.

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