ROES-50, 5-Stage Under Sink Reverse Osmosis System, 50 GPD

I’ve had this RO filter for 3 years now. It has served my family great. It’s our main drinking water supply. The water comes out tasting clean and fresh. Our tap water is good, but it’s hard and has a high level of dissolved solids, which is why we decided to get this system in the first place. It has resolved all those issues. I often test the water with a meter that checks the dissolved solids and it always tests close to 0ppm. When it’s closer to 5-10ppm I change the filters. The filters are a bit expensive, but they last a long time. I change them on average every 6-12 months. Depends on the readings I get on my meter. They’re a bit daunting to change the first time, but once you’ve done it a few times it just becomes another chore you can complete in 10-15 minutes. We used to buy large water jugs and this filter allows us to have unlimited filtered drinking water. I also use it for my indoor plants and my fish tank. Both the plants and the fish also appreciate the cleaner water. Install is not super difficult, but it does take some time and patience. For me it was worth it to avoid having to go buy filtered drinking water in large jugs once a week. I’m somewhat handy, but no plumber or anything like that. It’s totally doable for anyone that has some common sense. If you can build ikea furniture, this is very doable too. I recently had a leak in the center housing. After having the system for three years I guess something was bound to break down. I switched the o-rings and filters, but that didn’t fix the leak. I emailed APEC and got a response within hours. They asked for some basic information to verify my purchase and then proceeded to help me with my issue. Within a few exchanges I had the necessary part mailed out to me. I installed it, and now the leak is fixed. It was a bit of a hassle, but I appreciated the quick response, great customer service and overall helpfulness. I felt very supported with this issue. Exactly what you would expect from a company that cares about their product and customer base. Overall I’d say this product is for you if your tap water isn’t the best and you want an option that doesn’t involve lugging large water jugs. The initial investment is hard to swallow at first, but once it’s all connected and set up you appreciate having this filter set up. I find myself drinking more water than before since I know I essentially have an unlimited supply of filtered water. Having a meter that checks dissolved solids in the water takes the guess work out of changing the filters, IMO. It’s an extra purchase, but it’s cheap and easy to use.

This is an absolute must-have during our unfortunate period of being forced to stay home (forced in a sense, but you know what I mean). Given, our install was within the breakroom at the office here, but some of us will be buying into these for our homes as well as it keeps us from having to worry about finding water in stores with so many hoarders selfishly taking all of the bottles for themselves. Why bother when you can have unlimited clean water at home without ever having to leave the house to buy more? For one, the price of this is pretty good for what you get. It is going to cost you less than subscribing to a Sparklets delivery service, while not much more than filling your jugs up manually at a local water store (I won't compare against the vending machine fillers as those are just plain nasty). Now, add the fact that you don't have to drive anywhere for it, or have to wait for a truck to bring it to you. The water is simply always there. Also, the price of the filters is quite reasonable. Don't get me wrong. They aren't incredibly cheap, but their quality thus far seems to be quite good and we appreciate that they aren't gauging customers like refrigerator manufacturers do with their (useless) filters (these are far better since they actually work). We had to take a (very detailed) vote with an email passed around, on which model should be installed in the breakroom. It was a toss-up between this one and the 6-stage option, which simply added alkalization. However, the final vote leaned heavily toward the 5-stage as the body needs some of its acidity to function properly. Thus too much (drinking nothing but) alkaline water could actually be a bad thing. So 5-stage option it was. Installation isn't too difficult, although it was a little more for our situation since 80% of the space under the sink (the only place we were allowed to put it) is located behind the guts to the sink without any way of actually getting back there (an odd design but looks nice on the outside). So we had to remove more than half the plumbing down there in order to get to the valves/supply in the back. Regardless, with 2-3 of us helping at any given time, he had the entire project (and the extension kit to the fridge, seen running through the cabinets in a frew of the attached images) done in around an hour and a half or so. This included a number of social distractions. As long as you are confident in yourself, you will be fine. Just remember, don't be shy with the teflon tape. If you see threads where something screws together, go ahead and apply some (even if the instructions don't say to). You can never be too safe when it comes to preventing leaks! They also give you enough, which is nice. It asks you to flush the system for the first time by letting the tank fill for 2-3 hours and then flush it out the faucet for 5-6 minutes. This is because the carbon filter initially causes the water to gain some blackness to it. This is true, although you will want to do this twice in our opinion (maybe even three times to be sure). After that, things seem nice and pure. Regardless, after the first flush, it is safe even if you see a little of the black dust left over. It's just the carbon dust from the filter and harmless. If you see what looks like tiny white residue floating on the top, that is also harmless--those are just micro-bubbles caused by the air/pressure in the line (they eventually go away). The PPM (parts per million) of the normal city water coming to the tap was close to 500 PPM (Las Vegas tap water is a bit nasty). The (useless and expensive) fridge filter lead to around 460-470 PPM and similar taste. The RO processed water is around 9-12 PPM. So this seems to be working quite well so far. As mentioned, we also got the additional kit to break off to the fridge as well. It took a little while for the fridge to flush things out so it was only using the new water, but now it has the same PPM. We will make sure to update if anything changes, but so far, we are loving this and there is many of us who plan to buy into one at home. -- Update 05/07/2020 -- So far, everything has been working fantastically. No complaints from anyone, including on the taste. We have also uploaded a few images now that Amazon has returned the option for customer reviews. **If you have found our review helpful, please vote it as helpful below so I know. This helps me provide quality feedback in the future.

> I purchased the APEC ROES-50 to replace a similar 25 year-old system, largely because I was due for a completely filter change (including the membrane), and a tank change --- which would have costed as much as a new system. > The APEC ROES-50 system includes everything you need for a complete installation, including adapters, a splitter, and a valve to attach to your cold water line, and an RO (reverse osmosis) faucet. Caveat, I recommend a dual dishwasher/RO air gap, or at least an RO air gap faucet, which are NOT included. I very strongly recommend a small tube of food-grade silicon grease. > Since my old system was a 1/4" tubing system (like the APEC ROES-50), I used the old 1/4" water supply line (meaning that I did not have to install any adapters, splitters, valves, nor a new line). I could have used my old (air-gap) RO faucet --- but I chose to use the (included) new (non-airgap) faucet. EASE OF INSTALLATION > The two hardest parts of a new installation are installing the adapter (if necessary), a splitter, valve, and a new cold water supply line, AND drilling a hole in your countertop for the reverse osmosis faucet. If you install a dual dishwasher/RO air gap, that will require a second hole. Since I did NOT have to do any of that, my installation was very easy. Essentially, all I had to do was install a valve on the top of the new tank (very easy), install the 3 primary filters (very easy), and connect lines to the water supply, to the tank, and to the RO faucet (easy). > Connecting the lines to the water supply, to the incoming water line, water tank, and to the RO faucet was very easy: You pull out plugs from the connectors, insert the new lines (IMPORTANT -- as deep as they will go), and then pull out on the new lines to tighten the connection. Remarkable! Installing the connections on my old system was much more difficult, and almost invariably leaked. The new quick connections were ridiculously easy, and after about 2 years, have NEVER leaked. OTHER OPTIONS > Tempted by a smaller, more compact system? That's fine for a drinking water system, say in an office. But check out the tank capacity, the amount of water that such a system can deliver at one-time is about half-the nominal tank capacity. A 1 gal system would only deliver a little over half-a gallon at a time. Smaller (than 5-gal tank) systems are likely to be too small for a home kitchen, if you want to do more than boil a pot of spaghetti. A small system will probably generate much less RO wastewater (and therefore be kinder to your water bill), but maintenance will probably be comparatively high --- because they use non-standard components. Most of the components of the ROES-50 system are industry-standard --- you can purchase most of the components (under various brands) from Home Depot --- and therefore, the prices are competitive. > You need a 5 gallon tank (which can actually deliver only 2--3 gallons at-a-time) for a home kitchen system. You may never use more than a gallon at a time, but that first gallon will be delivered quickly -- the second or third gallon will be tad slower. If you want a fourth or fifth gallon, you'll have to wait a half-hour or so. If you need a higher capacity system, I strongly suggest that you add additional storage tanks first, rather than a higher capacity filtering system. (If you opt for a nominally higher capacity filtering system, you'll need the additional tanks anyway to take advantage of the higher capacity filtering system). > I considered a ca $30 more expensive 3/8" line system (largely because I suspected that a 3/8" system would be less leak-prone). I'm glad I did not buy it. For one thing, I would have had to install new fittings for the water supply to the RO system. It is claimed that the 3/8" system fills big cooking pots quickly, but frankly, the 1/4" system does as well. Bullshxt !!! --- the difference would be measured in seconds, and your max capacity would still only be 2-3 gallons at a time. If you increase your storage to, say, 20 gallons (to be capable of delivering 10-15 gallons at a time) (very easy, just purchase the tanks and fittings to connect them), then maybe the system would "fill big pots" noticeably faster (but still measured in seconds). > By the way a 2--3 gallon capacity (for the ROES-50 system, with just a single 5 gal tank) might sound inadequate, but in 25 years, I've never felt the need for greater capacity -- I virtually never used more than a gallon at a time. (Well, collecting 10 gal in plastic milk bottles ahead of a hurricane can take an afternoon, but I've only done that once). And the solution (for me, if I felt that I needed it) would be to add a second 5-gallon tank, not to "upgrade" to a "higher capacity" system. Moreover, presumably a "100 gallon/day system" probably generates 2x more RO wastewater than a 50 gallon/day system -- and the difference may add up to considerably higher water bills. > It was my impression that the ROES-50 system came with standard fittings, and that I'd have to pay more for a quick-connect system. But my ROES-50 system came with quick-connect fittings. No error by APEC nor Amzn -- the box and instructions were clearly labeled "ROES-50". TIPS > When installing the cold water supply, tank, faucet, and drain lines, it is best NOT to shorten them for a neater installation (as I did for my first RO system). In the future, you may need to change the water tank and the reverse osmosis faucet, and maybe even your main sink faucet. In the past 30 years I've changed my main faucet 3 times, my RO faucet 3 times, my RO tank 3 times, and my RO membrane 4 times, plus changing the other RO filters many times. If you shorten the lines, you might have to disconnect various lines for access, which can be surprisingly confusing, and might be difficult to re-install without leakage. If you leave the lines long, you can probably simply move the RO system aside for access without having to disconnect anything. > To install the cold water supply, tank, and reverse osmosis faucet lines, keep the connection CLEAN until installation (i.e., don't remove the plugs early, and wipe off the ends of the lines with a clean cloth) just before you insert them into the connectors). Insert the end of the line as deep into the connector as it will go, then pull back HARD to set the connection. Leave 3--5" space with your cabinet walls (or door) so that there is no sideways strain on the lines at the connectors. > Use (food grade) silicon grease (NOT included) when installing the three big filter housings. The 3" diameter o-rings in the three big filter housings come greased already with silicon grease (be VERY careful not to contaminate the surfaces of the greased o-rings with dust or grit). When you change the filters in the future, you should clean the o-rings (until no more black carbon comes off on a paper towel), and re-grease them with food grade silicon grease, and wipe off the excess, thoroughly. > The 2 large carbon filters also have rubber disks, which are best LIGHTLY greased with silicon grease (wipe off ALL excess). Don't forget to remove the shrink plastic around the three big filters before installing them (as one reviewer claimed that her plumber had failed to do). > APEC recommends installing the RO drainline into your sink drain pipe as low as practical to avoid the sounds of RO waste water dripping into your sink drain. Instead, I suggest installing the RO drainline below the level that the drain line exits the RO manifold (which depends on where and how you mount the RO manifold), but otherwise AS HIGH AS POSSIBLE, to minimize backflow from your sink U trap, which really has disgusting stuff (mats of bacteria) in it. I actually have a 6" high "stand", consisting of 4 short lengths of 4x6 boards to raise the system as high as possible in my sink cabinet. Beware that the water level in your sink waste line can be higher than the top of the sink drainline U-trap if your sink is draining slowly. The HIGHER the drainline enters your sink drainline, the safer, albeit the sound of dripping water may be a little louder. Be vigilant to maintain your sink waste line clear at all times and that water never backs up in your sink. [See "No Air Gap" below for a better idea] > Applying silicon grease to the threads of the big filter housings makes them easier to tighten tight enough to prevent leakage, and to later loosen to change the filters. (Read some of the negative reviews which complain that it is impossible to tighten the housings tight enough to stop leaks, or that it is impossible to remove the housings to replace filters. Many users apparently overtighten them, to the point that the housings eventually crack. Trust me --- USE SILICON GREASE on the filter housing threads. Screw the filter housings on and off several times to be sure that the silicon grease is thoroughly spread on the threads), then tighten firmly hand-tight --- you should not have to use tools. CAUTION -- Some day, your system or your sink will leak. So, I very strongly suggest that you invest in a leak detection alarm. You don't need to get fancy. You don't need WiFi and other silly features. I bought a package of 2 alarms for $8 twenty years ago, and they have saved my hotwater heater cabinet from being destroyed, and my sink cabinet from being destroyed a half-dozen times. These days $10 (each) alarms are good enough for this purpose. Weathertek (and probably some other manufacturers) also makes a sink cabinet mat which I highly recommend. The mat catches leaks before they puddle up enough to trigger your leak alarm. Slow leaks can damage press-board cabinets without setting off a leak alarm. If you change your water heater, install a deep plastic dish (designed for the purpose), beneath it, with a leak detector inside the dish. NO AIR GAP > RO systems require a wastewater drain line --- almost always draining into your sink drain pipe. That's because additional water is used to flush the reverse osmosis filter --- you've got to get rid of those sodium ions, calcium ions , chloride ions, etc. trapped by the osmosis filter, or the filter would be quickly hopelessly clogged up. That RO wastewater has to drain somewhere. > I was surprised by the lack of an airgap in the wastewater line in the APEC ROES-50 system (which is usually built into included RO faucets). The cheapest option is to connect your RO wastewater line to your dishwasher air gap (if your dishwasher is adjacent to your RO system, and has an airgap). > The best option is to use a "dual inlet air gap" specifically designed for a dishwasher and an RO system --about $40 from Amzn. There is even a model with a 1/4" push-in fitting on the RO side (the same type fitting as this APEC ROES-50 system for all the other connections). The only downside to a dishwasher/RO airgap is that you need another ~1" diameter hole in your countertop. Also, the APEC ROES-50 wasteline is 3/8", so you'll need a 3/8" to 1/4" tubing adapter -- but that's cheap and easy. > If your dishwasher is NOT adjacent to your RO system, you can replace the included non-airgap RO faucet with an airgap RO faucet. Easy-pesy, but an extra expense, and not as good a solution as a dishwasher/RO airgap. > If your RO system drains into the highest sink in your house or building, which is also and the highest sink in your neighborhood, you do NOT live in a flood zone, and your water pressure is stable (even after severe storms, etc.), and is at a higher elevation than any toilet in your neighborhood -- then you are PROBABLY okay without an airgap, albeit I'd still recommend a combined dishwasher/RO air gap. > If you are at a comparatively low elevation of a municipal sewage system (i.e., if sewage may flow into your home plumbing during a flood, etc.), then an air gap RO system is recommended (and probably mandated by law if you are connected to a municipal water system). In many municipalities, an airgap is even mandated for even stand-alone dishwashers. You MAY be able to recover from a potential contamination event by replacing ALL of the filters in the system (at about the cost of an entirely new system, which would be a better idea), but the true danger is in not knowing that your system has been contaminated. > Without an air gap, your system can become contaminated simply from the sewage-like gunk in your sink drain line if your RO system ever looses water pressure (say during a widespread power outage that shuts down the municipal water pumps, or even during maintenance of the municipal water lines). If your system is for vacation home etc., where you may turn off the water for long periods (or otherwise your water pressure is not continuous), then an airgap is probably essential. WHY IS A DISHWASHER AIR GAP BETTER THAN AN AIR GAP RO FAUCET? > That sewage like bacteria in your sink U-trap can grow up into your RO drain line and clog it, causing your air gap faucet to leak onto your counter (it is designed to do this). If you have an air gap RO faucet your wastewater drainline needs to be cleaned every 4-6 months. Read the reviews -- several reviewers claim that they replace their entire RO systems every 2 years or so because of the leakage from the RO airgap faucet (even though, obviously, it would be much more practical to simply clean the RO wastewater line). > Cleaning the wastewater line of an RO airgap faucet usually means disconnecting the RO drainline at your sink U-bend and running a special brush up the drain line to the RO air gap faucet. Alternatively, RO air gap faucets usually have a ~1/8" diameter drain hole on the side (non-air gap faucets do not have a drainhold). With a large syringe (at least 1/8" diameter at the pointy end) is possible to force a blast of air, or to inject an ounce or so of Clorox (or hydrogen peroxide, or even diluted dishsoap) through the drain hole (and down the RO waste-water line). The problem is that it is easy to forget to clean the RO wastewater drainline on schedule, and wake up to a flood on your countertop some morning. It's happened to me MANY times. > WHY WON'T AN RO WASTE WATER LINE ALSO CLOG IF IT IS ROUTED THROUGH A DISHWASHER AIR GAP? A bacterial mat won't grow up your dishwasher wasteline because the drain line is much larger, much longer, and is the dishwasher side is vigorously flushed every time you run your dishwasher -- and even if the bacterial mat got to the dishwasher air gap, the airgap would stop it from getting any farther. > Why does the APEC ROES-50 have a 3/8" wastewater line even though my old RO system had a 1/4" RO waste water line? This is apparently APECs attempt to reduce the probability of clogging of the RO wasteline with a sewage-like bacterial mat growing from the U-trap of your sink drain pipe. But, in my opinion the larger wastewater line only slows down the wastewater flow velocity, making it easier for the bacterial mat to grow up the line and into your RO system (since there is no air gap to stop it).

I bought this same system in February 2016 and placed my first review back then. This is my update on March 2026. This product has served me well for ten years. I live in the Southwest, and the tap water has a lot of minerals and tastes bad. After all this time, it keeps giving me great tasting water and friends on the area without this RO system, bring bottles to my home, so they can get some good drinking water to their home. Filters last long time, making the maintenance cost low. Installation is easy if you are handy. But you must be careful and not do it in a hurry. Now, If you want to know about potential problems and customer support read the following: After ten years I got some leaking that was not easy to fix, until I understood what the problem was. I learned that the canister caps can crack, especially if canisters are overtightened when replacing the filters. I discovered online that many people deal with this. To prevent this, canisters should be tightened by hand and with the tool just add 1/8 or a turn. When hard to deal with leaks happen, remove the canisters and look for very thin cracks on the caps. The only solution is replacing the "system head" with the three caps attached to the main metal support. Another good solution is to replace the whole system that comes with all filters. If you replace filters for the five stages, the cost is about half of the full system with the filters. So, if you have gotten five or more years of good service, it would not be a bad deal. That is what I should have done that from the beginning, but I did not know what was going on. So I almost $100 in the five stages filters plus O-rings. But that did not fix the problem. Then the system head was out of stock... I had to wait 6 weeks to be able to buy it. But the good people from APEC support went out of their way so that I could get the part really quick. I liked that they stood by their product. Now my system is working like a charm again!

Good quality and easy install

Installation is quick and instructions are easy to follow. Water quality is good and it eliminates all chlorine taste. However; I am not sure how clean the water really is on microscopic level. One culprit is and that I have seen consistently over the reviews is the cracking of the filter housing and this creating leakage undue the sink. I bought a replacement and it was solved but nearly 2 years in with little replacement, this to me is a quality issue rather than usage but not noticing this on time (eg during vacation or weekend breaks would have gone unnoticed and may have created mold and water damage. Also the original main shut off valve for the system is leaking and does not hold water anymore and therefore I had to buy a new replacement for that as well.

My family household consists of 4 Disabled/chronically ill/elderly people. We've all been suffering from our atrocious public water supply, which is not only off the charts in hardness and poor ph levels, but we've had tests reveal all sorts of NASTIES in our water. Nitrates and Nitrites, and even our unfriendly neighborhood toxin LEAD! Its been a nightmare. On any given day the water will come out of the faucet either smelling strongly of Chlorine, or smelling like a dirty fish tank! 3 of us have horrible reactions to the hard, chlorinated water. We break out in painful rashes and blisters! But I digress... Our APEC RO filtration system has helped so much! I installed it under our kitchen sink. Now we can cook and wash our hands with clean water! Even when we wash dishes we give everything a rinse with the RO water afterwards and its been helping prevent our dishes from smelling like a wet dog after they dry. We bottle it and add minerals for drinking and making espresso and tea! I swear they both come out MUCH better with the mineralized RO water. Someday I would like to upgrade our system and get the remineralization cartridge that APEC also makes. We couldn't afford it at the time, but it would be nice to not need to keep buying mineral additive drops. The RO water comes out so clean and fresh tasting! We prefer to drink higher PH water, which is also why we treat the water we bottle for drinking purposes. Im happy to say that when i use a 16 panel water testing kit, the RO filtered water is MUCH better! No lead, no chlorine, flouride or those disgusting Nitrates and Nitrites. Hardness and PH are much better too. It definitely works and has helped put us a little more at ease. Honestly we want to get a filtration system for our entire house, because our local monopolized water company doesn't want to do anything about the problems with our water quality! That will likely be our next step to make our family safer, because we still have major problems with our showers and laundry because of our terrible water. Were really grateful to APEC for making us feel a bit safer in our own home. Their customer service has been friendly too. These units periodically go on sale and are definitely worth buying one then, if affording one at full price is difficult for some(I know its hard for us. We'd already have a whole home system installed if we could). The kit was relatively easy to install. Id like to note that if you're not comfortable with drilling a hole into the downstem for the drainage, you can purchase a new, flexible replacement that has a built-in nozzle that you can attach the drainage line from the RO system to. We got one at Home Depot. It was very inexpensive. Its called the SNAPPYTRAP. Ive included a photo of that as well. Its worked great so far with 0 leaks! Our old downstem actually corroded away and broke, which is why we went the replacement route instead of drilling the hole and mounting the bracket included in the RO kit. We're very pleased with our system so far. And it seems like the maintenance is fairly inexpensive. 2 of the cartridges only need to be replaced every 2-4 years and the 3 large filters get replaced every year. Its about $70 on here for a full replacement kit that includes all 5 filters. And it's about $30 if you want to just replace the 3 large filters. I'll definitely update my review if any problems come up down the line, but we installed ours several months ago and it's been great!

Do not buy! When I decided to buy a water filter, I did not intend to cut corners. I looked for the top-rated filters, and this one was at the top of the list. How that came to be is a mystery. The parts fit poorly and will leak unless you experiment repeatedly with the tape that comes with the box, which in and of itself is a tacit admission that the company knows its parts do not fit together well. Each time you find the parts leaking, you have to negotiate the garbage disposal and cramped space underneath your sink to disassemble the filter and then apply additional rounds of tape on the leaking parts. If that does not do it, you will have to repeat and repeat. You may even encounter the presence of so much tape that the parts will not even screw together anymore, thus necessitating the removal of some tape. After around eight hours of agonizing disassembling and reassembling, finally I got the part near the water line and the adapter to stop leaking. It seemed success had arrived, and all my toil would finally pay off. The next thing I heard was a hissing like a serpent as the red tube that delivers the water to the filtration system had flown out and was spraying water everywhere. It turns out that whereas most of the tubes (not to be confused with the metal pieces that are screwed together) lock in so tightly that it is a royal pain pulling them out if you need to, the tube that actually sustains the most water pressure has no locking mechanism at its connection point with the water filtration system. No matter how snugly I pushed it in, it could not sustain more than about ten seconds of water flow before it went flying out and spraying water all over the place. At no point did the tube connected to the water tank ever deliver a single drop to the water tank, and it is worth noting that this cannot be my fault as the majority of the actual filtration system comes preassembled, and the water tank merely needs to be attached to the filtration system by a single tube. Although the various water filters filled with water, and the tube taking water away to the drain valve functioned properly, the tube that was to take the purified water to the water tank would not carry any water, and it was probably this obstruction that caused the red tube (that delivers water to the filtration system) to go flying out. I am thankful this problem was severe enough that it was discovered during installation, rather than it being small enough in severity to keep the system running long enough for me to turn my back on it and come back and find a flooded kitchen. There is no doubt in my mind that would have happened. In sum, the main parts the customer has to actually assemble are the portion that connects with the water line to deliver water to the filter and the connection to the drain valve where the discarded water is sent. Once that has been completed, the rest is basically just sticking certain tubes into the right places. Most of them locked in very firmly (to the point removal is very difficult), but the one sustaining the most water pressure (the one actually delivering the water to the filter) apparently had no locking mechanism and went flying out repeatedly. This product is absolute and utter junk, and while I do not usually like to take the time to write negative reviews, I felt a public duty, given the cost of this product, the labor involved with assembly, and the risk of serious damage to your kitchen from the high risk of flooding. This product is junk, and you should not buy it.

I purchased the APEC ROES50 Water Filtration system for our condo unit after reading numerous reviews about similar products. The system is to replace our Zero Water filter/jug to have great water on demand at lower price. I received the unit in a single box within a couple days. I read the instructions for installation and proceeded to install under the sync. I did not plan on drilling holes in the quartz counter so the faucet was installed on a hook inside the cabinet door. I also have the filter unit resting on the bottom of the cupboard so it is easy to replace the filters when needed. The install from start to finish took about an hour. The instructions are very clear with step by step process and clear diagrams. The "quick connect" tubes and fittings are easy to install (make sure you push the tube as far as it goes and then pull on it to secure). When removing the protective cap at the end of the output line of the 5th filter, remember that the cap is "quick connect". Don't just pull on it to remove, you need to push on the ring to release it... The installation of the input water valve is easy with the connectors provided. The drain is also easy to install, you just need the right drill bit to drill a hole into the PVC pipe. The tank is also easy to assemble. I did let the tank fill completely (in couple hours) and then drained it to a trickle (in less than 10 minutes). I repeated this 3 times before testing the water with a TDS tester. The city water is a 144ppm, the APEC filtered water in at about 6ppm. I am happy with the cost, results and overall experience.

جودة عالية تم قياس الاملاح الموجودة بالماء بجهاز القياس ونقاوة الماء تماثل الماء المقطر قبل التنقية ماء الصنبور يحتوي املاح بنسبة 089 وبعد مرورها على الجهاز صارت النسبة 003

I have bought this product and wasn't aware or warned the water system of UK differs from US and Romania. I received the "Self piercing feed water adapter" instead of the default "Feed water adaptor 3/8" - 1/2" with needle valve kit" This made the installation a very dificult procedure as all our water cables cannot be pierced and I had to look a day or 2 for a working custom model. Could not find. This is why I am writing this review, to ask you kindly if you know how I can get "Feed water adaptor 3/8" - 1/2" with needle valve kit"

Este sistema necesita conectarse a una toma de tenga por lo menos 40 psi de presión, para trabajar de forma eficiente (más de 50 psi es lo ideal). Yo instalé un hidroneumático de 1/2 HP y tanque de 24 litros, que genera hasta 40 psi y agregué una bomba de saturación (permeate pump), para elevar la presión de salida al tanque y reducir la cantidad de agua de desecho. Logré la eficiencia indicada por el fabricante de 3 litros de agua de desecho por cada litro purificado. En estas condiciones estoy purificando 5 litros por hora con 15 litros de desecho. La manguera negra no la conecté al drenaje porque me puede tirar tanta agua, que además no tan sucia y se puede usar para el aseo o el jardín, en vez de eso pongo la manguera en una cubeta de 20 litros, que se llena cada dos días aproximadamente. En mi colonia el agua municipal trae mucho sedimento, así que recomiendo poner un filtro de los normales de cartucho de fieltro antes del tinaco o cisterna, de preferencia. Logré purificar de 380 TSD que entrega el agua de la llave, a 18 TDS, que es el mismo valor de las aguas de garrafón (e-pura, bonafont). Si en su casa no pueden o no quieren elevar a la presión necesaria, tambien pueden comprar una bomba elevadora de presión especial para estos sistemas, pero son caras (RO booster pump). El agua tiene muy buen sabor!

APEC es un buen filtro pero la llave de coneccion no es compatible con sistema de tubería en España, yo tenía que llamar a APEC en Estados Unidos para que me mandan la llave original que es compatible con España y tenía que para 57€,y no estoy contenta de pagar este dinero además de dinero que pague para el filtro y instalación , la llave que está en la caja es para sistema de tubería de engletera.