chess resin mold

I was afraid the board would be too thin and flimsy but it’s not at all! It’s a great size and thickness and the squares were deep enough that they were easy to fill. The pieces all came out great though some were difficult to de mold, but that’s to be expected. Be sure to fill them about half way and squeeze the air bubbles out! Trust me, take your time doing this, especially in places like the knight’s nose and the cross on top of the king. And be sure they are completely cured before de molding. Overall I was very pleased with this set and can’t wait to start making another one!

Honestly the set was great. I totally thought it came with resin but it didn’t, my mistake for not reading the whole description though. Full disclaimer it did take like 5 hours bc you have to do the pieces in two sets as well as the board. Also a few of the pawns heads fell off so I had to make a third batch, but user error tbh. Definitely be careful when filling the chess board bc the colors will leak if filled to high or not level. Truly turned out better than expected and wasn’t that hard. Also recommend gloves for sure. Don’t skip those.

Haven’t used yet, mold seems to be good quality. Not sure if I’ll use it or not, for some crazy reason, I collect molds and I’ve got way to many still in the plastic wrapping..

This is my first mold I've ever used. I was hoping to find a more creative design, but not much is available out there. My experience so far has been good, as far as the product is concerned. The design is intricate and looks great. The mold does not stick to my epoxy at all, even without release spray. I've made 4 sets now and see no sign of mold deterioration yet. The molds stand on their own which is pretty awesome, though I prefer the holder as then I can use an unlevelled table and just level the holder. Overall, pretty well designed. I've used some of the mica powder which has a nice effect, but I've nothing to compare it to since I haven't used any other mica powders. I didn't try the chess board mold as I'm building my own, so I can't comment on that. I'm taking a star off for two things, neither really worth a star on their own: The collar on these pieces is unnecessarily large. It tends to trap air and makes removal of the molds *much* more difficult than it needs to be. It takes twice as long to demold just because of the difficulty of getting the mold over the collar. My support experience was not good. I kept seeing 'chips' on the collar. I emailed support and after 4 days they wrote back and asked questions that were answered in my original message. In that same time the epoxy manufacturer had a full email conversation with me helping me determine the cause was bubbles trapped in the mold, walking me through a foolproof technique for eliminating the problem with little effort by rolling the base and collar after a 2/3 pour, and following up with me to ask me how it went.

We have yet to make a full set of chess pieces, but we have made a few random pawns and bishops. The chess board we completed after several failed attempts. You are supposed to do every other square with color, wait 12 hours, then do the remaining squares. Watching the video that Lets Resin has of making the board REALLY helped me understand how to do it right & then I was successful in making the board. I based my board off of their idea they show in the video with the white squares and a rainbow swirl made with clear resin + several colors of alcohol inks swirled together with a popsicle stick, with some white resin on top to add contrast to the swirl. At the last second I threw in some of my random hotfix rhinestones because I bought a 20,000 pack and so I often toss them in to resin while it’s curing to “spice it up” a bit. It doesn’t look nearly as good as the video they have of the board, but I am happy with it! Sadly I was a little short on filling up the entire board mold so my chess board isn’t completely level. But I’m thrilled I finally made one without messing it up like I did a few times before. Comes with really nice velour fabric drawstrings bags to hold your chess pieces too, which is a bonus. I stored all the molds in a large ziploc bag, that way they will all stay together. Molds are thick, but make sure they are SUPER rock solid cured before taking resin out of chess piece molds. A pawn I made lost its top ball shaped piece because it wasn’t all the way cured and I tried turning the mold inside out to remove the resin. The pieces stand up really well with the design they have for them. Easy to release as long as you are fully cured, you shouldn’t have a problem.

Okay, I’ll admit it... this is my very first resin project, and wow… I made so many mistakes along the way. That said, the molds themselves are really good quality. I’ve completed one board (and had a practice board) and gone through three trial runs for the chess pieces, and I can confidently say the molds produce beautiful results once you get the hang of it. The details on the pieces come out crisp, and the board lines are clean and well-defined. A couple of tips from a beginner who learned the hard way: - When filling the chess piece molds, pinch and hold the bottom. It helps stabilize everything and get into the areas that the resin didn't fill. Then wait for the air bubbles to rise to the top before topping off. Patience makes a big difference. - For the board, work from the outside in. The outer edge is narrow and can easily spill over if you’re not careful. It’s much easier to manage small spillovers into the empty squares than trying to clean up resin running over the outside edge. Note, the squares themselves have thin walls, use a wooden skewer (or a paint brush) to move the resin. There’s definitely a learning curve if you’re new to resin, but the molds themselves are solid and well-made. If you take your time and learn the process, you can create a really impressive custom chess set.

The chess piece molds take some work to ensure you get all the air bubbles out. Pour half the resin in and squeeze, squeeze, squeeze to make sure all the small voids are filled. Especially important on the K, Q, Bishops and pawns. The chess piece molds take a fair bit of necessary punishment when you demold. Wait until the pieces are COMPLETELY cured and then some, else you'll end up with headless pawns. The board mold needs to be deeper and the square divider walls higher. If you skimp on resin, your finished board will warp, even sitting on a flat surface. You will not get a good finished product in one pour. Also, the silicon on the board I received had a lot of imperfections in it which translate to the resin when demolded. Took a lot of sanding and polishing to get the final product looking clean and glossy. The board works best when you fill the entire mold to almost overflowing in one shot. Be prepared to waste resin as they don't tell you the capacity of the mold up front - you have to figure it out for yourself. (hint: fill it with Olive Oil and measure the capacity, you'll get a better indication than using water). Once it cures, remove the board from the mold, flip it over. Tape around the outside edges to make a well. Use a spatula and spread over a coat of resin to fill in the grooves on top....(a bamboo skewer also works well) clear or color, your choice. Once it cures , remove the tape, sand down the top with like 1500 to 2000 grit paper then clean with alcohol/acetone. Then re-apply masking tape around the outside edges and pour an additional thin clear layer of resin. Once it cures, sand and polish the whole thing, removing all the sharp or concave/convex edges. I made 4 sets with the chessboard mold I purchased, and only the last one I did looked 'professional' because I took the time to do all of the above steps. The first 3 (poured to the depth of the mold) started warping about 10-12 days after production. Especially if exposed to sunlight/warm environment (even though I'm using a good quality UV-resistant resin).

Great mold!

comes with all the pieces and two nice bags.

Parfait, échiquier magnifique

Todo bien pero no me ha llegado la pieza del rey por lo que no he podido hacer bien el ajedrez... Y ahora me he quedado sin pieza :/

Da artigiana che lavora spesso con la resina, ho analizzato questo kit con occhio critico. Gli stampi sono di un silicone di buona qualità, con una finitura interna lucida che riduce drasticamente i tempi di post-lavorazione. ​Pro: I dettagli dei pezzi degli scacchi sono molto nitidi. Anche i pezzi più complessi si sformano senza troppa fatica. Contro: [Inserisci qui se hai trovato difetti, es: la scacchiera richiede molta attenzione per livellare bene i colori]. ​Consiglio tecnico: Per i pezzi piccoli, versate un velo di resina e passate uno stuzzicadenti nei dettagli per liberare le bolle prima di riempire lo stampo. ​Nel complesso, un set eccellente sia per chi inizia sia per chi cerca stampi duraturi

Me encantó para hacer juegos