A-Premium Steering Wheel Mounted Cruise Control Switch, w/Green Backlight

Direct replacement, fit perfectly and plugs matched up to factory. Only took RV on one trip so far but they fixed my non functioning cruise control and worked perfectly. Time will tell how long they last but so far pleased with the product for the price

they worked great and fit like the originals...

This item is not as described. There is no LED light at all in unit. Also, the quality is very poor and it does not work. The left on/off switch does not click or have any spring to it at all. Very misleading item description and many reviews of others with same problems. Stated that the wires may be crossed and with modifications, the light goes on but come on man! It ain’t that type of party. How about just make g a product that works. Amazon needs to do better with letting sellers like this on their platform.

They work, but sometimes stick a bit, don't really feel them engage / disengage freely like the originals. But they do work, and haven't stuck functionally.

Definitely a foriegn knock off, but works as intended and the price was spot on

Still works after a few months of use. Old button just stopped working. I think it was gunked up from twenty years of use. In all easy install and works well.

Purchased these switches after reading all the "no backlight" reviews (and was prepared to live without it) so wasn't too surprised to find no backlight when installed on my 2004 E250 van. Still, am unable to leave well enough alone, so I removed the button faces just to check and could see that, yes, there are in fact LEDs mounted inside. Since polarity matters for LEDs, I tried reversing the voltage on the two illumination wires (i.e. +12v to the black wire and negative to the red), and bingo they lit right up. Simply swapped the red and black wires in the 5 pin connector and, et. viola, my switches now have backlight. For those who would like to try this fix, it is easily done by using something pointy (like a toothpick) to -gently- push down on the little metal tabs on the back side of the 5 pin connector (see pic) while -gently- pulling on the wire. Once the wire is out, gently bend that little metal tab back up a bit before reinserting and it should click into place and stay put when given a tug. If it still pulls out easily, you just need to bend the tab up a bit more so it catches in the little window. Not sure if the backlight on these is actually wired correctly for some portion of the vehicles on the list (???) but, based on user reviews plus the notably odd and unconventional use of a black wire for positive and a red wire for negative on the illumination circuit, I rather suspect they wrong for all of them. Guessing that probably some forehead smackingly simple thing got flubbed at the design or mfg stage and made it all the way through production, across the ocean and onto our porches without being caught (and is still being blissfully ignored as far as I can tell). And the thing that really bothers me about any of that... it is exactly the kind of example those a-holes in the quality control department where I work would use to try to convince me their miserable thorn-in-my-side existence is justified - grrrrrr! And speaking of quality control, aside from the bass ackwards wiring, also had to cram in some shim material (I used some thin black cardboard) along the bottom/left edge of the OFF button to keep the button from rubbing on the steering wheel and sticking. Seems to me that the lower casing could be a bit fatter and/or the button a bit smaller in that area. I presume this to be the source of some of the negative reviews. Otherwise they fit in my steering wheel reasonably well and the other buttons seem to have sufficient clearance without shims. And btw, the shim looks considerably less ghetto after touching up with a black marker. I do agree with others that the tactile feel when clicking them is not nearly as satisfying as the originals, but as long as they keep working, they are perfectly fine enough. Whether they actually will keep working is the question. The Motorcraft version had keyboard-style membrane switches inside, which are more or less bomb proof and way more sealed off from the environment. These have little pcb mounted tactile buttons (visible in one of the attached pics). On their own, that type of button (decent ones anyway) can last for millions of cycles. The question is, how many clicks will those little guys actually last for - or will they even stay soldered in - with those big ol' button faces being thumb-pummeled on top of them? The reports of early failures are not encouraging, but hope springs eternal... maybe those other guys were just unlucky.

fast shipping best price thank you

ركب نفس مقاس الاصلي مادة الصنع خفيفه بشكل واضح اشتغل ليوم واحد فقط لااعلم هل العطل منه ام من السيارة

Tremenda porquería, no lo compren los botones se traban y además no tienen la retroiluminación

no era lo que esperaba, no tienen luz los botones y los controles me cancelaron el clacson, ya no pita