Zinsser Bulls Eye SealCoat Universal Sanding Sealer

Perfect sealer for MDF. Low voc. Quick dry. Low sheen

First, I never write reviews. I think this is actually the first one I've ever written. But, I thought I'd take the opportunity to part some knowledge on a very particular kind of use for this product for a very particular stain technique, and that is what's called a "dirty wipe." Wood stain is meant to absorb into wood. You apply it, let it sit for a few minutes, and then wipe it off. What is left on the wood are the microscopic pigment particles, which give the stain its color, most of which absorb into the wood. Some of those particles lay on top of the wood even after you wipe the stain off and it dries, but not many off. Most absorb into the wood. Of course, your finally step is to top coat. And here's where problems can and will occur, particularly if you use a dirty wipe technique for applying your stain. A dirty wipe is when you apply a stain, but you do not completely wipe it off, leaving a little bit on the wood to dry. This is usually done to achieve a darker appearance. The more coats of a dirty wipe you do, the more stain dries on top of the wood, and of course, the darker your stain will look. Here is where major league problems can occur. Most oil based top coats, particularly oil based polyurethanes, use the same exact vehicle to apply your oil based stains... solvents, usually mineral spirits. The major problem with this is that solvents are also used to clean and break down oil based stains. Those solvents can severely smear and blotch your stain job. When staining in a normal manner, that is, allowing the stain to penetrate into the wood, then wiping completely off, you have fewer problems using a solvent based poly because those pigment particles are absorbed into the wood, and are "hidden" away into the wood's pores. However, when using a dirt wipe technique, where many of the stain's pigment particles are laying on top of the wood, solvent based poly will do nothing but smear and smudge all those exposed pigment particles, leaving a horrid looking mess. This, is where using this dewaxed shellac comes in. After a dirty wipe stain application, simply apply this product before you use a solvent-based poly top coat. The dewaxed shellac is has very little solvents in it and it will not smear your stain. It will seal it, lock it into place, and provide a barrier between your stain and poly top coat. You can very lightly sand your dewaxed shellac coat with 400 grit sandpaper, then apply your solvent based poly, worry-free, as your top coat is now being laid over the sealcoat, and will not touch or smear/blotch your stain. And viola! a problem solved before ruining your project and stain job BEFORE the problem occurs. This was an EXCELLENT solution to my fears of destroying all of my hard work before I top coatted with solvent based poly.

Perfect for either base coats or final coats.

It seems odd to give 5 stars ("I love it") to a finishing product. I don't love it, of course, but it is indispensable to me in finishing new furniture and in refinishing I am writing this review to give recognition to an excellent product, so that it may remain available. . IMHO the manufacturer under- sells Seal Coat by calling it a universal sanding sealer, although it does deserve each of those words. It is universal. It will adhere to any clean surface I have ever put it on (just get the grease and soap off with 0000 steel wool or 180 grit sandpaper). Every finish will adhere to it. Polyurethanes may not adhere to normal shellac, but they do adhere to Sealcoat. Traces of old silicone furniture polish can ruin a refinish job, but not if you coat it first with Seal Coat. And yes,it sands easily to a silky feel. It makes beautiful grain stand out. Also, it dries hard and odorless in a day, and will not give off a varnish-y smell for weeks. Except for bar tops, table tops, etc it is one of the best finishes you can choose. If you hate to finish furniture, try this quick and beautiful finish for bare wood or refinishing: it has three steps: (1) clean and smooth the old surface (2) brush on a thin coat of seal coat. Let dry for an hour. Sand lightly. (3) wipe on one (or more) coats of polyurethane wiping varnish. Presto. The disadvantages of Sealcoat are that it is more expensive than regular shellac, not widely available (but then there is Amazon) , not good for table tops or bar tops where water or alcohol may stand on it. (That's why a coat of polyurethane over the Sealcoat is a good idea.) Also, compared to the latest water-borne finishes it does smell strongly of alcohol. But it is non-toxic when dry and the fumes are not really toxic like paint thinner and lacquer thinner. Also, it takes a bit of confidence to brush on well because it dries so fast.

I have used this product to tint wood, adding pigments. And it does create a sandable pre-coat. Which is really what it is for. But what I have most appreciated have been the times I have used it to save seemingly destroyed work. The first time this happened was years ago. I had added tints to stain and the mixture/stain would not cure. After over a week the wood was still tacky. This was 5 solid pieces of wood shelving. Complete disaster! As a last chance option, I coated them with Bullseye. Miraculously, it totally worked! I don’t know that anyone would recommend this as a use, but it totally worked. After a few days, I used additional coats of polyurethane and the shelves are in my living room about 8 years later looking great. Then this week, I decided to add a coat of spray paint to a piece I had previously painted and let cure. For whatever reason (sometimes happens with spray paint), the original coat bubbled in one place. I thought I was going to have to replace the piece. But in using multiple coats of Bullseye (2 coats, then sand, repeat…), the spot has been fixed! Worried about the other pieces bubbling when I added a clear coat, I used the Bullseye preventatively (before SprayMax Glamour). Just used the Glamour today and the pieces look great. No further issues.

Did quite well sealing some odor from off gassing adhesive on wood.

I recently purchased two matching antique bed frames made out of wood with a headboard and footboard each. They were quite dirty but otherwise in good shape. After cleaning them up, I wanted to restore the finish and add a layer of polyurethane for extra protection. After researching, I decided to start off with SealCoat since I did not know what the original stain or sealant was made of. I was so glad I found this product after searching "wood sealer" on Amazon, because you can't really find it in stores. This sealant goes on quite easily with a brush, and truly adheres to any surface, coating, or sealant. It also does a magical job of restoring a finish- my project was looking rough after a thorough clean with magic erasers, simple green, and a light sanding. After the first coat, any hazy spots, scratches, or weird water rings completely disappeared and it dried to a beautiful finish. I ended up doing two coats with a light sand (220 or finer) in-between coats. This SealCoat doesn't provide a super durable finish, so I opted to add two coats of water based polyurethane on top. The polyurethane adhered wonderfully to the SealCoat even without sanding. The project turned out great and I'm so happy I found this product which was very easy to use and produced an amazing result.

It's Zinsser! Great stuff. Get it use it.

The product is as advertised and arrived early! If trying shellac for the first time, you may find that it dries too fast to spread well but that is typical of shellac and not a manufacturer issue. Ease of use comes with practice!

Good

But for the price I would buy again Works well with brush and paint spray gun

Tolles Zeug, nur leider schwer zu beschaffen und dann mit hohen Transportkosten

Great product as described and delivered promptly. Unfortunately can has been damaged and removing and replacing lid is difficult. Need better packaging for the future.