DSD TECH SH-G01L USB Isolator Supports USB 2.0 480Mbps High Speed Isolation

I have a DAW home recording studio with multiple components that have been recently purchased and was having noise issues on the monitor speakers. I'm using a Focusrite Scarlett 18i20 DAC, Presonus Faderport 16 controller, Sansui 27 inch WQHD monitor and a GMKtec mini computer. Noise was audible and fluctuated when using the mouse and keyboard navigating on the computer. This is generally a "ground loop" issue especially since my audio monitor cables are balanced. If you are experiencing a noise that is monotone it may be simply a faulty cord or power adapter and not a ground loop. Unplug each component one at a time to isolated the noise source. The ground wires in your home do not carry active house current and is a secondary protection in case of electrical shortages that will allow current back to the panel to trip a circuit breaker instead of a person being in series with a circuit in the event of an electrical anomaly. However unwanted magnetic fields with a wire nearby (such as a ground wire) produces signal currents that may interfere with devices sharing a circuit. Fan motors such as on computers may generate magnetic noise in this fashion.On my system when plugging and unplugging the USB cord from computer to DAC, noise would follow accordingly. After installing the DSD TECH USB isolator at 480MBS it worked like a charm and eliminated GL noise. I like the mini length cord since it allows room to plug in at the device with tight spaces sharing USB ports unlike the other more expensive bulky non-corded isolators. Also its reasonably priced comparatively and does NOT need a secondary power source to operate. I do not usually review products but wanted to post my experience to help anyone who has audio equipment noise issues and has been perplexed to find a solution. I highly recommend this product for ground loop issues for USB 2.0!!

The USB Isolator worked as expected.I bought this because I installed an Android radio that had Apple CarPlay on a 2016 Mercedes Benz E350 with a NTG5 unit. The car stereo does not have an Aux Port nor the Media Interface, the car connects to my phone via bluetooth or using the USB connector inside the center console USB1 or USB2. The Android unit I bought needed to connect to either USB1 or USB2 inside the console with a converter coming out of the Android Unit with the Red and White (L and R audio) converting to an AUX tip. This AUX tip connected to another converter from AUX to USB, in order to get sound to the factory car stereo. I got sound, but it has this loud humming/buzzing sound. I initially thought I should buy the AUX Isolator, but after disconnecting the the AUX tip from the AUX to USB converter, the humming/buzzing sound was still present. That's how I knew I needed a USB isolator. Hope this tip works for anyone adding an Android head unit to their car.

Wow, this actually did the exact thing it advertised, I was so skeptical. If USB interference from you computer is your issue, this should fix it.Quick version:I tried; ferrite ring cores (zero difference), ground loop isolators on my audio cables (zero difference), connecting to different outlets and surge protectors (zero difference), different USB cables/ports (zero difference), but this worked immediately and I can't get interference if I tried.I was getting heavy feedback in my studio monitors (Yamaha HS5's powered by an UA Volt 1 interface) but it had nothing to do with EMI or the interconnects. The interference sounded like all my mouse movements and applications running (especially GPU intensive apps) would come through the speakers in a mid-to-high pitch buzz. After a process of elimination, I was able to isolate the issue to my PC's USB ports having really intense isolation issues. Connecting to my laptop didn't produce any interference, so I knew it was my desktop. This is a custom built PC with a fairly high-end $590 ASUS motherboard (Crosshair VIII Impact), but I'm guessing the small form factor or perhaps grounding on my case (DAN Case C4-SFX) makes isolating the USB traces challenging. The audio ports are super well isolated, so it's interesting that the USB ports aren't.My equipment...• Audio Interface: Universal Audio Volt 1 (using included USB cable)• Speakers: Yamaha HS5 Studio Monitors x2 (using 1/4" TS male-to-male shielded cables by Livewire)• Computer: custom built PC with ASUS Crosshair VIII Impact motherboard (using onboard USB ports)

This solved the grounding issue between my PC and CNC plasma table that kept the torch from firing.

I have a 3090, and a fire face interface... the static and artifacts were unbelievable. I'm an audio guy so i looked into the 500$ versions. Figured id start here and see what happened. I'm now DEAD silent. THANK YOU!!!Update: Its 2 months or so later and its starting to hiss.

Tried a more expensive different brand and it was not reliable. This device provides the desired isolation and supports the speed I needed.

Tried everything - from expensive RME and Steinberg audio interfaces to a cheap ancient usb audio card circa 2010. "Windows cannot recognize your USB device". While the "isolator" is alive - at least red led light in it, which probably means: "I'm isolating you from your USB port functionality".Worst purchase of the year.

this works with my icom ic-7300, where the usb port does both cv-i and cat for digital mode. seems to be fast enough at usb 2.0. needed to isolate the radio's port since it' s easy to blow out, but not covered under warranty if that happens. so $50 for the isolator vs $150 plus shipping for a repair. choose wisely.