Super PDR Light Board PDR Light Dent Line Board LED PDR Light USB Battery Powered Reflection Light Board Professional Dent Repair Tool Automotive Repair Lighting PDR Reflection Tool Car Body Repair

This is a great kit that includes everything you need to repair nicks and dings on your vehicle. It comes with a variety of attachment heads in different sizes and shapes, making it versatile enough to handle all kinds of situations. The size and location of the dings will determine which pulling method works best for you. The kit includes a standard hot glue gun and glue sticks to attach the pulling points. The dent puller with a squeeze handle or the bridge puller is ideal for smaller dings. For larger dings, you'll need to use multiple pulling points, or you can opt for the suction cup puller, the T-handle puller, or the slide hammer, which are better suited for bigger dents. If you're dealing with a large ding, you can start with the T-handle or slide hammer to pop the dent out, then switch to the bridge puller or squeeze handle for fine-tuning. The kit also includes a handy reflector board that quickly reveals any depressions or raised areas that need attention. There's a small hammer with a protected head for evening out high points on the surface, and an air pillow that could be useful for dents in areas like lower door panels—just inflate it behind the dent to help with the repair. The kit comes with a straightforward instruction booklet that provides a step-by-step guide for fixing dings, and a squirt bottle for alcohol, which is needed to remove the hot glue after the repair. Keep in mind that if your car is in direct sunlight, the hot surface might prevent the glue from holding properly, so it's best to work in a shaded area or a garage. Overall, this is a convenient kit for fixing dings at home and saving money.

Impressive for the price. Very bright light, the base is solid and the arm needs stern pressure to bend/adjust. The on/off/adjust button is touch sensitive. The lines are straight and bold. The lighting area face is 6inch by 12 inches. Very excited to use this!

Very fast shipping. Double boxed. Works as designed. Other say the three-level light isn't that bright. If you are not working in direct sunlight, you won't need the light on. The reflection of the lines on the vehicle will be more than enough to see the dent imperfections. Comes with a high-capacity 18650 rechargeable battery that you can recharge when you plug the unit into any USB power supply. Unit is made of lightweight plastic but feels durable. Easy to install and use. A cost-effective solution to see a dent and remove it. Unit is about the size of a large tablet and is easy to manipulate. A good choice for your dent removal needs.

The light is useful when you can get it to work. I put in a 18560 cell and plugged in to charge. There appears to be no charging capability. So attached USB cable to a power pack. Even though the power pack was fully charged the light kept cutting out. When it works it does a great job showing you low and high spots. But the one I got didn't work most of the time so I gave up using it. The glue gun didn't work from the get go. I already had a glue gun and used mine instead. The lifter works well if you can get it onto the glue tabs. The bolt holding the mechanical parts of the lifter needs to be a little longer. Loosing it enough to get it onto the tab caused the nut to come loose and the spring loaded parts went flying across my yard. The slide hammer works faily well, but it' rather light weight.most of the time you just pull the tabs loose because the glue didn't hold without doing a thing to the dent. The clear yellowish glue worked better than the black. Stuck better than black and black was super hard to revove from vehicle and tabs. If you're working on more than just a few hail dents you're going to need more glue sticks. The pump pad didn't do a thing for my dent removal job on a rear fender. The orange sucti9n cup thing was useless. I wound up using mostly the slide hammer, yellow glue with only a few useful tabs to pull dents, and the punch with hammer to tap down the high spots. Save your money and just get these items with a decent glue gun instead of buying this kit with mostly unusable parts. BTW, PDR is hard. It takes practice and skill. Knowing where to put the glue tabs and knowing how hard to pull to avoud making high spots than have to be hammered back down. There' also some dents with sharp creases that this kit just won't get no matter what.

PROBLEM: Our car had 5 fairly prominent body dings: Driver door (1), trunk lid (1), driver side rear wheel well (3). THIS TOOL: Product came packed extremely neatly and carefully. Very professional kit and includes a fairly complete set of the stuff you need. PROCESS: Degrease the dented area with alcohol. Attach one or more of the provided tabs onto the door with hot glue. Wait a few minutes for the glue to cool Use the gold anodized puller tool to exert a smooth steady outward grasp on the tab and pull the dent. HINT 1: Eventually, the glue fails, leaving a glob of hot glue on the car, but (hopefully) a smaller dent than before. You may need to repeat this process 2 or 3 times per dent.) HINT 2: The hardest part of the whole process is getting the glob of hard glue gun glop off the car once you finish HINT 3: Even glue removal is not that difficult. In between pulls, just get most of It using the scraper tool. HINT 4: I found that if I coat the blob with liquid car wax, scraped off bits do not smear around and adhere again. Like using peanut butter to remove chewing gum, the wax prevents the chunks from reattaching. Wipe again with alcohol afterward to ensure the next tab will stick. HINT 5: Some dents may pull out beyond flush. If your hot glue adheres really well, you could actually raise a small lump in the sheet metal. This is not a problem, however....a little hammer is provided and a soft tool you can use to gently pound any proud areas back down. I got them close with the tool and then rubbed a strong heavy cloth-wrapped thumb with firm pressure over the repairs, pressing heavily into the steel. This actually smoothed out the metal almost perfectly. SUMMARY For the most part, this system did a really good job. It pulled every dent outward, improving the looks of each one. DISCLAIMERS 1) We had some dents that were apparently made by some sort of pointy object. Those did not come out 100%, but they still look much shallower 2) Directions are somewhat in Chinglish, but much better organized than most and with great photos.

Genuinely impressed with this all-in-one PDR kit. It’s superb and easy to use, even for someone without much experience. The instructions were clear and very helpful, guiding me through the process step by step. With a bit of patience, I was able to iron out the bodyline rear dent on my car, which felt so satisfying! I was quoted ~$1500 at the body shop and this thing helped me save that much money for 90% satisfaction. Pros: Comprehensive all-in-one kit with everything you need to get started. User-friendly design and clear instructions. Works really well if you take your time and have patience. Cons: The hot melt adhesive included runs out way too quickly. If you’re tackling multiple dents, you’ll definitely need to buy extra adhesive sticks separately. Be patient with the hot glue gun and let it reach the optimal temperature before the adhesive starts melting. Overall, this kit is a fantastic investment for DIYers, but make sure to stock up on extra adhesive to avoid interruptions!

The kit is great for the $ and you can usually catch a sale or coupon. The kit itself is good quality, nothing feels super cheap; full disclosure I have not got around to using a lot of the kit just yet. If you're just starting out, this is a great starting point and will go a long way for getting out smaller dents. Funny enough, I tried the suction cup on a large panel dent on my father's truck bed and popped it right out and the cup actually stuck really well, despite my expectations for that particular tool anyway. It comes with two types of adhesive sticks to get you started and the glue gun is perfectly fine and would compare to any budget craft store one. I have read that the glue tabs do break and this upsets people but they need to understand that they are not necessarily designed to be used multiple times no matter how much you spend on them. You can likely find packs of them by themselves relatively inexpensively and should plan on that if you have several dents you plan to work on or some really creased dents with hard lines, as those are going to require a lot more force to begin to work out.

The instructions talk about 2 types of glue "clear" and "yellow". The included glue was transparent amber, and opaque white. If you can match those up, you exceed my ability. And there was no indication which brand of glue they were. I did a lot of reading about glue color. I bought 2 more kinds of glue. Again transparent amber (are different brands different?) and black, Between all these glues, the white was very weak. The amber was medium, and the black was stronger. But, I learned the hard way, that the temperature conditions affect which glue you want to use. On warm days, I needed the black to stick with some actual strength. On cooler days, the amber was occasionally useful. But on the cooler days, I could barely get the black residue back off the car. If it stuck at all (was more "brittle" on cooler days). I did a lot of reading about tab color. Supposedly different colors perform differently. The kit included black, pink/red and blue. I couldn't tell any difference in performance. I also tried different sizes, shapes and surface textures. I generally found that more texture held the glue better. And that the shape needed to more-so match the dent. That seems obvious, but when pulling a bigger dent, you don't get the whole thing in one pull. You do it is "sections" so to speak, generally from the edges into the middle. 40% of the time, the glue let go of the tab. 40% of the time, the glue let of of the car. 5% of the time, the tab broke. 5% of the time, I actually got a pull that moved some steel. All-in-all I had the best luck with the linear tabs. Bigger, more surface area resulting in better glue adhesion to both the car and the tab. I tried to pull out about 1 dozen small-ish hail dents. I tried each spot about 6 times, different size, color, shape and surface-texture tabs, and different glues. I used both the slide hammer and the bridge puller. I got 1 hail-dent out, and 2 more 1/2 out. Hail-dent removal - FAIL. I had damage that ranged from minor to extensive, on the one side. This is why I bought the kit to begin with. As long as I had the kit, I tried the hail pocks, but that was secondary. The worst damage included what are called "creases". Accomplished nothing at all with these "bad" dents (with the PDR). I bought and used a quarter panel puller, with a "come along". This accomplished 90% of what I actually got done. When this pulling got all it could, I decided to just fill the rest with "Bondo Glass". The car is 27 years old. I'm not looking for "like new". Just "decent for an old car, from 10 feet away". I did get minor damage out of the one door, mostly with the linear PDR tabs and the come-along. I had to buy some eye screws to attach to the liner tab-puller adapter (intended to be use with the slide hammer) in order to pull with the come-along. This small success is why I gave 2 stars instead of 1. I had tried to use the slide hammer quite a lot, in all different situations. But accomplished only a little with it. The slide hammer was poor. The chrome scraped off the rod, just from trying to use it. The "tee" handle and tab couplers would not stay tightly screwed on. Very annoying. The adapters did not stay well engaged with the tabs. And I managed to pinch myself with the slide. The little squeegee thing to help get glue remnants off the car was difficult to use. I had both 99% isopropyl alcohol and denatured alcohol. Some times one seemed better than the other. But neither was consistently good. In one case I could not get the glue off the car, and resorted to acetone. It was only slightly better. In the end, I "scuffed" the paint with the squeegee. Hrumph. BE AWARE that the line board is a BOARD not a light. If you watch a lot of PDR (paintless dent repair) YouTubes you will see the proper use of line lights. A line board is slightly better than nothing, but not even close to a light. In my case, I didn't care, I was not going for anywhere near that level of perfection. But I did not realize it was a board, not a light, till I received the kit. I used the knock-down tool a little. BE AWARE this needs to be very subtle work. I did push down a high spot, but introduces very small divots in the process. This is on me - beginner lack-of skill. I can't really rate the knock-down tool, I didn't use it enough. I'm guessing, if used properly, it is OK. I also can't comment on different tip materials, these were hard plastic. I don't think the average person will have much luck with PDR. I can't imagine a different kit would matter. I did notice that professional slide hammers, and metal (not plastic) tabs are MONDO expensive. And, the pros have pulling towers and/or "pogo" sticks. And presumably they know what they are doing. But, if you have an OLD car like mine, and want to experiment, and don't mind spending some money to see what happens (good, bad, or ugly) ... ... go for it. That is what I did. Not sure what situations (if any) might entice me to get the kit out again, in the future.

Easy to use and works great

Silverado 2009, golpeada de granizo, pensé que quitaría las abolladuras, de todo lo que viene solo me sirvió la siliconera, el martillo, cincel y la franela, lo de más realmente no me funcionó o no supe usar las herramientas, terminé empastado y repintando el daño de la camioneta

Cumplió con todo en excelentes condiciones y muy bien empaquetado

👌

lo que no me gusto es el cobro de suscripcion sin mi autorizacion de 99 pesos