---
product_id: 72636051
title: "MA170+ 2-Channel Auto Home Cycle Arcade DIY 2 x 18 W Mini Amplifier Bass Treble RCA Input Audio Mini Amplifier with 12V 3A Power Supply Black"
brand: "kinter"
price: "B/.96"
currency: PAB
in_stock: true
reviews_count: 9
category: "Kinter"
url: https://www.desertcart.com.pa/products/72636051-ma170-2-channel-auto-home-cycle-arcade-diy-2-x
store_origin: PA
region: Panama
---

# Pulsating RGB LEDs 2 x 18W stereo output Adjustable bass & treble MA170+ 2-Channel Auto Home Cycle Arcade DIY 2 x 18 W Mini Amplifier Bass Treble RCA Input Audio Mini Amplifier with 12V 3A Power Supply Black

**Brand:** kinter
**Price:** B/.96
**Availability:** ✅ In Stock

## Summary

> 🎶 Elevate your sound game with style and power — don’t get left in silence!

## Quick Answers

- **What is this?** MA170+ 2-Channel Auto Home Cycle Arcade DIY 2 x 18 W Mini Amplifier Bass Treble RCA Input Audio Mini Amplifier with 12V 3A Power Supply Black by kinter
- **How much does it cost?** B/.96 with free shipping
- **Is it available?** Yes, in stock and ready to ship
- **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.com.pa](https://www.desertcart.com.pa/products/72636051-ma170-2-channel-auto-home-cycle-arcade-diy-2-x)

## Best For

- kinter enthusiasts

## Why This Product

- Trusted kinter brand quality
- Free international shipping included
- Worldwide delivery with tracking
- 15-day hassle-free returns

## Key Features

- • **Visual Vibes:** Dynamic color-changing LEDs add a sleek, modern flair to your workspace or arcade setup.
- • **Robust & Ready:** Durable extruded aluminum housing with mounting tabs ensures easy installation and lasting performance.
- • **Tailor Your Sound:** Fine-tune bass and treble effortlessly for a personalized, immersive listening experience.
- • **Powerful Stereo Punch:** Delivers crisp 2 x 18W output to energize your audio setup with clarity and depth.
- • **Plug & Play Convenience:** Includes 12V 3A power supply and RCA inputs compatible with most analog audio sources—no Bluetooth needed.

## Overview

The Kinter MA170+ is a compact 2-channel mini amplifier delivering 2 x 18 watts of stereo power through RCA inputs. Featuring adjustable bass and treble controls, pulsating RGB LEDs, and a sturdy aluminum chassis with mounting tabs, it’s designed for versatile use in home, arcade, or DIY audio projects. Powered by a 12V 3A supply, it offers reliable analog amplification without wireless connectivity.

## Description

Buy Kinter MA170+ 2-Channel Auto Home Cycle Arcade DIY 2 x 18 W Mini Amplifier Bass Treble RCA Input Audio Mini Amplifier with 12V 3A Power Supply Black: Amplifiers - desertcart.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

Review: Bought new - SENT REFURBISHED UNIT! - UPDATE #2, April 7, 2024: I am bumping this to 5 Stars, why? Kinter reached out to me and offered a FULL REFUND of my Amp, Kinter MA170. I didn't expect any sort of refund, after all, the unit was Waaaay past the 30 day return window. However, Kinter DID NOT want me to return it, apologized for the error of my getting a refurbished unit and not a new one. I actually told them I didn't expect or even want a full refund, but would accept a 50% refund, so after a message or 2 between Kinter and myself, Kinter gave me a 100% refund. This was, and is way above your normal customer service, it shows me Kinter cares about their product line, and their customers satisfaction. I also told Kinter what the main cause of the issue causing the Amp to randomly turn off/on, or just shut down was, that the Amp heatsink was too long, that it needed to be shimmed down by 2/32 of an inch to prevent contact with the Amp IC leads. Kinter also stated they upgraded the Amp IC, which is a little smaller, but they still used the same heatsink from the older Amp IC. And the person I messaged with is also passing my heatsink fix on to the manufacturer for implentation. Hence the shorting issue that occurred in my Amp, that caused the issues I had will be corrected. Which I had fixed, info on the fix can be found in my April 1, 2024 UPDATE below. So, this is why I am bumping my review of the Amp to 5 stars. Also, after correcting the oversized heatsink, so it no longer made contact with the Amp IC leads, I let my Amp operate continually in my shed for 6 days NON-STOP, in those 6 days, the Amp operated 100% normally, no drop outs, no shut downs, no random going off/on. Now that my fix is in place, the Amp has functioned far exceeding my expectations. So, yes, I can recommend this Amp and this Seller. Top notch 1st rate customer service that was above and beyond. ======= END April 7, 2024 UPDATE #2 ======= UPDATE April 1, 2024: I am bumping this up to 3 stars, mainly due to I found the PRIMARY ISSUE causing many of these units to stop working, or going off/on randomly when music is being output through the amp. And it is a simple fix, but WILL REQUIRE you to open the unit and take it apart, and I'll tell you what I found, and what I did to correct the issue. I removed all 10 screws, 4 from back panel, 4 on front panel, 2 screws from right side[these screws are a different size and type, they secure the main case housing through the amp IC heatsink, don't mix them up with the other 8 screws that hold the back and front faceplates to the main case!] You'll need to remove all knobs to access the securing nut on each, the main volume knob nut is recessed and will require a deep socket, or long needle nose pliars[I used needle nose pliars] to remove it[and the other nuts on the Bass and Treble components], beware, once you remove the nuts, the Bass and Treble knobs have a securing ring[slips on/off] on them behind the faceplate. Don't lose them, you'll need to put them back on the Bass and Treble knobs BEFORE reinstalling the faceplate over the shafts. Do this step[remove knobs and retaining nuts] PRIOR to removing the screws that holds the faceplate on. Once the nut has been removed from the volume control, slide the clear plastic ring off the shaft, there are 2 small protrusions on the back of this plastic piece, either one fits over the power indicator RGB color changing L.E.D. to hold it in place properly. Once opened you can change out this L.E.D. for any color L.E.D. you'd like to use, just make sure the polarity matches correctly + to +, - to -, or remove the L.E.D. entirely, your choice. Now remove the 4 screws holding the faceplate to the main casing, if you have already removed the 4 back screws, and now have the front faceplate removed, gently slide, by pushing the entire assembly minus faceplate out the back of the main case. You'll see a metal casing over the Amp IC, this is the heatsink that screws to the main casing. And this heatsink is what caused my unit to initially fail! After touching up some of the solder areas, I tested the Amp, but forgot to place the heatsink back over the Amp IC. The Amp played for over an hour, no issues UNTIL I realized I had not placed the heatsink back over the Amp IC, as soon as I put the heatsink on, less than a few seconds the Amp started randomly going off/on, or completely off, started up all over again. I used the needle nose pliars to place, and remove the heatsink. Okay, issue is back...why? I found the heatsink was making contact with the EXPOSED METAL LEADS of the Amp IC. I got out my dremel tool and shimmed the heatsink down 2/32" at ONLY THE AREA THAT COVERS THE AMP IC! DO NOT SHIM THE WINGS WHERE THE SCREW HOLES ARE! So, I took my dremel tool[adjustable speed, set it at #1 on the dial] and then ground off 2/32 of an inch of metal off the [open area that slides down over the Amp IC] heatsink, replaced the heatsink, no more random onn/off, no more Amp turning off all sound. Chances are THIS IS THE MAIN PROBLEM many users are having with this Amp cutting off/on, then going completely silent, but the power L.E.D. still shows power to the Amp. If you're not comfortable soldering, or using power tools to do this, find a friend, or pay someone to do this for you. But, if you have an Amp malfunctioning like this, this may get it working again, providing the heatsink shorting the Amp IC hasn't destroyed it. Fortunately I caught this early in my testing, and was able to resolve it before the Amp IC was destroyed. As of this update, and after shimming the heatsink down, so it can no longer make contact with the bare metal leads of the Amp IC, the Amp has been working perfectly 100% for over 9 hours straight and no problems at all, and inside a very hot storage shed, about 97°-100° in there today[no windows, no ventilation and door closed]. If the heatsink was shimmed down by 2/32 of an inch at the manufacturing facility, and/or the Amp IC's leads had been covered so the heatsink couldn't create a short, I probably would have never taken my Amp apart to fix this issue, as it, in all probability may not have ever happened! If it wasn't for my having to fix this issue, I'd have probably rated this Amp 5 stars, but it gets 3 stars, it works, but only BECAUSE I FOUND, and FIXED the problem! I hope this info may help some of those experiencing these same issues get their Amp back up and operational again. ≈========/ End April 1, 2024 Update ========= Unfortunately my return window closed a long while back[bought this at end of Dec. 2023] and just now got around to testing it out, and I connected everything up for testing BEFORE I mounted this in the enclosure it was be going in with an MP3 Director and FM Transmitter, only the MP3 Director would be connected to the Amp. Well, I set it up using a portable CD player[testing only] to the Amp, and connected the 8-ohm outdoor speakers I use every year for my Holiday Displays. Connected power supplies, turned on Amp, turned on CD Player, turned up volume on Amp, had preset Bass and Treble knobs to center, music played through the Amp, then in LESS THAN 1 MINUTE AFTER TURNING AMP ON, music started going off/on at random, this went on for LESS THAN ANOTHER MINUTE, then the AMP JUST SHUT DOWN COMPLETELY WITH NO SOUND AT ALL. Turned power off and back on, amp played on/off music for LESS THAN 30 SECONDS, and then COMPLETELY SHUT DOWN AGAIN, NO SOUND, just that annoying RGB L.E.D. showing power, but nothing else functioned. Now I was an electronic tech/touch-up and repair person for many years, refurbished many things in my time, and I know what to look for to know if an item has been REFURBISHED, [I NEVER BUY REFURBISHED PRODUCTS, MOST OFTEN THEY FAIL QUICKLY, usually just past their warranty period, some never make it that far, refurbished items ARE NOT Q.C.'ed or tested like new products are(or should be), they are "Quick-Tested", power it on, it works, out it goes for resale, or back to the original customer.] Anyway, I opted to take this unit apart, one of the knob shafts was broken and fixed with a type plastic substance to make the knob hold the button on, when I took the button off for taking this apart, that plastic used was white, shaft was black!, and this substance cracked and splintered some. That's one tale-tell sign of a refurbished hack job, the component should have been replaced, not a jury rig fix. Missing solder on solder pads that may be used to hold components in place to prevent damage from movement was also noticable on the circuit board, very poor Q.C., even for a Quick Turn-Around repair. After, I took it apart, did some resoldering to many components, and used a computer fan to keep the amp component cool, it seems to work. But I shouldn't have to be modifying this unit! Before I reassemble it, I'm going to replace that damn annoying color changing L.E.D. to a white one, so it can supply some light inside the outdoor enclosure, so, when opened after dark to make changes, I'll have some lighting, as my lighting controller[the MP3 Director] and FM Transmitter will also be inside. I will also see if there is enough room to install a small cooling fan inside the amps case and drill holes for it to push any excessive heat out to hopefully keep it functional. But because I DID NOT RECEIVE A BRAND NEW UNIT, was sent a REFURBISHED ONE. REFURBISHED UNITS ARE SUPPOSED TO BE IDENTIFIED with a tag or sticker stating this fact! . And from reading many of the reviews that also bring these same issues up, sounds like they got a REFURBISHED unit, just like I did, and NOT A NEW UNIT! Very disappointed in this purchase, especially since I have to try and repair it, and "hope it works", and "hopefully, will last for many years" after I fix problems that should not have been here in the first place!
Review: Good value for a sweet little amp - I'm a somewhat novice musician using a 25-watt guitar amplifier that connects to my DAW (Digital Audio Workstation) via USB for recording my playing. I needed a way to connect some studio speakers thru the DAW that do not have their own power. This small amplifier does just that. Inputs to the amp for my usage are from one of two sources: my laptop headphone jack or the RCA output jacks of my Behringer UM2 audio interface. Either method drives the speakers quite well. Speakers, BTW, are a pair salvaged from an old unused CD stereo system. So when I'm playing guitar, the output of my DAW is now being heard through the Kinter whether I'm playing through the guitar amp or the UM2. I just have to manually switch cables. The tone controls provide some impact upon output tone but I have other tone control measures at my disposal. The LED is not the least annoying to me as the amp is mostly not in my line of sight. I don't crank the volume up, mostly set at mid-range, and hear no noticeable distortion. The amp stays on most of the day waiting for me to get inspired and pick up the guitar and has not shown any signs of overheating. For now, the Kinter sits atop my guitar amp where access to controls are most convenient. At some point I'll likely find a more permanent location for mounting. Other reviews stated the unit did not last long before dying. So I'm biding my time for a while. I purchased the amp about a month ago. My purchase did arrive with a power supply and in good condition. It does not come with the required audio input cable. I purchased a 10ft RCA male 3.5mm Aux cable to connect to my laptop headphone jack. https://www.desertcart.com/dp/B097DQZJFQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details Overall, I'm very satisfied with the appearance and functionality of the Kinter amp. And the price ($18.99) fit my limited budget.

## Features

- Adjustable bass and treble for lifelike sound
- Pulsating LEDs change color
- Extruded aluminum housing with mounting tabs great for Arcade Sound
- RCA Left and Right inputs
- INCLUDES 12V 3A POWER SUPPLY
- 2 x 18 Watts - Stereo Output for most audio applications
- Please note: This unit accepts RCA Left/Right analog input from most audio sources and does not provide wireless audio input (such as Bluetooth).

## Technical Specifications

| Specification | Value |
|---------------|-------|
| ASIN | B07C1Q1FPT |
| Best Sellers Rank | #29,900 in Electronics ( See Top 100 in Electronics ) #144 in Audio Component Amplifiers |
| Brand | Kinter |
| Date First Available | April 8, 2018 |
| Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
| Item Weight | 8.3 ounces |
| Item dimensions L x W x H | 4.3 x 3.5 x 1.9 inches |
| Item model number | MA170+ |
| Manufacturer | KINTER |
| Material | Aluminum |
| Maximum Supply Voltage | 14.4 Volts (DC) |
| Minimum Supply Voltage | 9 Volts (DC) |
| Mounting Type | Surface Mount |
| Number of Channels | 2 |
| Output Power | 18 Watts |
| Package Type Name | box" or "clamshell" or "blister pack" or "stand-up pouch |
| Product Dimensions | 4.3 x 3.5 x 1.9 inches |
| Specification Met | FCC |
| Supply Current | 3 Amps |
| UPC | 651814994445 |
| Voltage | 12 Volts |

## Product Details

- **Item dimensions L x W x H:** 4.3 x 3.5 x 1.9 inches
- **Manufacturer:** KINTER
- **Maximum Supply Voltage:** 14.4 Volts (DC)
- **Minimum Supply Voltage:** 9 Volts (DC)
- **Voltage:** 12 Volts

## Images

![MA170+ 2-Channel Auto Home Cycle Arcade DIY 2 x 18 W Mini Amplifier Bass Treble RCA Input Audio Mini Amplifier with 12V 3A Power Supply Black - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/81qjz47QdvL.jpg)

## Questions & Answers

**Q: I'm getting white mouse only when i connect the two input channels. if i only use one, the audio comes out ok from the speakers.anyone know why?**
A: Do you mean white noise?  I am going to assume it was a type.  If you troubleshoot both inputs as in moving the working channel from L to R and vise versa and both channels work with one wire, do the same from the source.  Make sure it is not the source.  Try a different device. I mean this is sort of basic troubleshooting.  If you find the problem still does not go away , then you have a bad unit and you need to exchange it.

**Q: Can you somehow connect a bluetooth speaker to this amplifier or to any other hifi amplifier for that matter?**
A: As shown in Amazon, the unit has RCA plugs for L & R inputs and four output Speaker terminals for L (+-) and R (+/-).  Speakers may be connected to these output terminals. N.B. The output L and R channels may NOT share ANY terminals in common. The amplifier knows nothing about Bluetooth operations.

**Q: Where is my powersupply!?!?!**
A: Mine didn’t come with a power supply either. I contacted amazon to correct the issue. It was a simple mix up since they sell the exact same amp, with and without the power supply. They sent a whole new amp and power supply.

**Q: can you split the wire between left and right PC speakers and hook to terminal on this amp?**
A: If you mean pos left and pos right out of the pc and a common ground to the inputs...yes but since there is amplification from the pc you amp range of the devise might be limited and some distortion in higher volume

## Customer Reviews

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Bought new - SENT REFURBISHED UNIT!
*by C***A on March 31, 2024*

UPDATE #2, April 7, 2024: I am bumping this to 5 Stars, why? Kinter reached out to me and offered a FULL REFUND of my Amp, Kinter MA170. I didn't expect any sort of refund, after all, the unit was Waaaay past the 30 day return window. However, Kinter DID NOT want me to return it, apologized for the error of my getting a refurbished unit and not a new one. I actually told them I didn't expect or even want a full refund, but would accept a 50% refund, so after a message or 2 between Kinter and myself, Kinter gave me a 100% refund. This was, and is way above your normal customer service, it shows me Kinter cares about their product line, and their customers satisfaction. I also told Kinter what the main cause of the issue causing the Amp to randomly turn off/on, or just shut down was, that the Amp heatsink was too long, that it needed to be shimmed down by 2/32 of an inch to prevent contact with the Amp IC leads. Kinter also stated they upgraded the Amp IC, which is a little smaller, but they still used the same heatsink from the older Amp IC. And the person I messaged with is also passing my heatsink fix on to the manufacturer for implentation. Hence the shorting issue that occurred in my Amp, that caused the issues I had will be corrected. Which I had fixed, info on the fix can be found in my April 1, 2024 UPDATE below. So, this is why I am bumping my review of the Amp to 5 stars. Also, after correcting the oversized heatsink, so it no longer made contact with the Amp IC leads, I let my Amp operate continually in my shed for 6 days NON-STOP, in those 6 days, the Amp operated 100% normally, no drop outs, no shut downs, no random going off/on. Now that my fix is in place, the Amp has functioned far exceeding my expectations. So, yes, I can recommend this Amp and this Seller. Top notch 1st rate customer service that was above and beyond. ======= END April 7, 2024 UPDATE #2 ======= UPDATE April 1, 2024: I am bumping this up to 3 stars, mainly due to I found the PRIMARY ISSUE causing many of these units to stop working, or going off/on randomly when music is being output through the amp. And it is a simple fix, but WILL REQUIRE you to open the unit and take it apart, and I'll tell you what I found, and what I did to correct the issue. I removed all 10 screws, 4 from back panel, 4 on front panel, 2 screws from right side[these screws are a different size and type, they secure the main case housing through the amp IC heatsink, don't mix them up with the other 8 screws that hold the back and front faceplates to the main case!] You'll need to remove all knobs to access the securing nut on each, the main volume knob nut is recessed and will require a deep socket, or long needle nose pliars[I used needle nose pliars] to remove it[and the other nuts on the Bass and Treble components], beware, once you remove the nuts, the Bass and Treble knobs have a securing ring[slips on/off] on them behind the faceplate. Don't lose them, you'll need to put them back on the Bass and Treble knobs BEFORE reinstalling the faceplate over the shafts. Do this step[remove knobs and retaining nuts] PRIOR to removing the screws that holds the faceplate on. Once the nut has been removed from the volume control, slide the clear plastic ring off the shaft, there are 2 small protrusions on the back of this plastic piece, either one fits over the power indicator RGB color changing L.E.D. to hold it in place properly. Once opened you can change out this L.E.D. for any color L.E.D. you'd like to use, just make sure the polarity matches correctly + to +, - to -, or remove the L.E.D. entirely, your choice. Now remove the 4 screws holding the faceplate to the main casing, if you have already removed the 4 back screws, and now have the front faceplate removed, gently slide, by pushing the entire assembly minus faceplate out the back of the main case. You'll see a metal casing over the Amp IC, this is the heatsink that screws to the main casing. And this heatsink is what caused my unit to initially fail! After touching up some of the solder areas, I tested the Amp, but forgot to place the heatsink back over the Amp IC. The Amp played for over an hour, no issues UNTIL I realized I had not placed the heatsink back over the Amp IC, as soon as I put the heatsink on, less than a few seconds the Amp started randomly going off/on, or completely off, started up all over again. I used the needle nose pliars to place, and remove the heatsink. Okay, issue is back...why? I found the heatsink was making contact with the EXPOSED METAL LEADS of the Amp IC. I got out my dremel tool and shimmed the heatsink down 2/32" at ONLY THE AREA THAT COVERS THE AMP IC! DO NOT SHIM THE WINGS WHERE THE SCREW HOLES ARE! So, I took my dremel tool[adjustable speed, set it at #1 on the dial] and then ground off 2/32 of an inch of metal off the [open area that slides down over the Amp IC] heatsink, replaced the heatsink, no more random onn/off, no more Amp turning off all sound. Chances are THIS IS THE MAIN PROBLEM many users are having with this Amp cutting off/on, then going completely silent, but the power L.E.D. still shows power to the Amp. If you're not comfortable soldering, or using power tools to do this, find a friend, or pay someone to do this for you. But, if you have an Amp malfunctioning like this, this may get it working again, providing the heatsink shorting the Amp IC hasn't destroyed it. Fortunately I caught this early in my testing, and was able to resolve it before the Amp IC was destroyed. As of this update, and after shimming the heatsink down, so it can no longer make contact with the bare metal leads of the Amp IC, the Amp has been working perfectly 100% for over 9 hours straight and no problems at all, and inside a very hot storage shed, about 97°-100° in there today[no windows, no ventilation and door closed]. If the heatsink was shimmed down by 2/32 of an inch at the manufacturing facility, and/or the Amp IC's leads had been covered so the heatsink couldn't create a short, I probably would have never taken my Amp apart to fix this issue, as it, in all probability may not have ever happened! If it wasn't for my having to fix this issue, I'd have probably rated this Amp 5 stars, but it gets 3 stars, it works, but only BECAUSE I FOUND, and FIXED the problem! I hope this info may help some of those experiencing these same issues get their Amp back up and operational again. ≈========/ End April 1, 2024 Update ========= Unfortunately my return window closed a long while back[bought this at end of Dec. 2023] and just now got around to testing it out, and I connected everything up for testing BEFORE I mounted this in the enclosure it was be going in with an MP3 Director and FM Transmitter, only the MP3 Director would be connected to the Amp. Well, I set it up using a portable CD player[testing only] to the Amp, and connected the 8-ohm outdoor speakers I use every year for my Holiday Displays. Connected power supplies, turned on Amp, turned on CD Player, turned up volume on Amp, had preset Bass and Treble knobs to center, music played through the Amp, then in LESS THAN 1 MINUTE AFTER TURNING AMP ON, music started going off/on at random, this went on for LESS THAN ANOTHER MINUTE, then the AMP JUST SHUT DOWN COMPLETELY WITH NO SOUND AT ALL. Turned power off and back on, amp played on/off music for LESS THAN 30 SECONDS, and then COMPLETELY SHUT DOWN AGAIN, NO SOUND, just that annoying RGB L.E.D. showing power, but nothing else functioned. Now I was an electronic tech/touch-up and repair person for many years, refurbished many things in my time, and I know what to look for to know if an item has been REFURBISHED, [I NEVER BUY REFURBISHED PRODUCTS, MOST OFTEN THEY FAIL QUICKLY, usually just past their warranty period, some never make it that far, refurbished items ARE NOT Q.C.'ed or tested like new products are(or should be), they are "Quick-Tested", power it on, it works, out it goes for resale, or back to the original customer.] Anyway, I opted to take this unit apart, one of the knob shafts was broken and fixed with a type plastic substance to make the knob hold the button on, when I took the button off for taking this apart, that plastic used was white, shaft was black!, and this substance cracked and splintered some. That's one tale-tell sign of a refurbished hack job, the component should have been replaced, not a jury rig fix. Missing solder on solder pads that may be used to hold components in place to prevent damage from movement was also noticable on the circuit board, very poor Q.C., even for a Quick Turn-Around repair. After, I took it apart, did some resoldering to many components, and used a computer fan to keep the amp component cool, it seems to work. But I shouldn't have to be modifying this unit! Before I reassemble it, I'm going to replace that damn annoying color changing L.E.D. to a white one, so it can supply some light inside the outdoor enclosure, so, when opened after dark to make changes, I'll have some lighting, as my lighting controller[the MP3 Director] and FM Transmitter will also be inside. I will also see if there is enough room to install a small cooling fan inside the amps case and drill holes for it to push any excessive heat out to hopefully keep it functional. But because I DID NOT RECEIVE A BRAND NEW UNIT, was sent a REFURBISHED ONE. REFURBISHED UNITS ARE SUPPOSED TO BE IDENTIFIED with a tag or sticker stating this fact! . And from reading many of the reviews that also bring these same issues up, sounds like they got a REFURBISHED unit, just like I did, and NOT A NEW UNIT! Very disappointed in this purchase, especially since I have to try and repair it, and "hope it works", and "hopefully, will last for many years" after I fix problems that should not have been here in the first place!

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Good value for a sweet little amp
*by M***S on February 22, 2023*

I'm a somewhat novice musician using a 25-watt guitar amplifier that connects to my DAW (Digital Audio Workstation) via USB for recording my playing. I needed a way to connect some studio speakers thru the DAW that do not have their own power. This small amplifier does just that. Inputs to the amp for my usage are from one of two sources: my laptop headphone jack or the RCA output jacks of my Behringer UM2 audio interface. Either method drives the speakers quite well. Speakers, BTW, are a pair salvaged from an old unused CD stereo system. So when I'm playing guitar, the output of my DAW is now being heard through the Kinter whether I'm playing through the guitar amp or the UM2. I just have to manually switch cables. The tone controls provide some impact upon output tone but I have other tone control measures at my disposal. The LED is not the least annoying to me as the amp is mostly not in my line of sight. I don't crank the volume up, mostly set at mid-range, and hear no noticeable distortion. The amp stays on most of the day waiting for me to get inspired and pick up the guitar and has not shown any signs of overheating. For now, the Kinter sits atop my guitar amp where access to controls are most convenient. At some point I'll likely find a more permanent location for mounting. Other reviews stated the unit did not last long before dying. So I'm biding my time for a while. I purchased the amp about a month ago. My purchase did arrive with a power supply and in good condition. It does not come with the required audio input cable. I purchased a 10ft RCA male 3.5mm Aux cable to connect to my laptop headphone jack. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097DQZJFQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details Overall, I'm very satisfied with the appearance and functionality of the Kinter amp. And the price ($18.99) fit my limited budget.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐ Flimsy board connections
*by _***_ on April 28, 2025*

Generally a solid product. Good audio quality, does what it needs to do, small, and easy to set up. If you don't need anything fancy like a remote, it's all you need to pipe stereo RCA audio to some passive speakers. Unfortunately, all of the rear connections are very flimsily connected to the board on the inside. The RCA inputs and speaker inputs mitigate this by being screwed into the backplate, but the power connector lacks any such feature. You wouldn't expect this to be an issue, but on my unit, a less than 24 inch fall from a table to a soft carpeted floor while plugged in was enough to make the power connector port loose. It still generally works, but you sometimes have to play around with the power cable, sometimes just pushing it down and sometimes removing and reconnecting it, to get it working again. The vibration coming from the speakers being on the same table can be enough to knock it out.

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**Shop now:** [https://www.desertcart.com.pa/products/72636051-ma170-2-channel-auto-home-cycle-arcade-diy-2-x](https://www.desertcart.com.pa/products/72636051-ma170-2-channel-auto-home-cycle-arcade-diy-2-x)

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*Product available on Desertcart Panama*
*Store origin: PA*
*Last updated: 2026-02-05*