Brownells Aluma-Hyde II エポキシ系 銃器仕上げ スプレーコーティング 保護塗料 エアゾール缶 340g アースブラウン

I've used this stuff on a few guns, and when it works, it works great. This last time it worked perfect while I was at work on an 870. I gave it a few hours dry time, it felt dry, and foolishly I layed the receiver and barrel on my truck seat and drove home. It wasn't dry enough evidently and left a fabric mark in the paint. So I wait 30 days for it to cure, hit it with some fine sandpaper, and shoot it again. The paint had clogged the can up. In frustration, a few days later I try it again, and the can worked. I was just finishing up and got a splatter, 30 days wait time again before sanding out. This time I put regular camo paint over the top of it. The base coat is Aluma-Hyde, which is very durable, and that is where I left it at. Some of this was my fault, so no complaints, and I'd do it again as this stuff is good.

Despite other reviews claiming poor results, I ordered a can of Aluma-Hyde hoping my experience would be different. It wasn't. The Bad: 1) I followed all directions, shook the can forever then shook some more. Upon spraying, the paint came out very thick and the nozzle intermittently spewed large blobs which made for a splotchy finish. I continued to shake the can every few seconds and occasionally stopped to clean out the nozzle but the blobs continued. 2) Additionally, the overall finish ended up being very grainy, almost sandpaper like even though I wasn't spraying too far from the workpiece which can cause that. Overall it wasn't necessarily a bad thing since I was coating magazines and it added a bit of texture. But if I was trying to coat a receiver? Yeah then I'd be pissed. 3) Color is nowhere close to a darker brown color as shown in the Brownells video. I get it, colors on screen don't always appear the same in real life but this Earth Brown is very close to Magpul FDE. The Good: 1) Durability seems promising. After curing for a few days, I took a paper towel & brake cleaner to see if I could even out some of the splotches. The color didn't seem to run so that's a good sign. 2) Adhesion also seems good. Nothing peeled off right away but then again I prepped the heck out of the parts with degreaser, acetone, etc. Time will tell. 3) Seller sent a message to advise Aluma-Hyde's shelf life is two years and to verify the manufacture date on the can. Mine was May 2024 so it was a fresh can. Overall I wouldn't recommend the product. I've spray painted many a part and this was by far the most disappointing. Krylon/Rustoleum may not be as durable but they both lay on sooo much easier.

I was pretty hesitant on purchasing this for my Canik METE MC9 to try and match the FDE. Well I have to say I lucked out and color accuracy is pretty good. The back strap and the mag filler plate is what I painted. Not too shabby!

The paint itself works well as far as being a good protective coating and goes on well. I'd give it 4.5 starts for that. Everything else is 2 stars or less. I had to buy a drill powered can shaker because it takes 10-15 minutes of shaking it by hand to get it mixed correctly. The tips clog easily and need cleaning after each use or the pattern gets weird until it just seems like it's spraying air. After spraying it needs to bake at 200 degrees for 3-4 hours or you can wait like 2 weeks for it to harden. Using vinyl stencils is a pain because they'll peal on any plastic/ polymer parts attached (like stocks) when you bake them. For me, that wasn't the worst of it. The worst part for me is that after all that effort and added expense, the color is way off from the cap. I bought several colors of the Aluma Hyde to paint a multicam pattern and the Earth Brown, FDE, and OD green are all so similar you can't really see the difference. They all look like that ball of play dough we had as a kid that was a combination of all the colors and ended up looking like mud. I would reccomend this as a base coat ONLY and just use Rustolem for camo colors. Works ok for raw lowers.

I shot a 22" ss bull barrel, a black anodized lower, 3 scope mounts, and some assorted poof. I did it over 2 occasions and used about 60% of a can. I did minimal but reasonable prep: soap and water in the sink, rinse, let dry. Then hung my parts and shot them all with brake cleaner. Came back in half an hour and shot them. 24hrs (well, 20) later I put them in the kitchen over at 195F for 3.5 hours per directions. PERFECT and 99% match for Aero Precision FDE Ceracote. My nozzles didn't clog because I shook the paint like a mad man and when I finished a session I shot them out inverted, then swapped it onto the brake cleaner and shot it that way for a second. Another spit 10 min later. Next session no problem. BTW, the kitchen oven is fine, there is no smell beyond oven smell. This is certified by the oven boss and she hated to admit it. So, basically, victory in all directions.