SCITOO Front Left Driver Side CV Axle Shaft Assembly Fit for INFINITI QX50,for INFINITI QX60,for Nissan Pathfinder 2.0L,3.5L NCV39052

Vehicle: 2019 Infiniti QX60 Luxe AWD Before we get started, if you don't have a serious impact wrench that can put down 600 ft-lbs of torque (minimum), just leave the lug nuts on and figure that out first. An impact driver != impact wrench. If whatever you have is made to accept 1/4" screwdriver bits, you're playing the wrong game. Your tool should accept 1/2" sockets (or larger) without an adapter of any kind. So, be sure you have that under control or you're going to have a bad time. I mean, you can try the breaker bar + hammer method, and it might even work. But don't look surprised when it doesn't. Getting the old one out is the hard part. Once I finally wrestled the old one free, this was a breeze to install. On the particular vehicle, the best approach in my opinion is to remove those two big bolts under the springs and let the knuckle swivel downwards. You don't want to end up fighting with that tie rod. Plus, you have a better chance of knocking your steering out of alignment that way too. Removing those two bolts looks scary, but there shouldn't be any tension on the spring, so it's fine. Once you pull the old one from the transmission, it's going to start leaking transmission fluid. It should be just a trickle, but still you want to get the new one in as quickly as possible. There is nothing you can hit with a hammer in this process. You just have to push that sucker in place with your hand. You can do it. I believe in you. But really though, it shouldn't be *that* difficult. Just make sure you feel and/or hear a click, so you know you got it seated all the way. Also, take this opportunity to observe how brown and used up your transmission fluid is. It should be either green or purple. But yours is brown. That means you get to change the transmission fluid right after you get done here. And if you don't observe any leak at all with the old axle removed, then you can't even test drive your new axle until you at least top off the transmission fluid, but there's a good chance you're due for a full flush + fill anyway. Does the fun never stop? After that, just wrestle the other end through the knuckle and put everything back together. I recommend having a sturdy box or egg crate or something to lay the brake caliper on. And remove the retaining clip on the brake line just behind the caliper, so you've got enough slack to lay it down without putting pressure on the line. The machining on this part is excellent, so you can spin the axle nut on with a flourish that I'm sure your followers will appreciate, even if your dog is your only follower. And that's it. I've been driving on this axle at 80mph for a couple weeks now and it's doing great. No complaints. FYI: This vehicle is very untrusting. You can clear the codes all you want and it won't really clear the codes. Your tool is only clearing the transient codes. Odds are, you've earned yourself one or two "permanent" codes. Those can only be cleared by the dealership or when the computer decides it really believes that the underlying issue has been resolved. So it's going to drive weird for the first 20-30 miles after the replacement. It may even take 100 miles before all of the permanent codes are cleared.