Gwisdom 3D Printer Carbon Glass Heating Bed Platform Construction Surface 235 x 235 mm Heated Bed for 3D Printer Ender 3/3X/3 Pro, CR 20

Heard allot about glass print beds and decided to purchase my own for my ender 3 pro.Installation is as easy as removing the magnetic flexi bed and laying the glass onto the heated bed. Attach four bulldog clips and you’re complete!It is worth noting that the glass is roughly 3mm thick and as such you will almost certainly need to adjust your z stop micro switch higher up the rail raise your z stop height to just above the glass.With that done; levelling took a matter of seconds and I was achieving superb quality first layers!This bed is coated with a layer to aid adhesion and it seems to work well. Letting the bed cool after a print let’s the prints pop of very easily.All in all a superb addition to any creality printer and a must have if you have a warped bed or rough magnetic mat.

Best upgrade I gave to my Ender 3, after using it for a month with PLA and TPU, I got perfect adesion every time, without using any glue or spray thanks to the textured surface.I did use a bit of glue for PETg to prevent cracking the glass due to contraction.

(I have bought 2 of these, one for my ender-3, then again when I replaced it with an ender-5)I was having adhesion issues with the standard creality ender 3 pro plate and magnetic pad, namely my plate was a little bit warped after around 40 hours of printing.It is more expensive than most but thicker, so less likely to crack or flex a tiny bit.It helped but didn't solve my problems. What did fix it in the end was a combination of things:Bed to 60c and preheating for 5+ mins, printing PLA at 200c, making sure the filament was completely dry.Probably 2nd most importantly, not turning off the steppers when levelling, instead using the interface to move in the x-y axes to do the levelling. Sometimes when turning off the steppers the head or bed moves a tiny fraction, which is enough to screw up the levelling job I just did.On my ender-5 I have get it approximately correct, at least in one place it is dead on, then drop the bed 30mm and attach my dial indicator, then move around the x-y axis and adjusting all the match the 'correct point'.Most importantly though, is making sure the bowden tube hasn't allowed any seepage inside the extruder. If you're having major under extrusion, or feed slippage/chewing the filament, it's probably the bowden tube at fault. Direct drive would be nice, but I don't have the budget to upgrade yet. Remove the tube and clean it out, see some videos on YT for details.While levelling and watching the dial while it moves, I could see the plate wasn't the perfectly flat glass I was expecting, but it's pretty close, it prints good, so not bothered.I use Mr. Muscle glass and window cleaner for adhesion, spray some on a rag, then clean the glass while it is preheated. The cleaner evaporates off leaving some residue, this works better for me than a perfectly clean glass.

I've had an Ender 5 Pro for about 12 months now, with the BLTouch self-levelling and feel I have been lucky with my set-up. I've not had (m)any levelling issues - I set it up months ago and the BLTouch does the rest prior to every print. What I did have issues now and again with, was adhesion using the Ender flexi mag plate. tbh It's not been that bad but recently has been a bit of a pain - the slightest bit of fingerprint grease and you've had it. You'll see that the first layer is probably a tiny bit more squashed than it needs to be, so I can probably back that off a little now with the extra stickyness from this new glass bed.It's made an amazing difference. I'm about 6 prints in now of varying lengths (from a couple of hours to 2 x 10+ hr prints) and have only cleaned it once (and that's because I got greasy prints on it trying foolishly to get a print off when it was still fairly warm). I did try to use a scraper VERY CAREFULLY as didn't want to scratch it, the coating does appear to be scratchable as i did put a faint hairline mark on it, so stopped immediately. Instead I used a plastic one and that was fine. Since that first print kerfuffel, I've let the bed cool to room temp and no lie, they literally slide off, its quite bizarre. Something to do with the advertised microporous coating no doubt. Lesson learned, take that as a tip if you want.I can now remove prints, do a quick waft to get dust off it and go straight in for the next. It really is a huge improvement on the mag bed. I print using AMZ3D PLA filament and found the happy spot of 55 bed/205 hot end. Just be careful when mounting with bulldog clips that they don't interfere with the probe and hot end.For 14 quid, it's a no brainer.

The prints stuck like superglue which is perfect when printing them once the bed cooled down the prints just popped off.

Thought i would give this glass bed a try but disappointed as items don't stick that well to it. I have printed this item in the pictures many times and a brim is not required. 2nd photo shows part lifting. 1st photo is showing the item printed on opposite side of glass and using 3DLac spray. Think i will have to stick to my usual method. Dont waste your money. Get a mirror and 3Dlac. Works much better.

It has improved my print quality significantly. Once the plate has cooled a bit it's quite easy to pull the print off. Would recommend to upgrade to this without even bothering to print using the stock Ender magnetic plate

I had my printer set up perfectly, before the original bed ripped. I decided that the glass bed would be a good idea. Unfortunately, it is too thick and regardless of how much and how carefully I tried to adjust it, I could never make it work and have never been able to print anything onto it. I bought a direct replacement for the original and returned to using that but I think the glass has damaged the extruder and I now need to replace that too.