Dorman 905-512 Steering Shaft Bearing Compatible with Select Models

This review is for the Dorman 905-512 steering bearing Perfect fit and I mean PERFECT!!! This solved all the rattling issues on my 2005 Silverado 2500hd. It always felt like the front of the truck was falling apart but after replacing the bearing with this one, it is like new again. I turned the steering wheel to the left until the onstar button was pointing to the floorboard then put my seat belt through the steering wheel and buckled it to hold the steering wheel in place. You do NOT want your steering wheel to turn while it is disconnected. Then, I took the 15mm bolt out if the intermediate steering shaft under the hood, then removed the 15mm bolt from the steering shaft under the dash. I let the steering shaft rest toward the firewall while I worked. It was out of the way enough. I pried the old bearing out with a flat head screwdriver. It was easy to remove. I greased up the new bearing and the steering shaft coming down from the steering wheel. This is the part that gets hard. Once the new bearing was started onto the shaft, I used a rag in my right hand hand and just kept pushing, pulling, twisting and cussing while I was wiggling the steering wheel with my left hand. (DO NOT TURN THE STEERING WHEEL, JUST WIGGLE IT BACK AND FORTH) The rag made it easier to hold the new bearing. While wiggling the steering wheel the bearing is going to move with the shaft but it still made it easier to put on once I started wiggling it. It is a tight space and it takes a LOT of force to get the bearing in place. Just keep pushing and wiggling it until it snaps in. I heard mine snap in. Do not pry it in with a screwdriver, the plastic will break or crack. I'm sure there area tools that make this easier but I only had my hands. Once it was snapped in, I cleaned the grease off the shaft, put the steering shaft back on under the dash and under the hood and put the bolts back on. It took me a total of 20 minutes to change the bearing from beginning to end. Took it for a test drive and no more rattling sound. If you are feeling and hearing a rattling sound, try this part first before replacing your intermediate steering shaft. The rattling is most likely coming from the old factory bearing. You can also get under your dash, grab the steering shaft and shake it, If you can move it and you hear the rattling, it will most likely be your steering bearing. One thing to note! The OLD bearing will have the opening/gap toward the top of the truck, the NEW bearing will have the opening/gap toward the floorboard. There is a small cut out on the right side of the steering column for the tab to go into and the bearing will only fit one way. See attached pictures. Sorry, I didn't get a picture of the old bearing in place before I started.

Fixed the problem and is very easy to install. I was genuinely surprised at what a huge difference this part made. The overall feel thru the steering wheel is like a different vehicle altogether. Now it feels like what it is supposed to feel like but never did since I bought the truck somewhat neglected. Now I can feel what’s actually going on and more accurately assess all the other issues lol. Anyway, neglecting this minor repair really disconnects you from the whole driving experience. If you have that clunk in the steering column at low speed and you cant feel the road anymore, this might be the solution. I just wanted to eliminate the annoying clunking sound and ended up discovered a feeling that I didn’t even know it was capable of.

After watching many videos of people having immense difficulty removing and installing this bearing, I thought I'd leave some feedback on how I did it. First disconnect the upper intermediate steering shaft. To remove the bearing, I used a metal rod about one foot in length and one half inch in diameter. I placed one end of the rod against the flange on the bearing housing, then struck the other end with a hammer. Two solid taps with the hammer and the bearing came right out. The most difficult part of installing the new bearing is getting the bearing lined up perfectly with the shaft. I found that moving the gas pedal out of the way makes this process much simpler, though still a little difficult. To remove the gas pedal, just remove the two nuts holding the gas pedal to the firewall. Then move the pedal out of the way. Once the bearing is started on the shaft don't try to fight it for an hour and scrape your hands all up trying to seat the bearing. Since the upper intermediate shaft is already disconnected, remove the shaft, along with the rubber boot attached to the firewall in the engine bay. You will then be able to use the opening in the firewall to seat the bearing. I used a 34mm deep socket with a 6 inch extension to do this. A smaller diameter socket would have also worked, this is just what I used. The socket just needs to be large enough to go over the steering shaft and deep enough to seat the bearing. Insert the socket, with attached extension, through the opening in the firewall (through the engine bay side) until the socket is over the steering shaft and contacts the bearing housing. Then tap the end of the socket extension with a two pound hammer until the bearing is firmly seated. This took about ten to fifteen taps with the hammer, but I wasn't hitting the extension very hard, as I didn't want to ruin the new bearing. A carpenters hammer will also work if that's all you have. It will just take more effort. Make sure the protrusion at the bearing housing flange is lined up with the slot on the steering column. They will need to be lined up for the bearing housing to fully seat. The protrusion must engage in the slot, or over time the bearing housing will wobble and the bearing will quickly wear out and fail. As for the Dorman steering shaft bearing, it was exactly what I needed to fix the clunking in my steering column. Hope this helps.

Hard to install but fixed my issue. Great product.

Appearance was perfect. Made of good quality, was the perfect fit and easy to install. This item is a must when you’re trying to get rid of that clunking sound in your steering wheel. Stop guessing. Mine drove me crazy for a while until I replaced it. And very glad I did. My steering didn’t change as long as you followed replacing it exactly as removed.

Eliminated steering knock. Read a number of install tips as this bushing has a ball bearing internally which my original had worn out. Most reviews direct install by hand in the footwell area. Mine was very tight - my install method was to place a 11/8 deep socket with an extension (about 12") passing through the firewall boot ( intermediate shaft removed) and tap the extension in the engine compartment driving the bush in place - less than 5 minutes. Update: a number of posts comment how tight the bushing is to install. My impression is that the bearing ( that's the white nylon ring seen in the part image) is tight by design to eliminate knock while turning. The nylon race drops out exposing the ball bearings which have a minimal amount of grease. I brushed on some Mobil 1 general purpose grease then refitted the nylon race. That said, it still is tough to install by hand and I still suggest the deep socket and extension method.

What a miserable piece of garbage. It fell apart during assembly, I popped the plastic bearing back into the plastic housing then installed. The bearing popped out while installed in the first 1000 miles. I wasted my time with this part. I removed it and replaced with a quality aftermarket part from Glenn's Auto Performance. Now my steering column doesn't rattle for life.

I watched someone do this and it was a huge help. Where the steering arm comes through the firewall on the inside of engine cab, take the 3 screws off the arm boot, the bolt off the lower arm freeing a lot of room for the process under the dash. People say use the seat belt to hold the steering wheel but then the seat doesn't give you enough room to work. Take a small strap and strap it down to the passengers door handle. Not to hard to mess the door up but enough so the steering wheel can't move. after removing the other arm under dash lightly pry off the old one note where the ribs are when taking out maybe mark the steering shaft, grease the upper arm and the bearings inside the piece I put more grease on them as they didn't have much. Popped right on bolted back everthing and oh shit one important thing......becareful of when taking the accelorator pedal (makes it easier and it's only 2 nuts) that you put something where the carpet opens up because I dropped 3 nuts way down and the more you chase them the farther they will go. Pain, cuss fest. This thing happens to these trucks but mine is quite now.

Excelente pieza. Le quedo muy bien a mi cheyenne 2002. Mexicana le quito el ruido del volante.

fit really well on my 03 Tahoe, little tricky to get the old bearing out and the new in, plan for an hour to get it done, remove the upper intermediate steering shaft from the steering column, remove the screws that hold the pedals and you‘ll have enoigh room down there to work also add a little extra grease to the bearing, makes it work much longer as there wasn‘t much grease in the bearing itself

Good product! Solved the rattling issue on the steering column. Thanks!

تحل مشكله الاصوات اللي تطلع مع المطبات من تحت الدركسون وداخل المركبه فقط ،يركب على جمس موديل 2006 ،من 2007 واعلى (الشكل الجديد )القطعه نفس الشكل لكن كبيرة

سيء انا طلبت نفس الي بالصورة وصلتني القطعه صينيه لماذا هذا الكذب