BIGTREETECH SKR Mini E3 V2.0 Control Board 32Bit Silent Motherboard Integrated with TMC2209 UART Stepper Motor Driver for Ender 3/V2/3 Pro Ender 5 3D Printer

Purchased a used Ender 3 to repair, had an older Creality 4.2.2 mainboard with the noisy stepper drivers and a failed SD card port.Have run machines with the BTT SKR boards before, but the E3V2 was a direct fit and easy to install.Took ~30 minutes to tip machine over, remove cover and motherboard mounting bolts, swap wires over one by one, and power back up.Please be aware, that the cooling fan on the Ender 3 case plugs into the FAN1 plug, and only spins when the stepper motors are enabled. I was worried I got a dud at first, but make sure to hold off on returning until you home the machine and see the FAN1 turn on.Completely eliminates noise from the machine operation, makign the fans the loudest part of operation.I was able to do a test print immediately after installation without any firmware updates or changes.Would recommend highly, cheaper and just as good if not better than the stock Creality boards.

This is pretty easy to install. It’s durable makes the printer quite I actually forget how load the ender 3 is sometimes. Programming is a bit hard and takes some time if you’re tech savvy you won’t have much of a problem. There is a ton of tutorials and videos out there. If you’re upgrading an Anet A8 you will need the screen to go with this.

Extremely reliable. More reliable than the board that came with my Voron V0 kit, albeit a bit larger. Drivers are absolutely silent and don't seem to heat much and thus don't require active cooling unless you enclose it.

This board worked well for the one print it survived LOL... I wired everything up in my Ender 3 and it worked perfectly for a singular print. I bought two Bambu Lab printers and shelved it for a few months until I had time to tinker with the Ender 3 once more. I found that the X-Axis stepper driver had died when testing movement w/ Klipper. I confirmed this by plugging the X motor into the Y-driver and it worked. I also tested it with a TMC_dump and confirmed that the problem was with the driver. The board itself was fantastic while it worked (silent compared to the stock Creality board) and very easy to plug everything back into (easy to read pinouts and direct plug/play with the Ender 3 stock components), but for it to fail after only one print is a little ridiculous for the cost. I read that the V3 updated some things and that it's common for the V1 and V2 X-Axis to die, but if that's the case they shouldn't even be selling these anymore. Maybe I just got a bad board, but I feel like I wasted money on what otherwise would have been a very nice upgrade. There were no overheating issues to my knowledge, the sd card was easy to use and flash just like a creality board, and I would have liked the extra features (if I was able to use them). I'd suggest getting the V3 as there is quite honestly no point in buying the V2 at this point...

Bought this for my 2020 ender 3 pro, along with their tft35 e3 v3 touchscreen and a genuine bltouch. My printer is so much quieter now. I'd consider this a must-have upgrade for an ender 3 pro. Install wasn't extremely difficult, but there are some things to note.1. Unplugging cables from your stock ender motherboard is a pain because they put hot glue all over the plugs at the factory. You will spend a significant amount of time removing those hot glue blobs before you can unplug all your e-motors and end stop switches. This was probably the most time consuming part of the install for me.2. Swapping the wires from the old motherboard to the new motherboard can be tricky. The main power wires aren't very long so I had to move wires over from the old board to the new board one at a time, with the new board hanging right in front of the old board.3. For firmware you have two options. Either run the latest pre-compiled firmware for your printer from the BTT github(with options for ABL or no ABL) which is as easy as putting the file on an SD card and turning on the printer which auto-installs the firmware from the sd card, or download the latest marlin release source files and edit/compile your own firmware. I won't get in to the details here but editing/compiling your own firmware is much better and you'll end up with firmware that is better tailored to your printer, and you'll have a better baseline to tweak in order to dial in those prints and ABL performance. Plenty of guides and videos out there for editing/compiling marlin firmware, and marlin has a discord with plenty of really helpful folks to give you advice or instructions if you need it.

This board works fine with the ender style 3D printer. It will effectively upgrade which ever version you brought on Facebook marketplace to the newest version with some caveats.Every version of ever 3D printer that I have ever heard of that is in the ender style has a pre made configuration available on GitHub. I highly recommend you pull down your version and compile it your self. There are many YouTube videos that show how todo this, and there is a visual studio application that makes it fairly straightforward.If you install board this you need to verify your bed heater voltage, and you fan voltages. I installed this board and just grabbed version of the firmware I thought was close enough. It was not. I had to replace the bed because i melted the hot end, and all the fans because they were all getting 24v when they were 12v.