Rust-Oleum 238466 Professional Floor Coating Kit, Dunes Tan

Just finished my garage with the Rustoleum Professional Epoxy Shield (SOLVENT based, not the water based junk from HD) and the Premium Clear. Looks amazing.1) As said by others many times before, prep, prep, prep and then prep some more! My garage is about 6 years old and the floor was in really good shape. Only issue I had was with a large oil spot caused by my 2002 civic which likes to mark its territority. I used the Rutoleum degreaser and got a lot of it up but this stuff was really in there. Then I used a product call "Pour-n-Restore". This worked really well and I was surprised how much of the oil it "pulled out" of the concrete.2) I etched my floor with acid but I used the stuff made by Surface Gel Tek. They make a 24% acid solution that is suspended in a gel solution. You actually roll the stuff on with a paint roller. It produce a very uniform profile on the floor that felt like 100~120 grit sand paper. VERY easy to use and much less messy than muratic acid. Only drawback is it is a little pricey, about $70 per gallon and most likely it will have to be shipped to you (very few distributors). Shipping is expensive since it is hazardous materials. Total cost to get 2 gallons was about $180, but I think it made the job MUCH easier and was definitely worth it.3) After etching, washing, etc I let the floor dry for 4 days to be 100% sure it was dry.4) I applied 2 coats of the epoxy shield color about 24 hrs about. Don't try to be cheap and do just 1 coat of the epoxy. You won't be happy with the results. My garage is 440 sq ft. I talked with Rustoleum and the tech said even though they kit says it will cover 500 sq ft in reality the Professional Epoxy kit covers about 350~400 sq ft. So i purchased 4 kits, total of 8 gallons of material. And I am glad I did. No way that 1 kit would have been enough for each coat. Applied the 1st coat "medium" and went very heavy on the 2nd coat. I did not follow the suggestion from Rustoleum to paint in 4x4 sections. I just painted from side to side front to back and made sure to keep a wet edge. I did a medium broadcast of the color chips on top of the 2nd coat. I made a pair of "spike" shoes using two pieces of 1"x4" board and drove drywall screws through it. Then I used duct tape to attach them to a cheap pair of shoes. Worked like a charm and allowed me to easily walk across the wet epoxy to broadcast the chips..5) After 48 hrs I applied 1st coat of the Premium Clear. Stuff goes on very thin and like others have said you have to use a bright light sitting at floor level in order to be able to see where you have painted. I actually found it was best to shut the garage door and just use the floor light (yes, you HAVE to wear a respirator if you don't want to die).6) Applied a 2nd coat of clear after 24 hrs. For this final coat I mixed in the Shark-Grip anit-slip additive. Without it the floor would have been an ice rink! The directions on the Shark Grip say to use the entire 3 oz bottle to 1 gallon of clear but I cut this back to about 1/2 and ended up with a good compromise between floor gloss, clean ability and anti-slip. You couldn't slip on this floor if your tried.So, the stuff has been down about 9 days at this point. I am going to wait at least 1 more week before pulling the cars back in just to make sure I won't have any issues. I'll try to update in 6 moths or so to let you know how it looks.***Update***4/16/13 - Well it has been about 1 year since I applied the Rustoleum Professional Epoxy and it has held up very well. Not a single occurence of the epoxy lifting from "hot tire" pick-up or a single chip from all the tools I have dropped on the floor. I think this is motly due to the extensive prep work and the nice etching profile I was able to get with the Surface Gel Tek product.I do a fair amount of auto repairs in my garage and nothing that I have spilled on the floor has left a single stain (and no issues from the winter's road salt). The floor did get a little dirty after some of the larger repair projects but after sweeping and a quick mop it looked pretty good. What really made it look like new was a good spring scrubbing with simple green and water. I was surprised how great it looked after this.The only cons I have encountered is that the clear coat does scratch a little easier that I thought it would. For example, if a pebble gets stuck under the wheel of my creeper it will scratch the surface. But I am a very OCD person who notices every little scratch. Most people don't even see the scratches unless I point them out. Also, I am only talking about surface scratches on the clear coat. I don't have any scrathes that cut through the epoxy. I just make sure to use common sense when moving a heavy object around the floor (I would not reccommend dragging a transmission from one end of the shop to the other).Overall, I am still very happy with how the floor looks and how the Rustoleum Professional Epoxy has held up. I would definitely use it again. Btw, did I mention to be sure and prep the floor? :)

I read so many reviews over and over about this epoxy and compared it to the others at Home Depot/Lowes. I watched tons of videos and honestly couldn't decide for months on this. Seriously, every day I thought about it and just was debating constantly on what to get or who should do it. I thought about hiring someone to do it which would have cost about $1k with labor with the water solvent epoxy. I finally took the plunge, bought this product along with the extra material and just did it myself. I bought a new construction home with new concrete so it was fairly easy to clean my 420 sqft garage. I started on a Wednesday and finished on a Saturday morning so give yourself a few days to finish this project. I bought 2 packages of the professional epoxy and 2 packages of clear coat but with the intention of not using the 2nd ones. Although, that did not work out as planned. My wife didn't like the included blue chips so I bought 2 bags of the Glacier Gray Decorative Color Chips.The 1st day in the early afternoon I cleaned the garage with Rust-Oleum concrete etch and used a brush and squeegee. I brushed around the area for 1 hour and rinsed the floor off. I did it a 2nd time with the concrete etch and then used Rust-Oleum Degreaser in which I rinsed everything off thoroughly. I left a fan on overnight to make sure there was a good amount of air moving around. The 2nd day in the morning I taped all the areas and edges of the garage. In the early afternoon, I started the process and mixed the A&B epoxy per instructions in a separate bucket. This stuff gets really messy therefore its best to cover the floors with cardboard or bags. I used a new bucket and mixed it together. I started painting the sides really fast and my father was using the roller on the floor. I sprinkled some chips but noticed the dried areas was coming out uneven so I stopped doing it. Me and my father finished the entire garage in 1 hour but I really had to use all of the epoxy out of the can to get everything. In the early morning of the 3rd day, I noticed there were so many uneven spots that it looked terrible up close. I was supposed to clear coat the garage but I changed my plans and used the 2nd package of epoxy. I did all the sides as usual and made sure I covered all areas along with using the chips very lightly (I only used 2 1lb bags of glacier colored chips) since I decided I did not want the floor filled with chips. This time around it looked much better and again I used the whole can of epoxy.The 4th day early in the morning, I reviewed the floor and it looked great but looked a bit bland without the clear coat. The mixing of the clear coat was easier since its a burst pouch and it mixes all in the bag. I poured the bag into a separate bucket along with the anti-skid and mixed it well. This stuff was really hard to see since its very clear and did not smell much at all. I started on the sides which were easy and did the best lines on the floors. I tried to only use 1 package but unfortunately, I had to use the 2nd package to really get all the missed areas fast since it dries up in 90 minutes. Basically, this ended up being another coat of clear on top of the existing one. I had to look at it from different angles to make sure I did not miss any areas (even though I did). The next morning I checked it and it looked great. Just to be safe I did not park my vehicles in the garage until 5 days after and I left the garage open a little bit to dry up. After 5 days, the epoxy was hard as a rock and ready.I did put some garage mats under the tires so there won't be any hot tire pick up. I have also been cleaning the floor once in a while with ammonia and a mop. Other than that it has been 2 months since I painted the floors and it looks great. There are a few spots I missed but I know from experience Ill do a better job next time. I would definitely recommend this product but it really does take 4-5 days in total and 5 days of drying time afterward. Whats important is 2 coats of epoxy and 2 coats of clear are needed to make it look great. DO NOT skip out on the extra coats or else it will look bad and not durable. The epoxy fumes are super strong and make sure to vent out the garage properly. If I had to do it again I would buy the items needed below without a thought, rent a grinder to clean the garage (because I would need to take out the existing epoxy), paint it evenly and inspect all angles to check for missing spots. I would have definitely prepared everything beforehand and take my time instead of rushing to get the job done.Items Needed to cover a 420 SQFT Garage:- 2 Packages Rust-Oleum 203373 Professional Floor Coating- 2 Packages Rust-Oleum 292514 Epoxy Shield Premium Series Clear- 1 Package Rust-Oleum 238475 EPOXYShield Concrete Etch- 1 Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield Interior/Exterior Concentrated Concrete Cleaner and Degreaser- 3 5-Gallon Buckets from the local hardware store- 1 Floor squeegee with handle- 1 Brush Scrub Masonry 8in with handle- 4 Epoxy Glide Roller, 1/4-Inch Nap, 9-Inch- 3 Painting Brushed 1-3" depending on the area needed (2 for epoxy coats and 1 for clear)- 1 Paint Roller Frame, 9 IN., Cage (use the same handle from the brush)- 1 Paint Tray if needed or just get the epoxy straight from the bucket- 4 Paint sticks to stir the epoxy and clear (Otherwise use a paint mixer with power drill)- Watering Can (for concrete etch)- Water hose to reach areas of garage when cleaning- Small Box of gloves to cover hands- Disposable Respirator unless you want to sniff all the epoxy fumes- Cardboard boxes and garbage bags to place the epoxy cans and materials on (Gets messy)- OPTIONAL: Extra Decorative Flakes Spiked Shoes Goof Off - 6 oz. Professional Strength Remover (If needed to remove epoxy from the walls, cabinets or clothes)All items above will be instantly garbage once it touches the epoxy or clear coat.

Beautiful floor epoxy. Very durable because it’s urethane based.

Dont ever buy this product. Clearly damaged.For how much it cost and I can not simple use half a product. I would give a negative star.