Victron Energy Orion 24/12-Volt 70 amp DC-DC Converter Non-Isolated, High Power

Excellent device for converting from 24v to 12v. I'm using it in a large 5th wheel with a 24v battery bank in order to provide power to the 12v systems. With 70a of supply power there's no real need to install a 12v battery. The 70a capability provides more than adequate power to run our Lippert electric leveling jacks as well as for the day-to-day 12v systems in the RV. Construction is excellent and quality of the packaging was clean and neat. Installation was very simple by using a common ground connection to the 12/24v bus bars. Provide 24v on the input side and this will provide 12v on the output post. Heat generation is very low during typical operation. Output voltage is adjustable to match your exact needs or to account over voltage drop from the location of this converter to your main 12v panel. Absolutely would recommend this if you need to downconvert from 24vdc to 12vdc.

I initially bought one of the cheapo 24/12 reducers but it arrived with what looked like 12 or 14 ga wire and it just looked cheap so I returned it, bit the bullet and spent the money on Victron.Initially, I bought the 40 amp model but it came with the push on type connectors despite pictures on the page showing bolts. So I sent the 40 amp back and bought the 70 amp.The 70 amp does have the bolts for electrical connections, as pictured on the product page. It's been working great for me. I have it installed on a 24v solar system in my camper to reduce/supply the camper with 12v. The adjustment allows me to adjust the output down to 10ths of a volt. Pretty impressive.Also, I've contacted customer service twice with questions and they have responded both times and worked through my concerns with me.

It is a Victron, enough said

I use this for charging a ecoflow river 2 pro… in my jeep. This more than doubles charge wattage available at 12 volts x 8 amps (100 watts)…. This bumps it up to 28 volts x 8 amps ( 220 watts ) anyway charging at 220 watts this barely generated any heat at all… yea I am impressed. Yea I know this can supply more than 220 watts… but the charge cable I am using is a xt60 not an xt60i , makes the difference to maximize watts but the unit I am charging maxes out at 220 watts anyway.

I have two of these installed in my van to keep my Delta 2 Max charged while driving. The Delta 2 Max has two XT60i ports each capable of 500 watts but if they only see 12v they'll only charge at 80 watts assuming it's connected to a cigarette lighter.This allows me to step up the voltage to 24v which when combined with an XT60i cable lets me hit almost a full 500 watts. With the two I can almost 900 watts charging while driving.I love the fact that they have a separate input to easily switch them off. A single wire to a keyed 12v circuit and they only draw power while the engine is running so I don't kill my vehicle batter while sitting.They run relatively cool even in a tight place.

How do I even get it to work. I’ve followed the video on YouTube on how to install it. I get 12V from my battery before connecting it to the device but it drops to 9V when it’s connected to the device. The output is only 4V. I’ve turned the setting all the way to the right. The screw even got stripped. I’ve also connected the switch to my acc fuse panel but the device shows no activity whatsoever. I’ve also had it exchanged but still got the same result. I’ve had my battery and alternator tested totally good by AutoZone. I wish I can get helpful recommendations.

I bought this for an RV 24 volt upgrade and this takes the 24 volt power from and converts it to 13.2 volts. I have this on at all times now for two weeks of use and ahas provided 12 volt power flawlessly to my RV side, to include the leveling jacks which draw 50 amps, with no spikes or dimming of the lights. This device also provides the 12 volts for the emergency breakaway.What I don’t like about it is how the wires are connected to the converter. Because of distance from the battery, I went with 2 AWG and found mounting this challenging. The top lugs could only fit in the 9 o’clock, 12 o’clock, and 3 o’clock position because outside bows out not allowing the lug to sit flat (See Pic).Also the studs for the posts only have a bolt on the bottom, and are not big enough with surface to surface contact for 2 AWG lugs. (Also Visible in Pic)The studs also come with a thumb screw which for mobile applications couple shake loose. I secured these thumb screws with Kapton tape (See Pic)Finally, ground lugs go to one stud for the 24 volt and 12 volt side. One stud won’t fit two 2 AWG lugs with enough threads to secure the thumb screw (see Pic). Perhaps one or two threads will catch, but not enough to keep tight.

I have a camper that I wanted to power while in storage. I was carrying the lead acid battery back and forth from the house. I had a little buck converter that I had rigged to use a tool battery to work some 12 volt items. The buck converter was able to run the lights but not much else. I saw this and thought I would give it a try. It powers the stabilizer jacks and runs the slide in and out. That makes it easy to do maintenance and load and unload the camper. It also allows me to start and run the fridge the day before packing so it is cold and keep the lead acid battery at the house on a charger until I am ready to leave. I don't think I would travel with it without the camper battery. It will also run the inverter I have for small loads. The only thing I would change on it are the posts. They are a little close together and a little difficult to wire without touching the case. I am considering a second one so that running the slide is not so stressful and I can run higher loads on the inverter.