SCARPAInstinct VS Rock Climbing Shoes for Sport Climbing and Bouldering

Previous shoes used:Scarpa magosBoreal kintaroLove this shoe. I was slightly disappointed that the shoe isn't as tight as my magos even though I ordered the same sizeI gave them a chance before I sent them off to get a high size small and I was pleasantly surprised that my performance hadn't dropped. They kept up with my magos despite the tightness difference.My magos had an extremely painful break in period and they still fit tight. I expected the same and prepared myself for the worst with the instincts. When I put them on for the first time, I was surprised that they were more relaxed.They fit very snug without much dead space (only very little dead space on the top of my foot, but none anywhere else). My toes are not curled up like they are in my magos. They pretty much fit my foot perfectly with no pain. I started reading that modern climbing shoes don't have to be painful to get the performance out of them. So far I've been climbing in them indoors only (I have yet to take them out to hueco to see how they perform) and the edging is incredible. They aren't as sticky as my magos but that's ok because I wanted a shoe that edged better. My foot does slip on smearing but I have yet to break the rubber in so I'm not counting it as a bad thing yet.Heel hooking is on another level compared to the magos which had a horrible heel with a lot of dead space.They are easy to slip on and off which I really like to let my feet testthey don't breathe as good as other shoes so I expect climbing when it's hot is gonna cause your feet to retain a lot of sweat. I'll just take them off to let my feet cool off and let the sweat evaporateConstruct seems very solid for now. I haven't put much mileage in them yet so I have yet to see how they hold up but my magos are two years old and doing great (only need a new lace but that it's) so I'm expecting the same from these down the road.I thought the aggressive fit would only allow me to Boulder in them for short periods of time but since they fit so perfectly I already know I'll be using these to sport climb without suffering much if any.Great shoe. Will definitely resole them when the time comes

These are my real first pair of climbing shoes. The first pair of climbing shoes I got were no match for my wide feet, and I ripped the top off on the first day using them. I had done some research, and decided the SCARPA Instinct VS would be a much better fit. I'll review the 3 points I consider most important: fit, design, and durability.FIT:Every one of my friends that have claimed to have "hobbit feet" have been put to shame by my monster feet. They're not particularly large, just quite (un?)naturally wide. Had to push the heel flat and push/wiggle the front of my foot to get it in. Once in, there was no space but my toes were nicely lined up and just slightly curled. Pulled the heel over and my feet were hermetically sealed into the shoe, for a snug, performance fit. Took me 3-4 solid outings to break the shoes in, and they still fit snug but bearable compared with the first few times. I LOVE the SCARPA toe box on these.DESIGN:The shoe is a work of art. The rubber is simply awesome, and the precision of the shoe is out of this world. The heel is sticky, very sensitive, and in my case, zero space. They can be worn loose to warm up with confidence thanks to the Bi-Tension rand. One tightening of the super-sticky velcro strap and your feet turn into mountain goat hooves for serious business. As a bonus, the shoe looks totally sweet.DURABILITY:Have only had them about two months, and climbing outdoors nearly every day with them and they still look just like new, except broken in. Rubber is still great. Shoes don't even smell yet (make sure you have clean feet and wear socks on the approach, and air out your feet before and after putting the Instinct VS on). Will update this as time goes on.Verdict:I've worn a dozen or so climbing shoes of many brands and owned only one other pair before. The SCARPA Instinct VS are superior in every aspect to all the others I've tried (Solutions, Anasazis, Katanas, Tarantulaces, Miuras, Shamans, etc.). I highly recommend this shoe.

An excellent sport and bouldering shoe that fits surprisingly comfortably for its level of downturn. If you have a wide forefoot and/or morton's toe I highly recommend this shoe as it is the most comfortable high end bouldering focused shoe I've worn. I would describe the fit (I bought street shoe and downsize by 1-1.5 sizes in La Sportiva shoes which have been my previous 4 pairs (Katana Lace, Futura, Otaki, and TC Pro) as snug, without having any distinct pressure points. The best way I can describe it is that the shoe suctions around my foot very well, unlike some other tight shoes which I would describe as a less comfortable compression and forcing of the foot. I also love the heel; its quite grippy but more importantly it has minimal dead space and doesn't painfully dig into your achilles tendon .Compared to the La Sportiva futura (my previous favorite shoe for these uses) the Instinct VS is: stiffer under the toe, likely a little faster wearing as I found the no-edge shoes to be extremely slow wearing, has a better heel, takes a little bit longer to get on or off, better at vertical to off vertical edging but slightly worse at smearing and using extremely rounded or sloping holds, a little more supportive structure overall. I'm a relatively heavy climber at 170# and tend to push off my feet aggressively so I favor a somewhat stiffer shoe than average for a given application.

Highly recommend this retailer, great shoes , excellent customer, would buy from them again ! 👍

C’est la bonne marque (pas une copie). Nécessite de connaître sa pointure avant achat.

These shoes are well made and very technical. The separate toe box allows for good flexibility, the heal is fully randed for heal hooks and the toe box has a grippy top.I'm enjoying them lots.

Sehr abgerundete Schuhe, ich werde mir noch ein Paar kaufen.

Un produit à ne pas acheter en ligne, pour moi qui fait du 45, j'ai pris du 48 ! Et même avec cela elle tient le pied trop serré. J'ai les pieds larges et je n'arrive pas à trouver! Tant pis...