5PCS USB-C PD Trigger Board Module PD/QC Decoy Board Fast Charge USB Type-c to 5V9V12V20V High Speed Charger Power Delivery Boost Module

This review is for 3PCS USB-C PD Trigger Board Module PD/QC Decoy Board Fast Charge USB Type-c to 5V9V12V20V High Speed Charger Power Delivery Boost Module. As of this review the product listing is not mixed with other products, only the 3/5/10pc variants.So far I have used this in 2 projects to power my gears with USB-C instead of various barrel jacks.One is Sony Blu-ray player BDP-S6700 that takes 12V/1A. The plug for these Blu-ray players is EIAJ-04 / EIAJ IV / Philmore 2559, something that is not widely available from Amazon, and those you can find charges more than this 3pc set. So I directly soldered wires to the circuit board to power it using USB-C. This leaves a pigtail to the player but I don’t mind. The USB meter says it draws 0.75A max while playing and this trigger board handles it well. Just note that 12V is something not every charger will provide since it is optional in USB PD specifications. It also works with my QC charger (again, check if it provides 12V at all).The other is Optoma ML750 projector. The projector takes 19V/3A. Using the 20V setting it also powers it fine. The original barrel jack measures 6mm as the outer diameter, but I used a 5.5 x 2.1mm jack and it works, it doesn’t have that nice click when plugged in but it is not loose so the projector will turn off either, so I don’t have to look for the exact dimension of the plug used. The USB meter says it draws 2.4A when the fan is in high gear, which is not something every such USB PD trigger board can do. I don’t have a project that draws 3A or 5A to say it will be fine in those situations but 2.4A is no problem.There is this red LED that lights up when it is powered. Even with no load the LED is hot to the touch. The chip that’s next to it is not hot even powering my projector.This board is great in that no soldering is needed, with the obvious tradeoff that the voltage selection switch and the output terminal takes more space than if you just solder it directly to the board.Next I’m going to wire this to power my Asus fanless laptop UX305 that takes a 4.0 x 1.35mm barrel jack - I’m just waiting for that jack to be delivered. That one is 19V/2.37A so I’m sure it will work too since the current is less than my projector. No need to rely on different power supplies!

This board only passes voltages that the charger outputs. For example, if this board is connected to a PD (Apple) charger that only outputs 5, 9, 15, and 20V, it will not supply 12V.

These boards are terrific when used in conjunction with a good USB-C adapter/charger that can provide whatever voltages are requested. The three switches are a far quicker and easier solution than the "programmable" variants of these modules, and the screw terminals make it easy to quickly connect whatever you're powering. They come with no instructions, but it only took a few minutes with a test meter to determine the switch positions for each voltage.Those positions are (0 = off, 1 = on):1 2 3 Switch0 0 0 5V0 0 1 5V0 1 0 5V0 1 1 5V1 0 0 15V1 0 1 20V1 1 0 12V1 1 1 9VOne thing to note, there are no mounting holes on these boards (they're simply to small to include holes) so if intended to be mounted in a box or small appliance you'll probably need glue, a strap, or some similar method to fasten them in place. I may investigate using some flexible plastic tubing (maybe 3/4 inch inside diameter, 1 1/4 inch long) to secure these.

The mini-board works fine to trigger and maintain various PD voltages. There is no info provided on the 1-2-3 binary code switch settings, but thankfully other users have addressed it in reviews.At 20V there is some heat developed, but probably less than a watt. The LED brightness depends on the voltage, so probably regulation is linear and producing some of the heat.

Worked swimmingly at 20V for a while, then got stuck falling back to 5V. Now useless.

Works well. Using it for USB C PD 12V power to mini boombox project. Make sure you check/confirm voltage with multimeter after setting dip switches prior to using it to power your project.

Amazing value. Take care setting the switches BEFORE powering your load

Great modules, great price at 10 PCS, however, the description isn't clear on how to configure the switch-block. Since I couldn't find a manual online, I used a USB C PD charger that could handle all the voltages properly and used a voltmeter to verify. Yes, you can hot-switch between voltages. Here were my switch configurations, and with this disclaimer: be sure to verify your voltage before powering your device. A '1' in this table indicates 'ON' in the switch-block, 'X' is don't care, for the switches in 1-2-3 order:0XX : 5V100 : 15V101 : 20V110 : 12V111 : 9V