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M**E
Great resource for those looking to improve their climbing
I've had this book for over a year now and I've read it a few times. I live by the teaching of Eric Jorst and I can say his training methods are best out there. He teaches you to identify your strengths, weaknesses and provides training solutions for you to overcome them. The questionnaires are a good tool to revisit when you feel like your climbing is plating. This book is a must have for any climbing level. Pick it up if you are serious about your climbing and want to improve.
M**R
A lot of good stuff, some common sense stuff too
I'm an intermediate level climber (lead 5.11's) and found this book to be quite helpful. I think the biggest things I got out of this book are:- Even if you think your technique is good and you believe it's physical limitations that are holding you back, it's actually probably technique that's holding you back.- Training in a focused, systematic way can lead to huge gains (need to change up my routine)- Less is more; know when to not push yourself- Recovery is the other side of the coin of trainingI would say 50-60% of this stuff was new to me. There was a lot of stuff that I thought was common sense if you've been climbing more than a year or so. I guess the book is meant to be accessible to all levels while focusing more on intermediate/advanced climbers. I just finished the book and haven't started to implement any of this so I'll be curious to see how it works out. If I remember, I'll update this review in a year or so.
A**E
Most useful for me was the description and diagrams of basic ...
I got this book on the recommendation of friends much more advanced than me. I'd been climbing for maybe 6 months, they for multiple years. I can see re-reading it as I progress and getting more out of it each time. Most useful for me was the description and diagrams of basic techniques, and a general guideline of how to train and what to look out for to keep yourself from being injured. My next time through I'll probably focus more on visualization and risk/fear management. Well written to boot.
S**D
Classic book w/ great information
Training for climbing does a great job introducing you to exercises and concepts that will help improve your climbing whether you are a beginner climbing or an advanced cragger. This book goes beyond what I expected and introduces you to mental training, scientific exercise concepts, and even diet recommendations. I'd highly recommend this book if you want to improve your climbing -- it's the best around.
C**R
Excellent book - but buy it on paper, not Kindle.
The book is excellent. I am a new climber and already have learned a lot from this book since there is a lot of "anecodotal" stories that are going around and I prefer to deal with facts. Very well sritten and thorugh and tries to separate the author's bias from the general literature. I started drinking Accelerade based on Eric's suggestion and feel much better now (I am 47 and don't heal too fast). My only regret is that it does not format well on the Kindle. Please buy the book, but buy it on paper copy. It is too hard to search and book mark and re-read key sections and flip back to the glossary. It does format better on the Kindle app on my ipad mini, but I would still buy a hard copy of this author next time around. So my view is 5 stars for the material but down to 4 stars for the Kindle version.
M**N
it literally made me a better climber and already took me from consistent 5
.... it literally made me a better climber and already took me from consistent 5.10- to consistently on sighting 5.11- and a several 5.11+. I've only read the first 4 chapters. I expect 5.12's by the end of the year. After that the possibilities are beyond endless.
G**N
Same info different cover!!!!
Its not that theres a problem with the contents, just a repeat on other books he has written.Its no use changing the name a bit and the front picture in the hope that people are going to buy your books.Its misleading and a waist of my mone.So if you don't have new things to add dont try and con your support base.See similar reviewees had the same problem
B**N
Very similar to "How to Climb 5.12"
I bought this book after reading "How to Climb 5.12," and I must say that it is almost like reading the same book twice. I am a fan of this author and have benefited from his advice, but one book or the other will suffice. I would recommend "Training for Climbing" out of the two, as it offers more information on specific drills and exercises. It also goes into much more detail about the sports science theory behind the training concepts, which people may or may not be interested in. Your climbing will improve by reading either one of these.
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