TotalBoat - 14308 Marine Gelcoat for Boat Building, Repair and Composite Coatings (White, Gallon with Wax), Packaging May Vary

The media could not be loaded. Be aware that Gelcoat without wax should be your first coat and requires Gelcoat with wax as your final coat. And they really recommend five coats total which can be sanded to a polished finish It's Labor intense 💪 and must be applied in the recommended temperatures two part mix catalyst included mix in half quart batches for easier yields and 1 quart just about makes it on a 19ft Hull not including transome and must be thoroughly cleaned with Denatured Alcohol... Do not clean surfaces with Acetone.... Use Acetone for end clean up and tools.. Apply with 3/8 roller it can be sanded after final coat to a polished finish use Gelcoat with wax for filling in small cracks and gouges sand, then clean with denatured alcohol then apply Gelcoat without wax as first coat. finalize with Gelcoat with Wax for final coat... I sanded down 15 years of anti-fowl paint down past the gel coat in spots with 60 grit. DA sander then worked my way up to 220 grit Then applied three coats of gelcoat... great product overall extremely hard finish. Looks like a brand new Hull I used the 3/8 roller that was recommended but I think if you use a half inch on final coat and then sand to a polished finish starting with 180 to 220 grit, you can bring it up to a thousand grit or wet sand it.... I didn't bother. It looks great with 3/8 nap roller considering it's the bottom of the boat

Could not have renovated a sailboat that went through Hurricane Michael, without this stuff. The biggest complaint I have heard in the past is that gel coat that is not molded onto fiberglass does not adhere well. My boat was completely bare of polish or wax, and pre-sanded with 220/400/600/1000/ and 1500, because my existing gelcoat was in horrible condition. Took more sanding at the coarser level, and very little at the fine, finishing level. Don't know about a boat with wax, but I did find if I inadvertently dropped a drop on virtually anything, this stuff adheres to the point I can't remove it, plastic, cement, stainless steel etc. I got the no-wax because I have an older boat and did not want a standout shiny patch. Having said that, I would speculate that a pure plastic (then coated with wax after drying) would be stronger than a plastic mixed with a foreign material like wax.There is an art to using gelcoat over epoxy and filler. If you are not a skilled sander you may have trouble. I put on with a paint brush quickly in a space surrounded by painters tape. I also did a few less drops of MEK than was recommended which extended my dry time, but also "working" time. Then I removed the tape even before it dried, because when I had let it dry, it pulled up the edges of the gelcoat paint job. Started with 160 sandpaper and went to 400 for final finish--all wet sanding only. Takes patience, and you have to be careful around the edges where the old finish is.This stuff is dynamite on non-sked surfaces. Did not even have to get rid of the dead gelcoat--just cleaned with soap and water. Used a high quality paint brush that I had to toss after each application, and worked quickly. Non-skid has two sets of lines--one down and to the right, the other ninety degrees off and to the left. I brushed on to the right and finish brushed into the other set of lines to the left. Makes a more uniform looking surface. Hard as nails and stain free thus far. Sealed with several coats of Star-brite marine polish. Looks brand new. And, almost forgot, had to tape around each non-stick surface to make it look professional, when applying.

I did a lot of research ahead of time how to apply the gelcoat and how to buff it out etc. This is not a product that you can just read the label on the can and get it right.I replaced the transom on my boat and did a couple of repairs on the hull. I didn't try and match the off white color of my boat, I was more worried about the structural quality that looks. I used a roller in the bilge area and sprayed the outside of the boat using a HLVP sprayer with a 2.5 tip. Getting it to spray smooth with that small of tip was hard, would recommend a pressure pot and a 3mm tip.I applied 2-3 coats (2 unwaxed with waxed on top) . Both the outside of the boat and the Bilge came out great after the proper sanding and buffing.

Works really well easy to mix and spread

as described

I had zero problems with this product. Lot of bad reviews. I bought this and it sat in my very hot garage for 6 months before I used it. Was not clumpy or settled at all. Which I was worried about. Mixed it as the instructions said…painted the Boat, and with in a few hours it was as hard as a rock. I’m buying more to paint the rest of the boat now

I measured the gelcoat and hardener precisely according to the instructions and applied to my boat, which was prepared by grinding around the damage and cleaning thoroughly with acetone. There were dozens of holes to fill. After 24 hours, this gelcoat had no signs of even becoming tacky let alone setting up. It was 75 degrees F, which is what the measurements were valid for. I had to remove all that gelcoat and clean the holes again with acetone. Then I tried mixing up a small batch with twice the hardener the instruction specified. This time it was better but still gooey after 48 hours. I got my money back. Ended up using Evercoat Gel-Kote One Step. That set up in 15 minutes and was hard enough to sand in a couple hours.

A+++