🔥 Weld Like a Pro, Wherever You Go!
The YESWELDER FLUX-135PRO is a compact, lightweight 3-in-1 welding powerhouse delivering 135 Amps of output. It supports Flux Core MIG, Stick, and Lift TIG welding with smart synergic controls and a large LED display for precision. Designed for portability and versatility, it includes bonus flux core wire for immediate use without shielding gas, making it ideal for professionals and enthusiasts seeking reliable, on-the-go welding performance.
Manufacturer | YESWELDER |
Part Number | FLUX-135 |
Item Weight | 19.16 pounds |
Package Dimensions | 17.28 x 13.27 x 7.95 inches |
Item model number | FLUX-135 |
Size | Average |
Style | FLUX-135PRO |
Material | Metal |
Item Package Quantity | 1 |
Batteries Included? | No |
Batteries Required? | No |
J**R
Good value for DIY around the home projects
I am no professional welder, but I am an experienced engineer. Some decades ago I used a cheap stick welder on cars. Now with the 135 amp FCAW or "MIG" welder it is much easier on thin metal. The machine is much smaller and not as heavy, which I do also appreciate. I checked the output voltage and all looked fine. Then I tried it on a small piece of a metal stand for a fan - see picture after I painted it. It worked pretty good. Now it is stable to carry the fan. So the machine paid itself already half off because we do not need to buy a new fan.Here's a trick for thin metal sheets less than 1 mm: To only do sort of a spot weld and not burning holes into the thin metal the wire feed is way too fast. So to spot weld just leave the wire hang out of the nozzle long enough for a few spots and disengage the wire feeder by pulling off the wheel on top of the feeder. That way it won't feed when you press the gun button but it will weld when you hit the work piece with the wire hanging out of the gun. If you need more wire you can either engage the feed again or do it by hand until you get more wire out of the nozzle.Another option is to clamp a piece of wire with the stick welding clamp and use that instead of a welding stick. Just make sure it has the right polarity for MIG welding. Or you could even try to reverse polarity if that works better.The welding machine works fine and I do also like that it has a protection cover over the display and control knobs. Because sooner or later some sparks will hit the machine. What I usually do before I put it back to storage is to pull the wire back by hand into the machine. That way I have no loss of wire and I can disconnect the MIG gun and store it safely.The manual is pretty good, too. Not always the case with those cheap Eastern tools.What I did not test yet is the stick welding and the TIG welding. Stick welding should be fine though. It's much more simple than the FCAW welding and needs no feed. I am not sure if I will ever use TIG welding. I do only small DIY jobs around our home, nothing fancy or huge. A broken leg here and there or a frame part of a generator, swing, etc.Time will tell if the machine is reliable and should I run into problems I'll update my review.Update 9/29/2023:Now I welded a broken frame part of a canopy of a swing. It came apart after wind damage. First kinda "spot" welded then doing the "mig" flux core with the feed over it. Worked out just fine again. Although it was difficult to weld around the holes where the screw goes through. See pics before and after painting. It's also very thin metal. A little less than 1 mm. When using the MIG with about 40 amps and feed there was a lot of build up of metal, so I had to grind that off. Still stable and sturdy, so it has penetrated the frame enough.No issues with the welding machine so far. Did not check the higher amps over 90 yet, but I will probably not need it anyway. Those higher amps are for thicker material like 1/4 an inch or so. I have not many things here which are that thick and need to be welded. It would probably trip my 20 amp breaker anyways after some time. It says on the machine it needs 54 amps for that high of a setting.What I checked was the stick welding, just with the flux wire clamped in and two wires in parallel. That worked as well for the "spot" welding and clamping those 2 pieces of the frame together.In regards to suggest what welder to buy for just DIY small projects people: Forget the higher amps welders. They are more expensive, but not necessarily better for tiny jobs. Higher amps are for very thick metal. Good for pipeline welders or other professional jobs with HD jobs. But for tiny projects it's overkill. All you probably need is 100 amps max and for the most part with thin sheet metal 30-60 amps. Even then it needs some tricks to not burn holes into it. You can also try to use the mig wire to cut off a piece and hold it over small gaps and then weld it with the mig mode. That way you've got a thicker piece together to weld and the gap may be welded over easier. It's no rocket science, it's just hot metal melting and trying to get it back melted together. Whatever works, works!Quick Update 7/12/2024:Regarding the welds above they are still holding strong - no bending or weakness after almost a year. The swing frame outside and also the fan stand.
J**H
Great little unit!
I've had this welder for nearly a year, and have run almost 5 lbs of wire through it. I must say I'm impressed. I'm far from an experienced welder, but I must say this thing is impressive! It has welded everything from standard thickness exhaust to frame patches on a 1/2 pickup. It only experienced one issue during this: the lead that feeds power to the gun came disconnected inside the connector that goes to the machine- which was easily repaired.Overall it's been pleasant to use, and if I ever need another one this will be it! It's also very light. If you need a 120volt flux core welder for light duty work this might be the one for you!
S**S
when will i ever get my refund
1)poor interface, not user friendly in the slightest. Included instructions is a hardware diagram.. button label. has no mention of these odd abbreviations that are behind another menu to adjust wire speed or voltage in manual mig mode. the auto feature may work but is unclear which parameter you are setting it off of ( speed, voltage, or current).2) matching the poor interface is terrible ergonomics for the necessary viewing angle of the screen. the digital read out is tucked below a 2 inch lip forcing the user to hunch down in order to view the readout accurately. this may not be an issue if you plan on having the machine tilted up on a cart. working off the floor or a table too or truck bed is painstaking at best. also worth mentioning is the led light indicators on the screen must be viewed only at a 90 degree head on angle otherwise you see thru the face plate at such an angle giving the illusion of an inaccurate read (wire size light, tig / mig light , etc.3)when switching to auto mode (synergic) the default setting is 4t. if you don't know what that means, nvm.4)all metric5) euro style plug for mig whip, i was open to this but after trying it feels like a very weak connection prone to failure either breaking or miss-threading the plastic screw. especially when in the field or any mobile situation. the lincoln, miller, harbor freight standard style seems like a much more reliable connection especially since its marketed to be used with a spool gun that will only work by physically removing the mig lead and putting on the spool gun in its place, this is such a terrible time waster for someone looking to simply use the spool gun for a moment then proceed back to steel.6) 220v output was regularly flipping breaker7) physically loud machine , fan boost non stop soon as its on, i don't imagine that fan runs for free either . another price you pay saving money on this machine, more like stacking compromises.8) yes welder? such a terrible name . embarrassed to pull this out or mention it especially when the first experience was such a regret. i have used all types of machines for 10 years + but this takes the cake as the worst i would prefer a harbor freight flux core before i recommend this to anyone no matter what experience level. Get yourself a Lincoln, miller, hobart, harbor freight, or prime weld. everlast, weldpro, ahp, or even hynade before this junk. even prob LOTOS better than this.9) the only thing yeswelder managed to do remotely well is their marketing and relentless price cuts and YouTube presence. thru influencers.10) Poor customer service. i have since returned this pos and its been two weeks, 2 weeks and ive yet to receive my refund despite all the rave reviews they have on good service. I returned all the parts in the original box wit a letter stating all the above.thats the last of my design tips you get for free, if you want more you know where to find me. but be ready to pay, bc i want to be compensated even tho it may be a lost cause since the design is so awful. end user was never considered, you should be ashamed to call yourself a welding machine manufacture.
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