🔧 Join the 3D printing revolution with ease!
The VIT SPORT 1.75mm Filament Connector is a professional-grade filament welder designed to effortlessly join various filament types, including PLA, ABS, PC, PETG, and TPU. Weighing just 5.3 ounces and compactly sized, this tool ensures reliable and durable filament fusion, making it an essential addition to any 3D printing setup. With a complete kit and a year of dedicated customer support, elevate your 3D printing experience today!
Manufacturer | VIT SPORT |
Brand | VIT SPORT |
Item Weight | 5.3 ounces |
Package Dimensions | 6.14 x 4.13 x 3.5 inches |
Item model number | 5267 |
Color | Red |
Material Type | Polyethylene Terephthalate Glycol, Polylactic Acid, Thermoplastic Polyurethane |
Number of Items | 50 |
Manufacturer Part Number | 5267 |
G**Y
Works great
I use it for my 04 wire to connect them together two try’s and then now I got it down pat just make sure your wire is straight and butted together before putting it in. Lots of sleeves and slicers works great.I would recommend getting one to save from wasting wire. 3Der recommended
A**1
Compared to the Black Model
Red VS BlackRed doesn't use parchment paper. This may prove to be a bad thing after extended use, due to build up of filament on the clamp. Having said that, using parchment paper with Black is a little tricky. I now know why so many reviews comment on needing the 3rd hand. It takes a bit, but after a few attempts, I was getting it with minimal trouble. Black comes with standard paper clamps which are essentially useless, they tend to slip and release the filament, messing up the weld positioning. I'm surprised the manufacturer didnt 3d print some small U clips. Took me 30 minutes to draw something and have it printed. These work MUCH better than paper clips.Red has a stand. VERY convenient, especially considering the filament is spooled up and keeps pushing the black over. Not having the clamp level is a bad thing. The filament coming out of the sides gets hot enough to easily deform. I'll design something similar for Black that holds it in position.Black worked quite well with the settings listed (at least for PETG), whereas Red overheated the filament coming from the sides. After the cool down period, the filament had folded almost 90°. This should be an easy enough fix, just have to tweak the timing.Black came out "cleaner" whereas red needed more clean up. This is probably due to the parchment paper. Red comes with 3 files, Black only has 1.Red came with a timer, which was much more convenient than using my phone.Black seems to be built slightly better, but that might just be due to the size difference.Red is cheaper.In my opinion, there isn't a clear winner. They both work as advertised and with a little bit of practice, I think will have similar results. If nothing else, there shouldn't be buyer's remorse wishing you went the other way. HAPPY PRINTING!!Revision: After more experimenting, I'm growing fonder of Red. The omission of parchment paper just makes its SOO much easier. Tip - I coated the business end of Red with a Plastic Repellent product available from Slice Engineering. Hopefully using this stuff will add longevity to Red, as I had my initial concerns as to the parchment paper providing a line of defense. I tried to coat Black with the same product, but I still had some filaments adhere to the clamp, which scared me into resorting back to parchment paper. Only time will tell how many splices I can get from either type, but for now, my go to will be RED. Just easier to use, and it doesnt hurt that its cheaper.
S**H
Works okay for its purpose.
I have multiple part-spools of filament that are too short for practical use. I wanted to be able to use the filament without having to baby-sit the printer to try to catch the filament running out so I could do a quick change. I tried some of the do-it-yourself filament welders and never was able to get a good weld. My very first attempt with this was pretty good. I did use the included sander to smooth the splice so it would be more consistent in size with the rest of the filament. Some subsequent attempts joined the filament, but the joint was not as good. So, there is a bit of a leaning curve to using this product effectively.Plus: Compact size, fairly easy to use.Negative: there was no instructions in the box of suggested times for different filaments. The graphic on Amazon has this information, but it is not included in the box.Neutral: Apparently, there was a timer included at one point as one of the video reviews indicates. Mine did not come with a timer. Since it is not listed in the product details, and since I have enough ways to time the filament already, this is not a big deal.
E**E
Well Made
Bonded PLA broke. Don’t believe this solution works.
A**O
Don’t buy, garbage and waste of money
This thing is complete garbage. I am better off using a lighter and pushing filament ends together with my fingers. Waste of money.
C**P
It works!
I've bought a lot of crap in my life so it was a joy opening the box, reading the directions, plugging it in and finding out the damn thing works! I have a sign business. I employ a 3D printer to make gizmos for me. I'm not without considerable handyman talent but I found trying to make a filament splice via other methods was wasting my time, costing me money and wasting filament. So, I came here delighted to tell you, my fellow 3D printers ... Get one!The directions, if followed .... work! My first effort was dead solid perfect.I'd like to add to the directions:Dealing with two ends is the hardest part. If you are not careful your joint will shift.Keeping the joint ends in the center hot spot is a biggie or you'll get a weak joint or no joint.I made about 10 joints just fiddling around and believe I stumbled upon a way to make better joints.With a clipper, cut the filament at the steepest angle you can accomplish.Center the first cut joint across the heating element and close the clamp.Pay attention to the orientation of the face of the clipped joint. Let's say the face is out?Clip a steep angle on the new filament. Orient the face "In" to match the first filament.Because you have a point, the filament can push in through the other side!!!!Make sure the clamped filament stays put and push the new filament in til it stops.Set your timer for 2 minutes. (PLA for me)Click the handy switch on.At 2 minutes pick one side or the other and push until it moves a little. ⅛"??? ish.Push the other side in til it moves.If you push both sides at the same time you can inadvertantly goof and kink the filament.If you can push the filament in...you're good. Quit and do the other side.Turn off the tool and set you clock to 4 minutes. More is good. Leave it alone.I made about 5 joints that were absolutely perfect.If you don't get filament movement after heating something is wrong.With a little experience ..... your splicing issues are over.
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