Skar Audio VX4-ST 4-Inch 600 Watt High Compression Titanium Bullet Super Tweeter, Each

I have a Tahoe....like most SUV's the speaker placement from the factory leaves EVERYTHING to be desired. I have Infinity KAPPA components in the front & rear doors (3 way in front, 2 way in back) along with enough sub & amp to ENSURE that I NEVER, not even for a single second, HAVE to listen to the id next to me cranking horrifically distorted (C)Rap/hip-hop/techno/dance/rave/pop! I instead get to watch them go crazy when they realize they suddenly can hear the 'Stones, Neil Young, DIO etc. The looks on their faces is PRICELESS!Problem with the speakers (including the mid range speaker & tweeters in the front & components in the rear doors) being located DOWN below the seat level is that the sound is quite "muddy" and it's impossible to get clean, crisp highs that aren't too bright.I solved those issues and then some! I mounted a pair of these compression drivers way back on the D pillars (pillars in front of the tailgate) where to my surprise there already was a pair of OEM tweeters...they simply never had enough power to be noticeable plus being OEM speakers (even with a BOSE system) they're incredibly LOW QUALITY! I also mounted a pair of the top line SKAR tweeters in the B pillars (at headrest level right behind the front seats) and the 4 tweeters are being powered by a 50 watt/channel 4 channel amp. The front tweeter gain is almost all the way down and it's "JUST RIGHT" while the Compression Drivers on the D pillars are getting the majority of the 50 watts/channel.I have several "HIG END" stereos in m house...one is an old school, quadraphonic set up with 4 old, HUGE Klipsch speakers (not any of the modern home theater ****!) being driven by a potent Yamaha amp throwing 125 watts/channel at all 4 speakers. Incredibly deep, rich sound from low volume to rattling pictures off of my neighbor's walls (kidding, I live on an acre) while my "home theater" system in my man cave has a Yamaha 7.2.2 receiver and a 2 channel "SLAVE" amplifier for pounding another large set of old school Klipsch towers. ALL of my home stereo speakers are Klipsch but even having awesome speakers doesn't matter when the sound is coming from a home theater amp with all of their garbage "enhancements"...this is why there's another Yamaha amp (circa 1970's) driving 2 channels @ 100 watts/channel...so I can listen to my music THE WAY IT WAS MEANT TO SOUND without a single "enhancement" added by the receiver.For the 1st time in my life, I've finally heard a car stereo that can be compared to my main home stereo! Incredible clarity, depth, "feel" etc.....no added distortion, no "harsh" (too "bright") highs etc. I'm sincerely impressed, especially for the price...I was convinced I was going to hook them up, listen to them for 5 minutes, discover I couldn't "tune" the harshness out and I'd be sending them back. SKAR has impressed the hell out of me...plus their customer service is AWESOME...no problems this time, but encountered a blown speaker in my son's car....no questions asked....sent it back and got a new pair...all in a few days!

Amazing little tweeters bought them to put in a headliner rack and it works perfectly captures thoses highs real nice, keep in mind when purchasing this item you will have to clap or solder the connection due to it having a wire attached to the capacitor, other than that I love them would pair them up with a horn for those crisp trumpet and guitar sounds

This tweeter is a horn type and is easy to set up using a pin plug, so it reproduces very clear high-frequency sound.If I input the 120W stated in the performance description, I think the voice coil will burn out, so it's best not to apply more than 20W.The blue line on the graph is the pink noise source, and the red line is the characteristics of the sound reproduced by the JBL2115A+VX1-ST recorded using a measurement microphone.These are crossed over at 2580Hz/-12dB/Oct. and an attenuator is used to reduce the power entering the VX1-ST.For speakers used to reproduce mid- and low-range sounds, choosing units with an efficiency as close to 106dB as possible will help reduce distortion in the reproduced sound.

Loud proud customer. Product is very loud and came well packaged. Great power handling. Easy to set up

These little guys can go get as loud as you want them to they will make your ear drum hurt lol. They are worth the money very happy with them. I dont have an amo for them the only power to them are from my pioneer radio.

crisp and clean sound

Simply amazing

If you don't have about 18 RMS minimum (not "peak" power) these aren't going to work well as a factory replacement. One look at the magnet on these things and you can see they're not meant for factory stereo duty. My head unit has 18 RMS and I went ahead and wired them in while I was working on the rest of the setup. I was able to dial them in by adjusting the individual speaker levels. If you have that option then you can make these work at a lower wattage.I eventually replaced the door speakers with these tweets and some mid range 5"x7"s that share a 100w rms high pass channel from my amplifier (50 watts RMS, .5-20KHz) and they sound amazing. They actually put out more DB compared to my mids than I would like but it's "good'nuf" for me. I just adjusted the fade more to the rear door speakers to quiet them down a little. Full tilt, I can hear my highs echoing off the nearby buildings, like an announcer on a PA at a baseball game. It's almost too much, so I didn't mind dialing them down a little.These have big magnets so they're heavy and the factory installed bass blocks have a single strand to connect to about the size of a paper clip. You will need to solder it to your positive wire or maybe use a crimp connector but you're not going to be able to do the old twist and tape install. If your system already has a crossover or capacitor inline to block highs then the pre-installed ones might be a problem.You'll need about 1.5 inches clearance from any metal due to the size of the magnets. I had to rethink my setup a few times because the original spot for my tweeters was in the a-pillar and didn't have hardly any clearance, and the 2nd spot I picked was too close to the door frame so the magnets were trying to attach themselves during install.I should note that no other tweeter I have installed handles the high frequencies like these do. I tried some DS18's and some Black Diamond tweeters. They weren't even close (and the DS18's both stopped working in less than 2 months). Granted, they ONLY put out the high end notes but they do it well enough that normal tweeters sound like mids. I'm going to order a second set for my other car. These are getting installed next to some Ford factory tweeters because they don't hit the highs well. Should be a perfect match. They will both share a 100w RMS channel with a 6" mid. I'm hoping 33w is the sweet spot for these since 50w was a bit too much.