🛠️ Break free from broken bolts with precision power!
The IRWIN Hanson 35-piece Screw Extractor and Drill Bit Set features cobalt alloy steel construction and aggressive left-hand spiral flutes designed to securely remove broken studs, bolts, and screws. Each tool is laser-etched with size guides for fast, accurate use. This professional-grade kit is optimized for metal and steel applications, all neatly organized in a durable plastic case and backed by a lifetime warranty.
Material | Cobalt Alloy Steel |
Cutting Diameter | 0.09 Inches |
Finish Type | Cobalt Alloy Steel |
Shank Type | Spline |
Brand | IRWIN |
Tool Flute Type | Spiral |
Minimum Bore Diameter | 0.08 Inches |
Surface Recommendation | Metal, Steel |
UPC | 971473130818 791511182940 100067056931 024721111357 782386223401 |
Unit Count | 1.0 Count |
Manufacturer | IRWIN |
Number of Pieces | 35 |
Part Number | AHN-11135 |
Item Weight | 3.42 pounds |
Country of Origin | China |
Item model number | 11135ZR |
Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
Size | 35-Piece |
Style | Spiral Flute Extractor Set |
Finish | Cobalt Alloy Steel |
Item Package Quantity | 35 |
Measurement System | Inch |
Batteries Included? | No |
Batteries Required? | No |
Warranty Description | Lifetime warranty does not cover abuse |
Assembled Diameter | 0.09 Inches |
A**R
This is why some people rate these extractors one star
These extractors ARE made in USA. Some have complained the pckg. Said “Hanson” instead of Irwin. Irwin acquired Hanson in the 90’s. Hanson is IRWIN! Many people have rated these extractors poorly saying either the left hand bit or the extractor snapped immediately. Just because it says extractor doesn’t mean the broken bolt is coming out! These bits and extractors are hardened which means they are more brittle. If you throw too much torque on the bit or extractor it’s going to snap! You have to take your time with bit! “Let the tool do the work son!” A sharp brand new bit doesn’t need a lot of force. Let it cut. When you insert the extractor and first apply torque you have to FEEL the extractor. If you feel it resisting and not breaking loose STOP. Ion the photos attached I snapped a bolt off inside a washing machine transmission spindle. First I drilled a 1/8” hole in the 5/16” bolt. First attempt no go. The extractor was twisting too much. FEEL the torque. If it’s not moving step up to the next size. I drilled the bolt with the 1/4” bit and tried with the next size up extractor. NO GO STILL! But I didn’t just crank on it as hard as I could. I grabbed a small torch and put a 20 second shot of heat on the shaft. Put some torque on the extractor and bolt backed right out like butter! You have to understand how corrosion, heat, penetrating oil etc affect your metals. If the bolt is corroded badly you need a cutting torch not an extractor! This extractor by IRWIN/HANSON is top quality! Works great. If you don’t know what you’re doing and have no mechanical aptitude you shouldn’t blame the product. ;)
A**R
Quality
High quality! Worked great
V**Y
Good product
works as it should, made in the USA
H**R
exhaust manifold bolt broke flush to engine-got it out
This kit doesn't come with instructions and I have only used this kit once so far so I gave it 4 stars instead of 5.Here are instructions below from my internet researching on the subject:Got broken ford van broken exhaust manifold bolt out with this kit.The bolt broke flush with the engine block so I couldn't grab it with vice grips and it wasn't loose where I could spin it out with a pick....Used smallest drill bit to drill through slowly about 30 min time, then when drilling with next size bit, the broken bolt came out.These cobalt bits are good, my titanium bits wouldn't touch the hard bolt metal, but these slowly and constantly drilled creating flakes and spirals of cuttings as they worked.Drilled about 90 rpm-just over 1 revolution a second, don't go fast or you risk dulling the tip and also breaking the bit.Oiled bit tip often.Apply just enough adequate pressure to cut-create consistent cuttings.Take breaks as arms tire out.I had to use a cheap harbor freight 90 degrees driver attached to my drill to give the proper space and angle to drill for the limited working space.Luckily the bolt that broke was accessible enough without lifting the vehicle body or engine.Before I drilled, I did heat the broken bolt with a propane torch (protect any flammable or wires if needed) and let cool to help loosen and sprayed for a week with penetrating oil.You must center punch as precise as possible in case you need to drill the bolt as big as possible before inserting an extractor. Don't jump bit sizes, work with each size progressing up.If this method will or does not work for you, the Internet says you'll have to find someone to mig weld on a washer and nut, using the special mig rod mg600 can even get out deeply broken bolts.When removing any frozen bolts/nuts Always heat to a dull red glow with a propane torch(a good 6 min) or use an even hotter oxy acetanin torch, to help expansion unseize-break rust-loctite etc, let cool, then hammer to shock threads, apply penetrating oil-up to a week if you have the time, then unbolt or break if still frozen(if it breaks, use this kit or weld).
A**R
These work awesomely
So, I watched a few videos on bolt extraction for my classic car. They all seem to show an effortless removal of stuck bolts with a left left-handed drillbit. After working through five other brand drillbits that all broke, I just received this set today and within five minutes, had my problem resolved. My stuck bolt was rusted and below another piece of the frame (it’s hard to get at, but the drill bits went right in). Highly recommend.
Trustpilot
1 month ago
1 week ago