Pacific Auto-Clean Under Cabinet Range Hood, AC3000BS/AC3036BS, Max 900CFM

It really sucks. But in a good way. A little on the loud side on high but a good product.

So, we got a new range hood for my parents’ apartment after some renovations. But guess what? After we put it in, it didn’t turn on! We reached out to the seller, and they were super quick to get back to us. Since they live in the same city as my parents, they sent a tech to fix it. And the best part? It’s under warranty, so we didn’t have to pay anything. Now, it’s working like a charm, and we’re so happy with our new purchase!

If you are considering this unit from Amazon, you are probably thinking of DIY. However, the unit is mostly intended for professional installation which does not include detailed unit dimensions, cut out template , or detailed step by step instructions. But it is doable since I installed it all by myself without any help. Professional installation normally uses two people. The following may help:1. Download from the web the unit dimensions for hanging holes and 6” duct outlet and some general installation instructions.2. Check your cabinet dimensions against the hanging hole locations. If the cabinet is of tongue and groove construction , the hanging holes are only 5/16” from the inside face of the cabinet wall. I used 1/4” machine screw with washers and nuts instead of the included wood screws. Chipped out a bit of cabinet wall for washers. It is that close.3. Build a platform to protect the range and shelves for using car jack to rise up the hood.The unit is of stainless steel construction with an off white protection film to be removed after installation, do not mistake it as of different color or material. This is a very good hood with reasonable price, enough suction capacity, and less noise level at high speed then other hoods I had before. Auto cleaning feature is a plus.

Nice fit, works smoothly, it's shiny and beautiful.

Read multiple reviews on this product which said it was too loud but couldn't understand how someone would want good suction power without getting a little more noise. I came from a 160 cfm hood to this 900 cfm hood which is over 5x stronger. The noise is not 5x louder so I guess that is good but it shouldn't matter since that isn't the job of this product. I do not consider this hood loud at all.If you cook everyday like me, then this is the hood for you. I can make steaks on max fire and not be able to smell anything from 10 feet away just to let you imagine how good this hood does its job. I should have gotten this hood and threw out my piece of junk hood when first moved into my house. When and if I ever get another new home this is the first thing I am buying to upgrade.

no plug and cord they provided is just 12". will be need to add extension to work.

It seems that the manufacturer doesn't understand that the light is supposed to be useful, and not just for decoration. It is only 4 watts, and the lens that covers it is frosted, so I find myself constantly looking to see if it's even turned on because it is so dim. It is also in the middle, front, so it is shining right down on your forehead, instead of the stove. I'm looking for something to retrofit some lights to this, as this one is just about completely useless. It may work as a night light, to guide you to the stove in the middle of the night, though I can't think of a reason that would be necessary. They clearly say that the light is limited to 4 watts, so it's not like you can put a good bulb in to make it better. They provide a light bulb, but it is one with the decorative LED internals, like you would use in an exposed bulb in a candelabra. It has the E26 base, but I can't find a good daylight LED to fit in there.This is supposed to mount to the bottom of a 30-inch wide cabinet. I fits OK, as it is only 29.75 inches wide, but the mounting holes that the four screws go through to hold it to the bottom of the cabinet are too close to the edges, all of them. If you put a supporting block between the top of this unit and the bottom of the cabinet, which you must do with most cabinets, in order to have something for the mounting screws to bite into, the screws will be right at the extreme edges of that supporting block. The mounting holes and screws that are supplied just seem like a recipe for disaster if this thing vibrates them out over time. As the holes are, you can't get a good bite into the supporting block.I re-drilled the four mounting holes all 1/2-inch farther from the edge, and 1/2" closer to the front, and drilled all the way through the supporting block and the bottom of the cabinet and put 1/4-20, 3-inch bolts through everything. If you don't do this, then you must first securely install the supporting block, secure enough that this unit can hang from it, as the supplied screws only go into the wood about 3/4-inch.If you have a flat bottom on your cabinet, you could screw the screws directly into the bottom of the cabinet, but most cabinets are not constructed that way, or most are made of weak particle board, which I wouldn't trust to hold this unit in place.The material in the unit where these mounting holes are located is the thinnest stainless steel that I have ever seen. It seems just slightly thicker than aluminum foil. Not exaggerating. Again, seems the manufacturer doesn't seem to understand that this needs to be held securely to the cabinet, and these four mounting screws are all that support it.Also, the unit comes with a plastic ring that MUST be glued to the top of this unit with a strong construction adhesive. This would be good to know before buying it and needing to read the instructions to find that the adhesive is needed. Fortunately I happened to have a tube of the stuff from some recent house remodel. This ring adapts your metal exhaust pipe to the top of the unit. I don't know why they couldn't just attach this ring themselves, probably to avoid needing a slightly bigger box to pack it in. You must wait for this adhesive to fully cure, as you can't reach it when the unit is mounted to your cabinet. They could have provided screws, and a rubber gasket, or screws and you then use silicon to seal the ring to the unit. You MUST do something to glue this so that it seals properly, otherwise you just blow the smoke into your cabinet that the unit mounts to, which is back into your house.Your exhaust pipe then fits VERY loosely onto the top of this plastic ring. You must then wrap metal duct tape around this junction to seal it. Do NOT use the gray fabric duct tape, as it will just dry up and crack from the heat, or fall off from the grease. Since this adaptor ring sits slightly down in the hole in the bottom of your cabinet, as my cabinet has 1.5-inches from the bottom of the sides, you must make your hole through the cabinet big enough (I made mine 7-inch diameter) to be able to fight the sticky tape to get your fingers down low enough to press the tape to both the plastic adaptor ring and your metal exhaust pipe.It really seems like this plastic adaptor was a complete afterthought. I think the manufacturer made the assumption that all kitchen cabinets have a flat bottom, all the way across, but mine has the bottom about 1.5-inches up from the bottom of the side edges, so that I was able to use a 2x4 as the supporting block and it filled in the area between the bottom and the side edges of the cabinet perfectly.It seems to have good suction, but it takes some adapting to mount it properly, and the light will never be adequate.

Great quality and suction, but remember the installation need a bit lower, if you have a microwave/range hood combination before, the bottom of the microwave should be about the same high of this traditional hood’s high for better performance